Lonely Planet review
One of Naples' finest examples of Renaissance architecture, this 16th-century church actually sports the 15th-century, Giuseppe Valeriani–designed facade of Palazzo Sanseverino, converted to create the church. Inside, it's a baroque affair, with greats like Francesco Solimena, Luca Giordano and Cosimo Fanzago transforming the barrel-vaulted interior into the frescoed wonder that you see today.
Countering the opulence is a small chapel dedicated to the much-loved local saint Giuseppe Moscati (1880–1927), a good doc who served the city's poor. Here walls heave with ex-votos (including golden syringes) and a recreation of the great man's study, complete with the armchair in which he died.
The church lies on the northern side of the beautiful Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, a favourite late-night hang-out for students and lefties. At its centre soars Giuseppe Genuino's lavish Guglia dell'Immacolata , built between 1747 and 1750. On 8 December, the feast of the Immacolata, firemen scramble up to the top to place a wreath of flowers at the Virgin Mary's feet.