Shopping in Campania
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Eddy Monetti Men's Store
The menswear branch of Eddy Monetti is an elegant den of Burberry blazers, Ralph Lauren shirts and irresistible cashmere sweaters. The vibe is monied and the service suitably snooty.
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Mercato di Pugliano
Fashion fans shouldn’t miss Italy’s largest pre-loved clothing market, which straddles Via Pugliano in the heart of Ercolano. Everyone from local teens to serious Tokyo stylists dives into the op-shops lining the street, where stock-standard junk mixes it with fabulous offbeat finds (killer cocktail dresses, vinyl LP handbags and the odd military jacket). One of the best outlets is Old Star; ask politely and you may be shown the rare stock upstairs. There’s a number of cheap bakeries and food outlets along the strip, while the surrounding streets are awash with fresh produce stalls, fishmongers and suburban Neapolitan life at its cacophonous best.
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Medea
If you're after something ceramic but are fed up with the ubiquitous range of gaudy yellow fruit bowls, then look no further. At this gallery-cum-laboratory-cum-shop, you'll find an interesting selection of original handmade vases, lamps, animals, figurines, plates and tiles. Particularly outstanding are the huge red and black vases by ceramic artist Ugo Marano. And if you're wondering, yes, they cost a bomb - for a life-sized vase expect to fork out in the region of around €12000.
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La Pignasecca
Naples’ oldest street market is a multisensory escapade into a world of wriggling seafood, drool-worthy delis and clued-up casalinghe (housewives) on the hunt for filthy-fresh produce. Shop for local cheeses and vino at Antiche Delizie, scoff down fabulous street food at Friggitoria Fiorenzano, then scour the streetside stalls for everything from discounted perfume and linen to Neapolitan hip-hop CDs and fake designer bags and threads.
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La Scarabattola
Not only have La Scarabattola’s handmade sculptures of magi (wise men), devils and Neapolitan folk figures featured in top exhibitions, they have some seriously VIP fans, including the Spanish royal family. Figurines aside, its line of sleek, contemporary ceramic creations (think Pulcinella-inspired placecard holders) makes for some urbane souvenirs. Best of all, you can even visit its nearby workshop to watch the masters in action.
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La Parissienne
First opened in 1906 (yes, that is not a misprint!), and best known for introducing Capri pants in the 1960s, famously worn by Jacqueline Onassis, who bought them from here – La Parissienne can run you up a made-to-measure pair within a day. Apparently Clark Gable was another Hollywood star who favoured the fashions here, particularly the Bermuda shorts, which (believe it or not) were considered quite raffish in their day.
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Ischia Sapori
This savvy little produce shop is the home of rucolino, a local, liquorice-flavoured digestive made with rucola (rocket). The recipe is a guarded secret, but the liquid is yours for the taking. The shop also sells its own wines, gourmet food stuffs, limoncello-soaked babà, olive-oil soaps, and fragrances, all reasonably priced and gorgeously packaged with trademark Italian flair.
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Imagaenaria
Charming and erudite, this little bookshop is also a local publishing house that prints a fetching series of mini-books dedicated to Ischian folklore, culture, history and nature in Italian. The shop also sells rare prints and lithographs of Ischia and Naples at a range of prices. The most expensive date back to the 1600s. Open until 21:00 in winter and 01:00 in summer for some serious late-night shopping.
reviewed
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Elia’s Vintage
Revamp your rack at this eccentric fashion bolt-hole, where vintage threads and accessories mix it with boho-chic one-offs designed and hand-sewn by Angela and her costume designer sister-in-law, Antonella. Expect anything from lusciously knitted scarves to ruffled felt necklaces and bags made from rockabilly beer caps. Even the jewellery pouches are whipped up using vintage fabric scraps.
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Talarico
Mario Talarico and his nephews have turned the humble umbrella into a work of art. Sought after by international heads of state, each piece is a one-off, complete with mother-of-pearl buttons, a horn tip and a handle made from a single tree branch. While top-of-the-range pieces can fetch up to €300, there are more-affordable options that will keep the budget-conscious singing in the rain.
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Antica Macelleria di Francesco Esposito
For a perfect picnic hamper head to this century-old deli. Drop in from 08:00 for fresh mozzarella and wood-fired casareccio bread. Fill the latter with a lip-smacking choice of cheeses, prosciutti, homemade peperoncino (chilli) salami and marinated peppers. Then wash it all down with a bottle of falanghina (dry white wine). Meraviglioso! (Marvellous!).
