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A Lampara
Short of spruiking it on a street corner, perma-tanned locals pledge allegiance to this homely haven, where the ravioli alla bolognese is an education in bolognese brilliance. Enjoy it on the voyeuristic streetside terrace. The wine list brims with decent local drops, and the summertime Sunday buffet draws a preppy league of loyal fans - so get in early.
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Acunzo
Old-school cooking, heady aromas, vintage decor and one very satisfied clientele. Tuck into simple, satisfying classics such as the homemade gnocchi, paper-thin pizzas topped with cherry tomatoes, mozzarella and fresh rocket leaves, or the hearty calzone stuffed with beans.
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Angolo de Paradiso
Beneath the ubiquitous row of old photographs, time-tested regulars tackle steamy hot pizzas served by affable pin-striped wait staff. Indecisive taste buds can have it all with the pizza Paradiso; five good-sized slices with toppings such as Neapolitan sausage, salami, aubergine and spinach. The wine is dangerously cheap.
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Antica Cantina di Sica
Rustic yet chic (think softly lit vaulted ceilings, dark wooden furniture and bottle-lined honeycomb walls), Antica Cantina serves up classic Neapolitan fare made with salutary attention to detail. Among the winners are the pasta patata e provola (pasta, potato and provola cheese) and the ziti alla genovese (pasta with rich onion and meat sauce). Ditch the vino locale for a bottled wine instead - it's cheaper.
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Antica Osteria da Tonino
Popular? It's a wonder the door hasn't come off its hinges. At the front, time-pressed signore pick up their takeaway orders and a bottle of red. At the few packed tables, Borrelli suits, old-timers and the odd Nobel Prize winner (Dario Fo ate here) tuck into hearty grub such as pasta ragù e ricotta.
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Antica Trattoria da Carmine
This homely haven houses the rarest of native species: the patient waiter. Beneath vintage Neapolitan photographs, he guides the indecisive through keep-the-faith classics such as juicy grilled squid and a delectable penne alla sorrentina (penne, mozzarella and tomatoes). Propose a toast to the well-priced house wine.
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Antica Trattoria Don Peppino
This snug spot has a mind-blowing array of rustic artefacts hanging from its ceiling - brass pots, dried corn and ropes of garlic and peppers. Equally loveable are its bountiful offerings, which include hearty seafood risotto and carne al ragù (beef cooked slowly in a rich tomato sauce).
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Avellinese
Energy-boosting serves of pasta, meat and fish dishes. Go for the latter (unless it's Monday); there's a fish market around the corner. The service is brisk and business-like and there's an outdoor terrace. The district is a little dodgy so don't wave that Prada handbag around after dark.
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Bellini
Bellini sets the scene for lurve , with its candlelit terrace, cobbled streetscape and vintage cummerbund waiters. Get acquainted with just-caught fish or tuck into obscenely copious bowls of pasta - the linguine ai frutti di mare (pasta with fresh seafood) is heroic.
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Brandi
Everything about Brandi promises a pizza slice above the ordinary, from the table-top roses to the multilingual flyers that claim this was where the pizza margherita was invented in 1889. While this claim is contestable, Brandi's huge perfect pizzas are not. Alternatively, hunker down à la carte with pasta, fish and meat choices of lofty quality (and price).
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Caffe Gambrinus
The grand Gambrinus is Naples' oldest and most venerable cafe. Oscar Wilde knocked back a few here and Mussolini had some of the rooms shut down to keep out left-wing intellectuals. It's now suitably decked out in marble, antiques and the odd mock-Grecian statue, and the snooty staff serve pricey coffees, cocktails and snacks to golden-skinned posers and smitten out-of-towners.
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Campagnola
Hidden out the back of a wine shop, Campagnola looks like a poker room - sallow light and a wizened owner dealing out cards to his chums. The diners? Mostly an afterthought. So why do the famished keep flocking? Try the spaghetti alla maccheronata (fresh tomatoes, basil and pecorino cheese) and you'll see. Expect weekend queues.
