Piazza dei Martiri

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    bus: C25 to Piazza dei Martiri

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Lonely Planet review

If Chiaia is Naples' drawing room, then Piazza dei Martiri is its sultry chaise longue. Anyone worth their Gucci shades heads here for caffè and languid outdoor lounging. Get a crash course in both at squareside café La Caffettiera.

Taking centre stage on the square is Enrico Alvino's 19th-century monument to Neapolitan martyrs, with four lions representing the anti-Bourbon uprisings of 1799, 1820, 1848 and 1860.

On the western flank of the square, at No 58, Palazzo Partanna is a neoclassical update of an original 18th-century edifice, while at No 30, Palazzo Calabritto is a Luigi Vanvitelli creation.

Culture of a readable nature is on hand at Feltrinelli, Naples' best bookshop, in the northeastern corner of the square.