Shopping in Naples
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Mercato di Pugliano
Fashion fans shouldn’t miss Italy’s largest pre-loved clothing market, which straddles Via Pugliano in the heart of Ercolano. Everyone from local teens to serious Tokyo stylists dives into the op-shops lining the street, where stock-standard junk mixes it with fabulous offbeat finds (killer cocktail dresses, vinyl LP handbags and the odd military jacket). One of the best outlets is Old Star; ask politely and you may be shown the rare stock upstairs. There’s a number of cheap bakeries and food outlets along the strip, while the surrounding streets are awash with fresh produce stalls, fishmongers and suburban Neapolitan life at its cacophonous best.
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La Pignasecca
Naples’ oldest street market is a multisensory escapade into a world of wriggling seafood, drool-worthy delis and clued-up casalinghe (housewives) on the hunt for filthy-fresh produce. Shop for local cheeses and vino at Antiche Delizie, scoff down fabulous street food at Friggitoria Fiorenzano, then scour the streetside stalls for everything from discounted perfume and linen to Neapolitan hip-hop CDs and fake designer bags and threads.
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La Scarabattola
Not only have La Scarabattola’s handmade sculptures of magi (wise men), devils and Neapolitan folk figures featured in top exhibitions, they have some seriously VIP fans, including the Spanish royal family. Figurines aside, its line of sleek, contemporary ceramic creations (think Pulcinella-inspired placecard holders) makes for some urbane souvenirs. Best of all, you can even visit its nearby workshop to watch the masters in action.
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Elia’s Vintage
Revamp your rack at this eccentric fashion bolt-hole, where vintage threads and accessories mix it with boho-chic one-offs designed and hand-sewn by Angela and her costume designer sister-in-law, Antonella. Expect anything from lusciously knitted scarves to ruffled felt necklaces and bags made from rockabilly beer caps. Even the jewellery pouches are whipped up using vintage fabric scraps.
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Talarico
Mario Talarico and his nephews have turned the humble umbrella into a work of art. Sought after by international heads of state, each piece is a one-off, complete with mother-of-pearl buttons, a horn tip and a handle made from a single tree branch. While top-of-the-range pieces can fetch up to €300, there are more-affordable options that will keep the budget-conscious singing in the rain.
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Mercato di Porta Nolana
Naples at its vociferous, gut-rumbling best, the Mercato di Porta Nolana is a heady street market where bellowing fishmongers and green grocers collide with fragrant delis and bakeries, industrious Chinese traders and contraband cigarette stalls. Dive in for anything from buxom tomatoes and mozzarella to golden-fried street snacks, cheap luggage and bootleg CDs.
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Interfood
This little enoteca (wine bar) in Santa Lucia stocks mainly Campanian vino, a rising star on the Italian wine scene. Among the better producers, look for Cantina del Taburno or Ocone or D'Ambra for reds, and Falanghina or Coda de Volpe for whites. Good deals include three bottles of reasonable wine for €15.00 or less.
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L'Angolo a Due Ruote
You'll be stopping traffic with a motorbike helmet from this little shop - choose from lurid Hawaiian-style prints in hot pink and orange and graffiti-art styles in electric blues and lime. Brands include AGV, Suomy and Shark, and there's a modest range of hot Euro riding gear to keep all (drivers') eyes on you.
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La Pignasecca
In the lively Quartieri Spagnoli, La Pignasecca is Naples’ oldest street market. A multisensory escapade into a world of wriggling seafood, drool-worthy delis and clued-up casalinghe (homemakers), it’s a great place to soak up Naples’ trademark street life and pick up a few bargains.
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Tabaccheria Sisimbro
This temple to tobacco stocks hard-to-find cigarettes (including Dunhill, Dupont and Cartier varieties) as well as decadent Cuban cigars, which are maintained at optimum temperature in a special humidified walk-in room. A range of Italian pipes, cigar cutters, lighters and ashtrays complete the smoky picture.
