Things to do in Campania
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Taverna Anema e Core
Lying beyond a humble exterior is one of the island’s most famous nightspots, Taverna Anema e Core, run by the charismatic Guido Lembo. This smooth and sophisticated bar-cum-nightclub attracts an appealing mixture of super chic and casually dressed punters, here for the relaxed atmosphere and regular live music, including unwaveringly authentic Neapolitan guitar strumming and singing.
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Tarallificio Esposito
Made with pepper, almonds and pork fat, oven-baked taralli mandorlati (savoury almond biscuits) are dangerously addictive and readily available at this heirloom Sanità bakery. But don't stop at the classic, with moreish variations including buttery taralli (crunchy, ring-shaped biscuits) with friarielli (Neapolitan broccoletti), olio (olive oil) and lemon glaze. For a more substantial feed, fill up on the scrumptious focaccia.
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T293
Sneaky T293 is a fantastic surprise for lovers of contemporary art. Hidden away up an anonymous stairwell, it has a knack for thought-provoking shows which feature some of the world's most exciting artists (think Henrik Olai Kaarstein, Damien Roach and Martin Soto Climent). Check the website for current exhibition details.
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Stinga
Well worth seeking out, this place sells distinctive inlaid-wood items made in Sorrento by the same family of craftsmen (and women) for three generations. The pieces are highly original, especially in their use of colour and design, which is often mosaic or geometric. Fine jewellery, including coral pieces, is also on display, made by family member, Amulè.
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Sorrento Cooking School
You can opt for a serious culinary vacation here or one of their popular four-hour classes (€60) learning to make such Italian staples as pizza, ravioli and tiramisu (okay, more a sin than a staple) in a beautiful spot, surrounded by lemon trees. The class ends with a meal of the goodies prepared, accompanied by local wine.
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Sedile Dominava
Incongruously wedged between racks of lemon-themed souvenir merchandise, this 15th-century domed palazzo has exquisite, albeit faded, original frescoes. Crowned by a cupola, the terrace, open to the street on two sides, was originally a meeting point for the town’s medieval aristocracy; today it houses a workingmen’s club where local pensioners sit around playing cards, providing a not-to-be-missed photo opportunity.
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Scriptura
Family-run Scriptura crafts beautiful, soft leather goods using top-shelf Tuscan leather. Its range includes handbags, satchels, wallets, belts and leather-bound notebooks, with styles and colours covering both the classic and the contemporary. Best of all, prices are reasonable, with bags starting from €36 and wallets from €30.
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Scaglione Renato
This small jewellery shop has a small but sparkling range of exquisite jewellery, incorporating turquoise, amethyst, amber and coral. Prices are slightly lower than the glitzier options on nearby Via Roma.
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Sant’Anna Institute Sorrento Lingue
There is something very appealing about rattling off your shopping list in faultless Italian. This is one of the longest-established language schools on the Amalfi Coast, attracting students from all over the globe. Prices start at €198 for one week of tuition, plus a €75 enrollment fee.
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Sant’Andrea
There’s an earthy southern Italian atmosphere here, with its outside terrace surrounded by historic houses decorated with washing hung out to dry. Choices are more innovative than you would expect and include seafood dishes, such as squid with porcini mushrooms or cuttlefish accompanied by creamed vegetables. The white-truffle ice cream makes a sexy, sweet finale. The owners run the adjacent B&B.
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Santa Maria della Pietà
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Santa Maria a Cetrella
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Santa Margherita Vecchia
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Salvatore Malinconico
Young designer Salvatore Malinconico transforms old threads and vintage fabrics into edgy, architecturally inspired frocks and jackets. Choose from a small selection of ready-to-wear creations – think slinky black cocktail dresses pimped with coloured side panels – or let Salvatore sew-up something fabulous from scratch. A dress can take as little as three hours to create, but ring ahead for an appointment.
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Ruins of Paestum
If you are visiting in springtime, the temples are particularly stunning, surrounded by meadows of colourful wildflowers. Entering from the main entrance on the northern end, the first structure to take your breath away is the 6th-century-BC Tempio di Cerere (Temple of Ceres). Originally dedicated to Athena, it served as a Christian church in medieval times.
