Chiesa Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio ad Arco

Guarded by three bronze skulls, this 17th-century church is macabre. Inside, two winged skulls adorn either side of the main altar. Built by a congregation dedicated to praying for souls in purgatory, the church became a centre for the Neapolitan cult of the dead which, although officially banned, is said to be far from extinct. Cult practices included lavishing care and gifts on a skull as a means of keeping in touch with an absent loved one.

Below the church in the hypogeum (currently closed) you can still see a dusty hoard of skulls and bones.

On a lighter note, the church boasts some fine paintings by Massimo Stanzione and Luca Giordano.