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OK-KO Research
Ironic hipsters shop here for Andy Warhol light boxes, lurid plastic chairs, Dutch designer clocks, chill-out compilation CDs and fluoro-coloured handbags in the shape of watering cans. The counter doubles as a deck for the in-house DJ and aperitivo (aperitif) is served upstairs in the winter.
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Culti Spacafé
This uber-chic lifestyle temple features Japanese-style homewares, signature beauty products, a fashionable florist, a sassy restaurant/bar and a fabulous day spa complete with glam hammam (communal bath house). Shop for silk slippers, sip a Campari, then get horizontal for a spot of shiatsu.
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Bowinkel
The city’s finest vintage prints, photographs, watercolour paintings and classic frames. If you can’t find what you’re looking for here, check out its sister branch at Piazza dei Martiri 24 ([tel] 081 764 43 44). Erudite owner Umberto speaks a smattering of English and will arrange shipments abroad.
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Tramontano
With fans including Woody Allen, Tramontano has an epic rep for exquisitely crafted Neapolitan leather goods, from butter-soft wallets to glam handbags and preppy-cool satchels. Famously at Christmas, a new model bag is released, inspired by a classic song…such as Patti Smith’s ‘Kimberley’.
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Eddy Monetti
Neapolitan style queens head here for exquisitely cut jackets, skirts and trousers, and fabulous leather handbags. Think Vogue-meets-Harpers Bazaar, with labels including Etro, Blumarine, Malo and Cucinelli. Prices start at around €250.00 for separates.
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Amarcord 900 Modernariato e Collezionismo
Can't find that limited-edition 1972 space toy? Chances are it's ready to launch at this quirky collectables bolt hole. Drop in for shagadelic lamps, retro album covers and rare vintage toys, including retro Russian ambulances and Italian tin cars. Old toys are also restored.
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Berisio
Set on a street of secondhand bookshops, this stalwart boasts floor-to-ceiling preloved titles. Pick up a Caravaggio catalogue, flick through a Neapolitan design book or adopt a dog-eared play script. Most titles are in Italian. There are also some cool puzzles for the kids.
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Livio de Simone
The late Livio De Simone dressed the likes of Audrey Hepburn and Jackie O. Today his wife and daughter keep the vision alive with bold, bright, hand-printed robe chemesiers (shirt dresses) and matching purses, bags and shoes – it’s Capri with a Japanese twist.
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Contemporastudio
A concrete-clad gallery stocking funky, experimental jewellery from Neapolitan Asad Ventrella: necklaces made of solid-silver penne rigate (penne pasta shapes), fat double-faced rings in titanium and aluminium and sharp-looking cufflinks for style-savvy gents.
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Bershka
Chic concrete floors, lurid orange walls and thumping Madonna remixes set the scene for retail rampage at this well-priced fashion hub. Bershka's two floors stock seriously cool urbanwear for guys and girls, from designer denim to retro T-shirts and look-at-me swimwear.
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Giuseppe Ferrigno
King of the Christmas cribs, Ferrigno's terracotta figurines are sought by collectors worldwide. Part studio, part shop, its shelves are lined with enough doting Marys, buxom peasants and elaborate market sets to keep your presepe on the nativity scene A-list.
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Jossa
There's nothing restrained about the ultracool menswear collection here: paint-splashed denim, hot-pink shirts, striped pastel knitwear and sexy pinstriped suits. Match it all up with hip footwear from Pantofola d'Oro, Carshoe and Abercrombie & Fitch.
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Intimissimi
Intimissimi is a local favourite for well-priced women's and men's knickers and briefs. The look is cool and sexy, with funky prints, and ensembles such as boudoir-red-and-black satin that are guaranteed to have you - and yours - purring with pleasure.
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Blue Chiara Luce
Need a frock for your pastori (nativity-scene figurines)? Lucia Azzurro sews up baroque costumes in silks and linens for crib-scene characters and religious statuettes, leaving your three wise men perfectly preened for any miraculous occasion.
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La Duchessa
Gritty, multiethnic and obscenely cheap; head here for bargain denim, shoes, knickers, make-up and bootleg DVDs. Serious music buffs head in early to hunt for original, recent-release CDs and the odd hard-to-find special edition for as little as €3.
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