Other restaurants in Naples
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Da Cicciotto
Perched on a cliff in the fishing village of Marechiaro, low-key yet elegant Cicciotto is a seasoned charmer. Edible highlights include a sublime carpaccio antipasto (thin slices of raw seafood drizzled with lemon juice and olive oil), lightly battered courgette flowers stuffed with ricotta and a pacchetti pasta dish served with local crab and cherry tomatoes. Desserts such as crostata with lemon cream, wild strawberries and Chantilly cream are equally mesmerising. There’s a warm-weather terrace, and a free courtesy shuttle ([tel] 338 380 93 75, in Italian) servicing various city hotels. Book ahead.
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Melius
Beef up the larder (or picnic hamper) at this luscious gourmet deli, where local delicacies include fresh mozzarella di bufala, Graniano pasta, sopressata Cilentana (smoked salami from Cilento), citrusy Amalfi Coast marmalades and liquore alla mela annurca, a liqueur made using Annurca apples. For a self-catered treat, pick up some fragrant bread, a bottle of local Falanghina and some ready edibles; the peppery marinated aubergines and pizza di scarole (escarole pie) are equally divine.
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La Taverna del Buongustaio
A stroll through La Pignasecca is bound to whet your appetite. Mercifully, this low-fuss, Totò-loving, white-tiled dining room is a fork plunge away. Written menus are traded in for fast-talking, white-capped cooks who speed through the daily specials with seasoned dexterity. Don’t stress! It’s all fresh, faithful home cooking, from the moreish fritto misto (mixed fried seafood) to the sublime spaghetti alle frutte di mare (spaghetti with mussels and clams). A local favourite; it’s best to book ahead.
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Tarallificio Leopoldo
Made with pepper, almonds and pork fat, oven-baked tarallini mandorlati (savoury almond biscuits) are dangerously moreish and readily available at this fourth-generation bakery- pasticceria. For a sugar hit, try the buttery taralli zuccherati (sugared taralli); the ones without the icing sugar are best. Taralli’s traditional rivals are also available here, from babà to a wicked cannoletto crammed with chocolate butter cream and dipped in dark chocolate.
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Da Giona
Right on a sandy beach with views of Procida and Ischia, this retro, sun-bleached restaurant enjoys cult status in Naples (book ahead on weekends). The seafood dishes are simple, fresh and lingering, from the antipasto misto (which might include fried courgettes and prawns, marinated carpaccio and octopus salad) to an unforgettable spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams). If the weather’s on your side, request a table on the raffish deck, and while away the hours with a local Falanghina.
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Il Garum
The kind of place you keep coming back to, this cosy osteria (wine bar that serves food) blends whitewashed walls, linen-clad tables and softly glowing wrought-iron lanterns. Delicately flavoured, revamped classics are the order of the day in dishes like rigatoni with shredded courgettes (zucchini) and mussels, and an exquisite grilled calamari stuffed with vegetables, cherry tomatoes and Parmesan. All the cakes are made on the premises and there’s live Neapolitan music once or twice a week.
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Scaturchio
In a city infamous for belt-busting temptations, this vintage pasticceria enjoys cult status. While you’ll find all the local classics (including a particularly luscious babà), the star attraction is the ministeriale. A dark-chocolate medallion invented in the 19th century, the ingredients of its liqueur-laced ganache filling are a closely guarded secret. At the time of research, a frescoed tearoom was set to open upstairs.
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Angelo Carbone
Off the tourist trail but well on the radar of locals, this chintzy bar-pasticceria-rosticceria makes one seriously buttery sfogliatella, not to mention a heavenly pasticcino crema e amarena (a short-pastry bun filled with cherries and custard). Savoury options include satisfying panini (€2) and there’s alfresco seating beside the frescoed porticos of the Chiesa Santa Maria Regina Coeli opposite.
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Monkey
A quick walk from the Parco Archeologico di Baia, this piazza-side neighbourhood bar-geletaria combo dishes out a fine aperitivo spread nightly from 7pm (get in early). The real star, however, is the wickedly good gelato, served in waffle cones. Freshly made, the small selection of flavours is seasonal and regularly changing – the creamy cioccolato and delectable nocciola (hazelnut) are particularly fine.
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Di Matteo
Di Matteo’s golden, velvety crocchè are like a culinary cuddle. In fact, the little street stall at this no-frills pizzeria sells some of the city’s best fried snacks, from pizza fritta (fried pizza) to nourishing arancini (fried rice balls). If you’re after a sit-down feed, head inside for trademark sallow lighting, surly waiters, and lip-smacking pizzas, best washed down with a cold bottled beer.
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La Stanza del Gusto
Hip and eclectic, the ‘Taste Room’ offers a ground-floor ‘cheese bar’ for low-fuss vino sessions and grazing (the rare cheeses are fabulous), and an upstairs dining room for mod-twist adventures – think fegatini (chicken liver) flan with strawberry salsa and variations on baccalà (salted cod). A small basement food shop stocks the kitchen’s own sauces, as well as take-home deli treats and wines.
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Exytus Caffè
It might just be a tiny hole-in-the-wall (okay, technically, there are two holes in the wall), but Exytus is a street cafe with a big reputation. Join the curbside crowd for espresso with perfect schiuma zuccherata (sugared froth), best enjoyed with a brilliant cornetto (croissant); we have a major crush on the crema e amarena (custard and cherry) combo.
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La Scialuppa
Almost 150 years young and a hit with Italian VIPs, La Scialuppa is a sound choice for romantic harbourside noshing. Predictably, seafood is the star, from the moreish fritto misto (mixed fried seafood) to the vino-infused risotto alla scialuppa (seafood risotto). In the warmer months, the yacht-flanking alfresco tables are a prized possession, so book ahead.
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Attanasio
This retro pastry peddler makes one mighty sfogliatella, not to mention creamy cannolli siciliani (pastry shells with a sweet filling of ricotta) and runny, rummy babà (rum-soaked yeast cake). Savoury fiends shouldn’t miss the hearty pasticcino rustico (savoury bread), stuffed with provola (provolone), ricotta and salami.
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Chalet Ciro Mergellina
This iconic seaside chalet sells everything from coffee and pastries to crêpes, but the reason to head here is for brioche con gelato, a sweetened bun stuffed with delectable ice cream and topped with a dollop of panna (cream). Pay inside, choose your flavours at the street-side counter, and then counter the cals with a bayside saunter.
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Trattoria Mangia e Bevi
Everyone from pierced students to bespectacled professori squeeze around the lively, communal tables for brilliant home cooking at rock-bottom prices. Scan the daily-changing menu, jot down your choices and brace for gems like juicy salsiccia di maiale (pork sausage) and peperoncino -spiked friarielli (local broccoli).
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Fantasia Gelati
Head here for the city’s finest gelato. The heavenly, made-on-site flavours include a dangerously dense cuore nero (dark chocolate), bound to leave chocoholics gagging for more. The gelato caldo (hot gelato) flavours aren’t actually warm – just creamier. There’s another handy branch in Vomero.
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Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo
The clamouring crowds say it all: Gino Sorbillo is king of the pizza pack. Head in for gigantic, wood-fired perfection, best followed by a velvety semifreddo; the chocolate and torroncino (almond nougat) combo is divine.
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La Trattoria dell’Oca
Refined yet relaxed, this softly lit trattoria celebrates beautifully cooked classics, which may include gnocchi al ragù or a superb baccalà (salted cod) cooked with succulent cherry tomatoes, capers and olives.
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Pizzeria Vesi
The pizzas are more than decent and there’s warm-weather alfresco seating for voyeuristic noshing.
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