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L'Isoletto
Stock up on a mouthwatering selection of local produce, from spicy peperoncino (chilli), rum-soaked babà and lemon-cream cannoncelli (pastry filled with lemon cream) to Ischian vino and the ubiquitous limoncello. Less tasteful - but equally delicious - is a collection of kitsch tourist tack, from seashell placemats to 3-D souvenir wall plates.
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Mercato di Porta Nolana
Naples at its vociferous, gut-rumbling best, the Mercato di Porta Nolana is a heady street market where bellowing fishmongers and green grocers collide with fragrant delis and bakeries, industrious Chinese traders and contraband cigarette stalls. Dive in for anything from buxom tomatoes and mozzarella to golden-fried street snacks, cheap luggage and bootleg CDs.
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Riccio Calzature
Italian footwear sans the designer price tag. Men's, women's, formal and sporty, last season's stock is slashed by up to 50%. Fashion victims needn't fret. New-season stock is also available, at new-season prices. The choice isn't huge but definitely worth a browse, with names such as Diesel, Richmond, Miss Sixty and Cesare Paciotti in the mix.
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Profumi della Costiera
The limoncello produced and sold here is made with local lemons (known to experts as sfusato amalfitano) according to traditional recipes, so no preservatives and no colouring. And it's not just the owners who say so - all bottles carry the IGP (Indicazione Geografica Proteta; Protected Geographical Indication) quality mark.
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Interfood
This little enoteca (wine bar) in Santa Lucia stocks mainly Campanian vino, a rising star on the Italian wine scene. Among the better producers, look for Cantina del Taburno or Ocone or D'Ambra for reds, and Falanghina or Coda de Volpe for whites. Good deals include three bottles of reasonable wine for €15.00 or less.
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Judith Major
Exclusive stockist of Italian label Brunello Cucinelli, the look here is Polo Ralph Lauren with a sexy Italian twist. Cashmere sweaters, suave shirts, blazers and chic womenswear. Shoes include Prada, Barrett and Alberto Guardiani for men and Stuart Weitzman and Pedro Garcia for women. Everything you'll need for a jaunt on the yacht.
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Adam
Looking for a Renaissance pistol? Pick one up at this offbeat ode to all things vintage Italian. It's all here, from antique Ischian urns and handmade Punchinello dolls to shining armour (knight not included). Take a detour through the leafy back garden, complete with giant lemons, sleepy turtles and one very determined pussycat.
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L'Angolo a Due Ruote
You'll be stopping traffic with a motorbike helmet from this little shop - choose from lurid Hawaiian-style prints in hot pink and orange and graffiti-art styles in electric blues and lime. Brands include AGV, Suomy and Shark, and there's a modest range of hot Euro riding gear to keep all (drivers') eyes on you.
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La Pignasecca
In the lively Quartieri Spagnoli, La Pignasecca is Naples’ oldest street market. A multisensory escapade into a world of wriggling seafood, drool-worthy delis and clued-up casalinghe (homemakers), it’s a great place to soak up Naples’ trademark street life and pick up a few bargains.
reviewed
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Tabaccheria Sisimbro
This temple to tobacco stocks hard-to-find cigarettes (including Dunhill, Dupont and Cartier varieties) as well as decadent Cuban cigars, which are maintained at optimum temperature in a special humidified walk-in room. A range of Italian pipes, cigar cutters, lighters and ashtrays complete the smoky picture.
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OK-KO Research
Ironic hipsters shop here for Andy Warhol light boxes, lurid plastic chairs, Dutch designer clocks, chill-out compilation CDs and fluoro-coloured handbags in the shape of watering cans. The counter doubles as a deck for the in-house DJ and aperitivo (aperitif) is served upstairs in the winter.
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Culti Spacafé
This uber-chic lifestyle temple features Japanese-style homewares, signature beauty products, a fashionable florist, a sassy restaurant/bar and a fabulous day spa complete with glam hammam (communal bath house). Shop for silk slippers, sip a Campari, then get horizontal for a spot of shiatsu.
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Bowinkel
The city’s finest vintage prints, photographs, watercolour paintings and classic frames. If you can’t find what you’re looking for here, check out its sister branch at Piazza dei Martiri 24 ([tel] 081 764 43 44). Erudite owner Umberto speaks a smattering of English and will arrange shipments abroad.
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Tramontano
With fans including Woody Allen, Tramontano has an epic rep for exquisitely crafted Neapolitan leather goods, from butter-soft wallets to glam handbags and preppy-cool satchels. Famously at Christmas, a new model bag is released, inspired by a classic song…such as Patti Smith’s ‘Kimberley’.
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