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Ciro
More bobbing boats and roaming Romanian musicians. Yacht owners and envious tourists clamber for a spot on the terrace (get here early), where classic waiters serve equally classic dishes. Stick with the award-winning pizzas and fresh seafood; the linguine pasta with crustaceans and shellfish is pricey perfection.
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L.U.I.S.E.
This chic little deli is a gourmand's playpen - think fat cheeses and sausages, homemade foodstuffs and bottles of luscious wine. In the back room, lunching 9-to-5-ers tuck into warming osso buco , nourishing risotti and homemade gnocchi. Busy travellers can take away, with freshly fried pizza fritta , crisp arancini and sugar-dusted pasticcini crema amarena (pastries filled with cherry cream).
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