Other shopping in Naples
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Mercato di Pugliano
Fashion fans shouldn’t miss Italy’s largest pre-loved clothing market, which straddles Via Pugliano in the heart of Ercolano. Everyone from local teens to serious Tokyo stylists dives into the op-shops lining the street, where stock-standard junk mixes it with fabulous offbeat finds (killer cocktail dresses, vinyl LP handbags and the odd military jacket). One of the best outlets is Old Star; ask politely and you may be shown the rare stock upstairs. There’s a number of cheap bakeries and food outlets along the strip, while the surrounding streets are awash with fresh produce stalls, fishmongers and suburban Neapolitan life at its cacophonous best.
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A
La Pignasecca
Naples’ oldest street market is a multisensory escapade into a world of wriggling seafood, drool-worthy delis and clued-up casalinghe (housewives) on the hunt for filthy-fresh produce. Shop for local cheeses and vino at Antiche Delizie, scoff down fabulous street food at Friggitoria Fiorenzano, then scour the streetside stalls for everything from discounted perfume and linen to Neapolitan hip-hop CDs and fake designer bags and threads.
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B
La Scarabattola
Not only have La Scarabattola’s handmade sculptures of magi (wise men), devils and Neapolitan folk figures featured in top exhibitions, they have some seriously VIP fans, including the Spanish royal family. Figurines aside, its line of sleek, contemporary ceramic creations (think Pulcinella-inspired placecard holders) makes for some urbane souvenirs. Best of all, you can even visit its nearby workshop to watch the masters in action.
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Elia’s Vintage
Revamp your rack at this eccentric fashion bolt-hole, where vintage threads and accessories mix it with boho-chic one-offs designed and hand-sewn by Angela and her costume designer sister-in-law, Antonella. Expect anything from lusciously knitted scarves to ruffled felt necklaces and bags made from rockabilly beer caps. Even the jewellery pouches are whipped up using vintage fabric scraps.
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C
Mercato di Porta Nolana
Naples at its vociferous, gut-rumbling best, the Mercato di Porta Nolana is a heady street market where bellowing fishmongers and green grocers collide with fragrant delis and bakeries, industrious Chinese traders and contraband cigarette stalls. Dive in for anything from buxom tomatoes and mozzarella to golden-fried street snacks, cheap luggage and bootleg CDs.
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D
La Pignasecca
In the lively Quartieri Spagnoli, La Pignasecca is Naples’ oldest street market. A multisensory escapade into a world of wriggling seafood, drool-worthy delis and clued-up casalinghe (homemakers), it’s a great place to soak up Naples’ trademark street life and pick up a few bargains.
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E
Tramontano
With fans including Woody Allen, Tramontano has an epic rep for exquisitely crafted Neapolitan leather goods, from butter-soft wallets to glam handbags and preppy-cool satchels. Famously at Christmas, a new model bag is released, inspired by a classic song…such as Patti Smith’s ‘Kimberley’.
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F
La Duchessa
Gritty, multiethnic and obscenely cheap; head here for bargain denim, shoes, knickers, make-up and bootleg DVDs. Serious music buffs head in early to hunt for original, recent-release CDs and the odd hard-to-find special edition for as little as €3.
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Mercatino di Posillipo
Not the cheapest market, but the best for quality goods. Top buys include genuine designer labels (although the D&G and Louis Vuitton bags are fakes), women’s swimwear, underwear and linen. It’s only the African vendors who don’t mind a haggle.
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Mercato di Poggioreale
Set in the city’s old slaughterhouse, this hugely popular market has 40 shoe stalls alone selling designer overstock and no-frills everyday brands. Equally fab are the cheap casual wear, suits, colourful rolls of fabrics and kitchenware.
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G
Napolimania
This offbeat shrine to local pop culture is the place for plastic Totò statues, Neapolitan ‘survival kits’, and jocks and tops with witty local slang.
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H
Fiera Antiquaria Napoletana
This waterfront antiques market sells vintage silverware, jewellery, furniture, paintings, prints and wonderful, overpriced junk.
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Cartolibreria '900
Cartolibreria ’900 stocks great books and information on the area and has internet access (€0.60 per hr).
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Feltrinelli
Smart chain store with a good selection of maps, fiction and Lonely Planet titles in English.
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