Head to the upstairs terrace with its flower-filled trellises, traditional tiles and trailing grape vines and you seem a thousand miles away from the pedestrian-choked alleyways outside. With a well-deserved local reputation as being the finest restaurant in town, the menu is mainly traditional, with homemade pasta and a daily fresh fish dish, cooked in salt. There are vegetarian and gluten-free menus, plus a resident mandolin player to ensure a little romance is never too far away.