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Castello
It could be the vino lining the walls, the piles of cookbooks or Norah Jones crooning in the background, but this place feels like home. Kick back with a steamy bowl of pappardelle (wide ribbon pasta) with courgette flowers and mussels or filetto al castello (veal in a creamy courgette sauce). Equally divine is the homemade zeppola , a doughy pie filled with fresh berries and custard.
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Cibi Cotti
The gruff old chap in the Godfather sunglasses is Vittorio and deep down he's a softie. His little white-tiled eatery is an in-the-know gem, tucked away in a raffish market arcade. Conversations bounce from table to laminex table as regulars feed on simple, filling and super-cheap choices such as sardine fritte (fried sardines) and rice with octopus, rocket and cherry tomatoes.
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Ciro a Santa Brigida
After a night at nearby Teatro Augusteo, styled-up theatre buffs head here for classic service and soul food. Discuss the plot over pasta e fagioli (pasta and green beans) or pizza ai frutti di mare (seafood pizza).
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Da Michele
King of the pizza brat pack, vintage Da Michele keeps things plain and simple: unadorned marble tabletops, brisk service and two types of pizza - margherita or marinara . Both are superlative and guaranteed to turn you into a pizza snob. Just show up, take a ticket and wait your turn.
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Da Pietro
Flanked by its grander neighbours, but sharing the same five-star harbour view, Da Pietro is simple and modest, right down to the plastic tablecloths, chalked-up daily menu and mildly harassed staff. Keep it real with spaghetti with tomato and basil, and filthy fresh bowls of mussels. A combination of competitive prices and few tables means you should expect to queue.
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Di Bruno
Discerning palates saunter here for upper-crust Italian fare, a 200-strong wine list and impeccable service. Seafood is the undisputed star, with offerings such as carpacci tagliati di pesce crudo (raw fish drizzled in olive oil and parmesan) guaranteed to please the picky. The pasta is made from scratch, as are the desserts, which feature a can't-stop-at-one ricotta and pear tart.
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Di Girolamo Giuseppe
Run by charming elderly gentlemen in retro diner hats, this loveable nook serves up tasty grub at rock-bottom prices. Pizza a taglio combos include mozzarella and spinach, and pumpkin tomato basil and olives. There's also pizza fritta (fried pizza), focaccia and ready-to-eat plates of pasta. Plonk yourself down on a bar stool and fill up to the sounds of Burt Bacharach.
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Donna Teresa
This swing-a-cat-sized dining room - there are only eight tables - has an epic reputation for solid home cooking. Mamma Teresa's photo looks on approvingly as diners tuck into classics such as spezzatini al ragu (ragù stew) and salsicce al sugo (sausages with tomato sauce). The menu is limited, changes daily and pulls in the hordes, so book or go hungry.
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Dora
Dishing up the best fish in town, humble Dora hides its celebrity status behind a tatty shop front on a forlorn street. Don't be fooled. Inside, an empty seat is as rare as a mediocre meal. Under hospital-bright light, loveable waiters dish up gems such as juicy char-grilled prawns, and linguine with crustaceans. The owner is known to break out in song. Book or miss out.
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Europa Mattozzi
This celebrated low-key classic has been on the scene for over a century. Adorned with colourful wall plates and prints, its elegant, well-versed staff serve up gems such as buffalo mozzarella with marinated octopus and fried zucchini, and nourishing pasta with parsley and chickpeas.
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I Giardini di Capodimonte
Like a merciful mate, this shady terraced number waits at the top of the steep steps leading from Tondo di Capodimonte. Be good to yourself with a bowl of gnocchetti al limone (gnocchi with lemon) or the decadent risotto allo champagne (champagne risotto). Gurgling fountain and sultry Neapolitan song complete the soothing picture.
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Intra Moenia
Lattes and literature live side by side at this free-thinking cafe/bookshop/publishing house. It's a hit with the left-leaning and artistically inclined, who feed their souls on the misto di formaggi (mixed cheese platter) and fruit salad with honey and muesli. The house wine costs around €4.00 a glass.
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La Bersagliera
This harbourside diva has wined and dined the best of them - there are photos of Salvador Dali and Sophia Loren to prove it. Waterfront views and a lavish dining room set the scene for star-worthy dishes such as clam and mussel soup and taglierini (fine ribbon pasta) with baby octopus, black olives and tomatoes.
