Things to do in Procida
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Ristorante Scarabeo
Behind a veritable jungle of lemon trees lies the venerable kitchen of Signora Battinelli. With husband Francesco, she whips up classics like fritelle di basilico (fried patties of bread, egg, Parmesan and basil) and home-made aubergine-and- provola ravioli. They breed their own rabbits, make their own falanghina (a light, fruit-forward white wine) and it’s all yours to devour under a pergola of bulbous lemons.
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La Conchiglia
Topaz waves at your feet, pastel Corricella in the distance – this is what you come to Procida for. Up against the views, the food holds its own with dishes such as spaghetti alla povera (spaghetti with peperoncino, green peppers, cherry tomatoes and anchovies). To get here, take the steep steps down from Via Pizzaco or book a boat from Corricella.
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Procession of the Misteri
Good Friday sees a colourful Procession of the Misteri. A wooden statue of Christ and the Madonna Addolorata, along with life-sized tableaux of plaster and papier-mâché illustrating events leading to Christ's crucifixion, are carted across the island. Men dress in blue tunics with white hoods, while many of the young girls dress as the Madonna.
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Graziella
Along this unpretentious marina, with its old fishing boats, piles of fishing nets and sleek, lazy cats, any restaurant will provide you with a memorable dining experience. Choices include sandwiches and burgers, spicy penne alla siciliana (pasta with a spicy tomato and chilli sauce) and juicy grilled chicken with sweet-chilli sauce.
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Fammivento
Get things going with the alici ripiene (stuffed anchovies), then try the fusilli carciofi e calamari (pasta with artichokes and calamari). For a splurge, go for the zuppa di crostaci e moluschi (crustacean and mollusc soup). It ain't the house speciality for nada.
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Da Giorgio
These folks try hard to please with a reasonable menu, welcoming window boxes and inexpensive beer. The menu holds few surprises, but the ingredients are fresh, zesty and flavourful in classics like gnocchi alla sorrentina (gnocchi baked in tomato sauce with mozzarella).
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Gorgona
Along unpretentious Marina Corricella, with its old fishing boats, piles of fishing nets and sleek, lazy cats, any restaurant will provide you with a memorable experience. That said, this place peddles particularly fine smoked-seafood dishes, including swordfish and tuna steaks.
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GM Bar
People flock to Procida for peace, so don't come expecting a wild time. Marina Grande has a few low-key options. GM Bar features live jazz, latin or local pop acts on Friday night, and DJ-spun commercial/house and commercial/Latin on Saturday and Sunday night respectively.
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Ristorante L'Approdo
Preened navy cadets flock here for home-style cooking. Dive into a spicy bowl of penne alla siciliana or slurp your way through the zuppa di pesce (fish stew). When you're done, sit back and watch the boats dock.
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Procida Diving Centre
The Procida Diving Centre runs diving courses and hires out equipment. The price ranges from €45 for a single dive to €130 for a snorkelling course, with more advanced open-water diving also on offer.
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Bar Cavaliere
Procida's prime pastry peddler will leave you a drooling mess. All the rage is the lingua di bue (ox tongue), flaky pastry shaped like a tongue and filled with crema pasticcera (custard).
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Castello d'Avalos
Clinging onto Procida's highest point is the crumbling 16th-century Castello d'Avalos, former Bourbon hunting lodge and ex-prison. You can soak in the dizzying bay views from here.
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Abbazia di San Michele Arcangelo
The Abbazia di San Michele Arcangelo, a one-time Benedictine abbey, contains a church, a small museum with some arresting paintings, and a honeycomb of catacombs.
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Boat Trips
On the harbour at Marina Corricella, ask for Cesare, who runs boat trips (€20 per 2½ hours) and half-day trips in a galleon for around €90 (minimum 25 people).
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Sisters
Go Med with the hand-painted ceramic jugs, platters, coasters, lemon squeezers and seriously dishy coffee cups. The vintage island photographs make for soulful souvenirs.
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Il Vento del Cinema
Il Vento del Cinema is an annual five-day festival of arthouse cinema and English-language workshops run by prolific film makers. See the website for festival dates.
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Lido di Procida beach
Head to the heaving Lido di Procida beach, where hyperactive water babies, flirting church-group teens and wandering-eyed husbands make for a voyeuristic feast.
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Spiaggia di Chiaia
Off Via Pizzaco, a steep flight of steps leads down to sand-brushed Spiaggia di Chiaia, one of the island's most beautiful beaches and home to La Conchiglia.
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Enoteca Peccati di Gola
Provocatively called 'Sins of the Throat', this slick little bottle shop stocks the best of Campanian vino and a smattering of other Italian drops.
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Marina di Chiaiolella
All pink, white and blue, little Marina di Chiaiolella features a yacht-stocked marina, old-school eateries and a languid disposition.
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Luigi Nappa Gallery
Nappa's paintings are fresh and contemporary with a Procidan theme, his sculpture and jewellery offbeat and original.
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Ippocampo
Ippocampo hires out gommoni and gozzi (wooden boats)from around €80 per day.
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Blue Dream
You can charter a yacht from Blue Dream from €70 per person per day.
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Bar Roma
Further up the street, wood decking, potted palms and chill-out tunes set the scene for languid people-watching at Bar Roma .
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