As you head south, you can pick out the basic outline of the large rectangular forum, the heart of the ancient city. Among the partially standing buildings are the vast domestic housing area and, further south, the amphitheatre; both provide evocative glimpses of daily life here in Roman times.
The Tempio di Nettuno …
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Ruins of Herculaneum
Unfairly upstaged by Pompeii's ancient offerings, the Ruins of Herculaneum have a wealth of archaeological finds, from ancient advertisements and stylish mosaics, to carbonised furniture and terror-struck skeletons. Indeed, this superbly conserved Roman fishing town of 4000 inhabitants is smaller and easier to navigate than Pompeii, and can be explored with a map and audioguide (€6.50, €10 for two).
From the site's main gateway on Corso Resina, head down the wide boulevard, where you'll find the ticket office on the left. Pick up a free map and guide booklet here, and then follow the boulevard right to the actual entrance into the ruins themselves.
Herculaneum's fate…
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Ristorantino dell'Avvocato
This elegant-yet-welcoming restaurant has quickly won the respect of Neapolitan gastronomes. Apple of their eye is affable head chef and owner Raffaele Cardillo, whose passion for his region's culinary heritage merges with a knack for subtle, refreshing twists – think gnocchi with fresh mussels, clams, crumbed pistachio, lemon, ginger and garlic.
The degustation menu is good value, while the vino-versed staff will happily guide you towards the perfect Italian drop. Book ahead Thursday to Saturday.
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Ristorante il Saraceno d’Oro
There is something so typically Italian about the setup of this restaurant, where waiters have to dash to and fro across the road with their dishes. But in the evening the traffic is light and the wacky layout will only add to the delight of eating here. The pizza and pasta choices are good; the contorni (vegetables) excellent. Splurge on the legendary profiteroles in chocolate sauce for dessert.
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Riccardo Dalisi Studio
A visit to the Riccardo Dalisi’s studio is a wonderful experience, its collection of rooms packed to the rafters with charismatic prototypes, works-in-progress and roll upon roll of Dalisi’s own paintings and illustrations (Dalisi uses only recycled paper). The gentle maestro also offers free three-, four- or five-day workshops (book a week ahead), though it’s worth considering that Dalisi does not speak English. And while all visitors are welcome at the studio, don’t forget to call ahead and book a time with Dalisi’s assistant, Carla Rabuffetti, first.
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Refood
The postmodern decor with its imaginative lighting, steel exposed pipes and lozenge-coloured seating, is a far cry from Sorrento’s traditional trattorias. Go for one of the specialties like large tube pasta in a fish stew or a classic chateaubriand.
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Pop Gallery
Grown weary of the ubiquitous lemon motif? Then this cutting-edge showroom will delight and inspire with its modern sculptures and objets d’art by Italian artists. The faux abalone pieces are particularly ingenious, as are the sculpted heads with their bad-hair-day sea-sponge bouffant hairdos in vivid colours sculpted by Paolo Sandulli. You can also visit his workshop in Praiano.
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Penitenziari di Grazia
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Pasticceria Romolo
Across from the train station, this sprawling pasticceria dates from 1966 and the decor has changed little since. The cakes are similarly legendary in this town, with a mouth-watering display that includes frollini (fruit and chocolate tarts), amaretti (macaroons) and that all-time irresistible treat sfogliatelle (a flaky pastry cake filled with fresh ricotta). Fancy chocolates and a wide range of local and national wine are also on sale.
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Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte
This colossal palace took more than a century to build. Originally planned as a hunting lodge for Charles VII of Bourbon, the king's plans just kept getting grander. By its completion in 1759, Naples had a new palazzo. Official residence of Joseph Bonaparte and Joachim Murat during the decade of French rule (1806–15), it's now home to the Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte and its superlative art collection.
With much of the collection inherited by Charles from his mother Elisabetta Farnese, the museum's extensive booty is spread over three floors and 160 rooms. The 1st floor is dominated by the Galleria Farnese and the Appartamento Reale (Royal Apartment); the 2nd floor…
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Palazzo Petrucci
Progressive Petrucci is a breath of fresh air, exciting palates with mostly successful new-school creations like raw prawn and mozzarella 'lasagne' or poached-egg onion soup. Knowledgeable, polished service and a fine-dining air make it a perfect spot to celebrate something special. For an inspired culinary journey, opt for the good-value degustation menu.
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