Things to do in Salerno
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Cathedral
The highlight of the centro storico is the impressive cathedral. Built by the Normans under Robert Guiscard in the 11th century and remodelled in the 18th century, it sustained severe damage in the 1980 earthquake. It’s dedicated to San Matteo (St Matthew), whose remains were reputedly brought to the city in 954 and now lie beneath the main altar in the vaulted crypt. In the right-hand apse, the Cappella delle Crociate (Chapel of the Crusades) was so named because crusaders’ weapons were blessed here. Under the altar stands the tomb of the 11th-century pope Gregory VII.
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Castello di Arechi
Overlooking Salerno, the forbidding Castello di Arechi is spectacularly positioned 263m above the city. Originally a Byzantine fort, it was built by the Lombard duke of Benevento, Arechi II, in the 8th century and subsequently modified by the Normans and Aragonese. Today it houses a permanent collection of ceramics, arms and coins. To get there take bus 19 from Piazza XXIV Maggio in the city centre.
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Pizza Margherita
It might look like a bland canteen but this is one of Salerno’s favourite lunch spots. On any given day, the lavish lunchtime buffet might include mozzarella, mussels in various guises, and a range of salads. The daily lunchtime menu (pasta, main course, salad and half a litre of water) is chalked up on a blackboard, and there’s also the regular menu of pizzas, pastas and mains.
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D
Ristorante Santa Lucia
This is one of the best eateries on trendy Via Roma, good for delicious seafood and bubbling wood-fired pizzas. Expect classic dishes such as linguine ai frutti di mare (flat spaghetti with seafood) and chargrilled cuttlefish, both of which are superb. The laid-back atmosphere and friendly service add to the pleasure.
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E
Pinocchio
Join the locals for heaping plates of no-nonsense regional grub. Seafood is the speciality, but there’s also a selection of decent meats, including sausages and scaloppine (breaded veal) in a creamy mushroom sauce. In summer, tables are set outside.
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Museo Archeologico Provinciale
To the south of the cathedral, the Museo Archeologico Provinciale was, at the time of writing, closed for restoration. It contains archaeological finds from around the region, including a 1st-century-BC bronze head of Apollo.
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Museo Pinacoteca Provinciale
In the heart of the medieval quarter, the Museo Pinacoteca Provinciale houses a small but interesting art collection dating from the Renaissance right up to the first half of the 19th century.
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