Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte

Lonely Planet review

Believe it or not, this colossal peachy pad was meant to be a hunting lodge. At least that's what Charles VII of Bourbon had asked for when construction began in 1738. But it seems that size really did matter to the king, whose plans for the place kept getting grander and grander. By 1759, the city had a new palace. Just as well, really, for when Charles inherited his mother Elisabetta Farnese's hefty art collection, space was at a premium.

During the decade of French rule (1806-15) the palace became the official residence of Joseph Bonaparte and Joachim Murat. The history of the museum proper resumed in 1860 when a Galleria d'Arte Moderna was established. Today, the palace boasts one of the best and most extensive art collections in Italy.

The museum is spread over three floors and 160 rooms. The 1st floor is dominated by the Galleria Farnese and the Appartamento Reale (Royal Apartment); the 2nd floor contains the Galleria delle Arti a Napoli; while the top floor is dedicated to modern art. Before you embark on the museum, consider forking out for an audioguide - the English and Italian commentary is interesting.

To do the whole museum in one day is impossible - you'd need at least two to start getting to grips with the place. For most people, though, a full morning is sufficient for a shortened best-of tour.