Neapolitan restaurants in Naples
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A
Lombardi a Santa Chiara
From J-Lo lookalikes to cantankerous nonni, Neapolitans clamber to get into this faded favourite. Perche? For classic pizza, hearty pasta and finger-licking seafood. Vegetarians are spoilt for choice, with satisfying salads and an artfully combined platter of courgettes, artichokes and buffalo mozzarella. Weekend queues are long, so book ahead.
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Antica Cantina di Sica
While the softly lit vaulted ceilings and genteel vibe recall central Italy, this wonderful gastronomic hideaway is true to classic regional fare made with salutary attention to detail. The generous antipasto is an inspiring introduction (think tender tripe in fragrant tomato sauce and buttery melanzana parmigiana), while the frittura mista (mixed fried seafood) stays crispy to the last bite. The homemade desserts (try the velvety cassata napoletana) are equally inspired.
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Europa Mattozzi
A dignified dining institution that has wowed the best of them – Anita Ekberg signed the plate in the window. Colourful ceramic plates line the walls, while seasonal classics line the menu. While the antipasto misto (mixed antipasto platter) makes for an inspiring prologue (we adore the delicate artichoke and potato frittata), trust your waiter’s suggestions – whether it’s the grilled squid with endive or the soothing pasta Genovese, you’ll be toasting like a Swedish goddess. Book ahead.
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D
Di Bruno
Discerning palates flock here for upper-crust Italian fare, a 350-strong wine list and impeccable service. Seafood is the undisputed star, with offerings such as a show-stopping spaghetti ricci e cicinielli (spaghetti with sea urchin and whitebait) guaranteed to please the picky. The pasta is made from scratch, as are the desserts, which may include a spectacular tortina di cioccolato (chocolate tartlet), best accompanied by a glass of Barolo Chinato.
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E
Maktub
Mandolins and wall plates? Try yellow paper lanterns and a gnarled tree trunk growing out of the dining room floor. Add barrel-vaulted ceiling, candlelight, DJ and a laid-back crowd, and you start to get the picture. Go for the scialatielli con pomodorino (pasta with cherry tomatoes) or zucchini e pancetta (pasta with tomato, courgettes and bacon) and finish off with the naughty sbriciolona di Nutella (chocolate salami).
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Starita
They don’t get more Neapolitan than this pizzeria, set in a washing-fringed street. The giant fork and ladle hanging on the wall were used by Sophia Loren in L’Oro di Napoli, and the kitchen made the pizze fritte sold by the actress in the film. While the 53 pizza varieties include a tasty fiorilli e zucchini (zucchini, zucchini flowers and provola), our allegiance remains to its classic marinara.
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A Lampara
Short of spruiking it on a street corner, perma-tanned locals pledge allegiance to this homely haven, where the ravioli alla bolognese is an education in bolognese brilliance. Enjoy it on the voyeuristic streetside terrace. The wine list brims with decent local drops, and the summertime Sunday buffet draws a preppy league of loyal fans - so get in early.
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I Giardini di Capodimonte
Like a merciful mate, this shady terraced number waits at the top of the steep steps leading from Tondo di Capodimonte. Be good to yourself with a bowl of gnocchetti al limone (gnocchi with lemon) or the decadent risotto allo champagne (champagne risotto). Gurgling fountain and sultry Neapolitan song complete the soothing picture.
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Dora
Don’t be fooled by the humble front on a forlorn street: Dora’s is one of Naples’ finest fish restaurants. Surrounded by breezy blue-and-white tiles and marine memorabilia, you can dive into juicy chargrilled prawns and a crisp frittura di pesce (fried fish) as the veteran owner breaks into song. Reservations are essential.
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La Bersagliera
This harbourside diva has wined and dined the best of them - there are photos of Salvador Dali and Sophia Loren to prove it. Waterfront views and a lavish dining room set the scene for star-worthy dishes such as clam and mussel soup and taglierini (fine ribbon pasta) with baby octopus, black olives and tomatoes.
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Umberto
Gluten-intolerant diners can feast on allergy-friendly fare, such as a refreshing orange, almond and fennel salad and perfectly pan-fried swordfish with cherry tomatoes, olives and capers. The cheaper gourmet pizzas include a fabulous prosciutto crudo, rocket, mozzarella and parmesan combo.
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Bellini
Bellini sets the scene for lurve, with its candlelit terrace, cobbled streetscape and vintage cummerbund waiters. Get acquainted with just-caught fish or tuck into obscenely copious bowls of pasta - the linguine ai frutti di mare (pasta with fresh seafood) is heroic.
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Ciro a Santa Brigida
After a night at nearby Teatro Augusteo, styled-up theatre buffs head here for classic service and soul food. Discuss the plot over pasta e fagioli (pasta and green beans) or pizza ai frutti di mare (seafood pizza).
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