With its dripping chandeliers, Bacharach melodies and breathtakingly gracious service, the President feels like a private dining room in an Audrey Hepburn film. Conducting the charm is owner Paolo Gramaglia, whose passion for local produce is only matched by the menu's creative brilliance, best savoured with a degusation menu (€40 to €70).

Let your tastebuds swoon over wonders like aubergine millefoglie with Cetara anchovies, mozzarella filante (melted mozzarella) and grated tarallo biscuit presented like a wrapped-up caramella (lolly). A word of warning: if you plan on catching a treno regionale (regional train) back to Naples from nearby Pompei station (a closer, more convenient option than the Pompei Scavi - Villa dei Misteri station on the Circumvesuviana train line), check train times on www.trenitalia.com first as the last service from Pompei can depart as early as 9.40pm.