Trattorium restaurants in Naples
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A
Nennella
NennellaCasareccio (homestyle) cooking and Neapolitan theatricality collide at loud, unmissable Nennella. Give your name to Ciro and wait for the boisterous staff to call you in. Inside, roguish waiters serve up uncomplicated gems like crispy fried sardines, lip-smacking spaghetti con lupine (spaghetti with lupin) or insalatona nennella (rocket, bresaola and radish salad).
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B
Tripperia Fiorenzano
Beneath languorous strips of hanging tripe, fifth-generation trippaio (tripe seller) Antonio and his wife busily prepare take-home orders for hurried housewives. Behind the counter, five tables and a neon blue shrine to Christ set the scene for sit-down adventures. Be brave and try the zuppa di carne cotta (tripe broth; €6) or the quintessentially Neapolitan tripe with tomato and basil. You might surprise yourself.
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C
Da Pietro
Flanked by its grander neighbours, but sharing the same five-star harbour view, Da Pietro is simple and modest, right down to the plastic tablecloths, chalked-up daily menu and mildly harassed staff. Keep it real with spaghetti with tomato and basil, and filthy fresh bowls of mussels. A combination of competitive prices and few tables means you should expect to queue.
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D
Campagnola
Hidden out the back of a wine shop, Campagnola looks like a poker room - sallow light and a wizened owner dealing out cards to his chums. The diners? Mostly an afterthought. So why do the famished keep flocking? Try the spaghetti alla maccheronata (fresh tomatoes, basil and pecorino cheese) and you'll see. Expect weekend queues.
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E
La Cantina della Sapienza
Pared-down classics made with the morning’s market shop are what they do best here. Think parmigiana di melanzane (slices of aubergine alternated with layers of tomato sauce and mozzarella) and caprese con provola. Sweet tooths take note: owner Gaetano whips up a different dessert every day.
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F
Antica Trattoria Don Peppino
This snug spot has a mind-blowing array of rustic artefacts hanging from its ceiling - brass pots, dried corn and ropes of garlic and peppers. Equally loveable are its bountiful offerings, which include hearty seafood risotto and carne al ragù (beef cooked slowly in a rich tomato sauce).
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G
Trattoria da Carmine
A quiet haven of homey, Neapolitan cooking in the midst of the tumultuous centro storico. Beneath vintage photos, the patient waiter guides diners through the limited menu of regional staples, such as marinated anchovies and penne alla sorrentina (pasta, mozzarella and tomatoes).
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H
Avellinese
Energy-boosting serves of pasta, meat and fish dishes. Go for the latter (unless it's Monday); there's a fish market around the corner. The service is brisk and business-like and there's an outdoor terrace. The district is a little dodgy so don't wave that Prada handbag around after dark.
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I
Acunzo
Old-school cooking, heady aromas, vintage decor and one very satisfied clientele. Tuck into simple, satisfying classics such as the homemade gnocchi, paper-thin pizzas topped with cherry tomatoes, mozzarella and fresh rocket leaves, or the hearty calzone stuffed with beans.
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