Orto Botanico

Slap-bang on gridlocked Via Forio, Naples' botanical garden has its work cut out for it. Yet, in spite of the fumes, the vegetation stands tall, lush and utterly inviting.

Founded by Joseph Bonaparte between 1807 and 1819, the gardens belong to Naples University, hence the need to request a look. But it's worth asking nicely - if for no other reason than to stretch out under a So-Cal palm and breathe away that road-rage stress.

Dedicated botanists will be impressed with an oxygen-rich collection of plants from the major American, African, Asian and Australian deserts, an arboreal fern section and an ancient citrus orchard.