Basilica di Santa Chiara
Piazza del Gesù Nuovo
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Lonely Planet review
Vast, Gothic and cleverly deceptive, this mighty basilica is actually a 20th-century recreation of Gagliardo Primario's 14th-century original, severely damaged in World War II. The pièce de résistance, however, is the basilica's adjoining cloisters , lavished with wonderfully colourful 17th-century majolica tiles and frescoes.
While the Angevin porticoes date back to the 14th century, the cloisters took on their current look in the 18th century thanks to the landscaping work of Domenico Antonio Vaccaro. The walkways that divide the central garden of lavender and citrus trees are lined with 72 ceramic-tiled octagonal columns connected by benches. Painted by Donato e Giuseppe Massa, the colourful tiles depict various rural scenes, from hunting to vignettes of peasant life. The four internal walls are covered with softly coloured 17th-century frescoes of Franciscan tales.
Adjacent to the cloisters, a small and elegant museum of mostly ecclesiastical props also features the excavated ruins of a 1st-century spa complex, including a remarkably well-preserved laconicum (sauna).
Commissioned by Robert of Anjou for his wife Sancia di Maiorca, the monastic complex was built to house 200 monks and the tombs of the Angevin royal family. Dissed as a 'stable' by Robert's ungrateful son Charles of Anjou, the basilica itself received a luscious baroque makeover by Domenico Antonio Vaccaro, Gaetano Buonocore and Giovanni Del Gaizo in the 18th century before taking a direct hit during an Allied air raid on 4 August 1943. Its reconstruction was completed in 1953. Features that did survive the fire include part of a 14th-century fresco to the left of the main door and a chapel containing the tombs of the Bourbon kings from Ferdinand I to Francesco II.