Entertainment in Naples
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Caffè Gambrinus
Grand, chandeliered Gambrinus is Naples' oldest and most venerable cafe. Oscar Wilde knocked back a few here and Mussolini had some of the rooms shut down to keep out left-wing intellectuals. Sure, the prices may be steeper, but the pre-dinner aperitivo nibbles are decent and sipping a spritz while soaking up elegant Piazza Triesto e Trento is a moment worth savouring.
reviewed
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Bourbon Street
A red-brick slice of New Orleans in Napoli. Smooth American and Italian jazz musicians perform virtually every night to a mixed-age crowd of head-swaying jazz aficionados.
reviewed
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Teatro San Carlo
Adjoining the square, Piazza Trieste e Trento, fronted on the northeastern side by Italy’s largest opera house, the sumptuous Teatro San Carlo.It is famed for its perfect acoustics. Locals will proudly boast that it was built in 1737, predating its northern rival, Milan’s La Scala, by 41 years. Inaugurated on 4 December 1737 by Charles VII, it was severely damaged by a fire in 1816 and rebuilt by Antonio Niccolini, the same architect who a few years before had added the facade. At the time of research, the future of the 40-minute tours of the theatre was unclear. Contact the theatre or tourist office for updates.
reviewed
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A Pigna d'Uva
It might look like a makeshift bar in a neighbour’s garage, but this threadbare enoteca is a local darling. Selling the city’s cheapest vino (wine by the plastic cup starts at €0.70, bottles around €2 to €3), it’s a brilliant spot to soak up the neighbourhood vibe, with an eclectic cast of regulars spanning lefty artists to sing-song drunks. It’s also a handy spot to sip a spritz before noshing at Nennella.
reviewed
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Intra Moenia
Despite the sloppy service, this free-thinking cafe–bookshop–publishing house on Piazza Bellini is a good spot for chilling out. Browse limited-edition books on Neapolitan culture, pick up a vintage-style postcard, or simply slip on that beret, sip a prosecco and act the intellectual. The house wine costs €4 a glass and there's a range of salads, snacks and classic Neapolitan grub for peckish bohemians.
reviewed
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Galleria Toledo
If it's cutting edge, independent or experimental, chances are it's playing at this cult-status theatre, tucked away in the Quartieri Spagnoli. Gigs span both local and global plays and live music, with the odd offbeat arthouse flick thrown in for good measure. Phone bookings are taken (including at weekends), with ticket pick-up at the box office 30 minutes prior to the performance.
reviewed
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Teatro Palapartenope
Located in suburban Fuorigrotta, west of central Naples, the architecturally uninspiring Palapartenope is the biggest indoor concert venue in town. A 6000-plus seating capacity sets the scene for big-name Italian and international acts, which have included everyone from local crooner Pino Daniele to vintage icons Lou Reed and Spandau Ballet.
reviewed
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Aret'a'Palm
Its name means ‘behind the palm’ in Neapolitan, and that’s exactly where you’ll find this soulful piazza-side bolt-hole, decked out in red velvet curtains and dimly lit mirrors. Slip in and rub shoulders with a laid-back crowd of artists, actors and academics, who flock here as much for the jazz and blues as for the inspiring wine list.
reviewed
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Goodfellas
Only a few years old, this barrel-vaulted watering hole serves up infectious live music (anything from rhythm and blues to rock and jazz) nightly bar Tuesday and Saturday. It’s a hit with music aficionados, who’ll warn you not to miss a show by local bluesman–guitar whiz Gennaro Porcelli and his Highway 61 (www.gennaroporcelli.com).
reviewed
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Arenile Reload
The biggest of Naples' beachside clubs, head in for poolside cocktails, see-and-be-seen aperitivo sessions, live bands and dancing under the stars. The club is a short walk south of Bagnoli station on the Cumana rail line.
reviewed
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Stadio San Paolo
Naples' football team Napoli is the third-most supported in Italy after Juventus and Milan, and watching them play in the country's third-largest stadium is a highly charged rush. The season runs from late August to late May, with seats costing between €20 and €100. Book tickets from tobacconists, Azzurro Service or Box Office and don't forget your photo ID. On match days, tickets are also available at the stadium itself.
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Centro di Musica Antica Pietà de' Turchini
Classical-music buffs are in for a treat at this beautiful deconsecrated church. Home to the historic Orchestra Cappella della Pietà dei Turchini, it's an evocative setting for concerts of mostly 17th- to 19th-century Neapolitan works. Tickets cost about €10, and upcoming concerts are listed on the venue's website.
reviewed
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Bluestone
Soulless to some, über-glam to others, this slinky restaurant-bar–live music venue is the latest place to see and be seen. Ditch the overpriced menu and join the label-loving crowd for live gigs spanning local singer-songwriters to imported jazz, gospel and rock. Check the website for what’s on when.
reviewed
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Mercadante
Recently restored, the 18th-century Mercadante is home to Naples' major theatre company, the Teatro Stabile. A bumper season of high-standard productions includes new and classic Neapolitan, Italian and international works from the likes of Luca de Filippo, Roberto de Simone and Paul Léautaud.
reviewed
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Depot Cruising Bar
This gay playpen attracts men with one thing on their mind, and it's not Kylie - think skin flicks, cruising maze and dark private cabins. Check the website for themed leather, uniform and naked nights. The club is located just off edgy Piazza Carlo III, so catch a cab home.
reviewed
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Associazione Scarlatti
Naples' premier classical-music association organises an annual program of chamber-music concerts in venues across the city, including Teatro San Carlo and Castel Sant'Elmo. Local talent mixes it with foreign guests, which have included the Amsterdam Baroque Orchestra, St Petersburg's Mariinsky Theatre Orchestra and Belgian composer Philippe Herreweghe.
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Teatro Nuovo
Samuel Beckett and controversial Italian director Pier Paolo Pasolini are among the more recognisable names to appear on the Nuovo's programme. A modern theatre, it provides a stage for emerging European writers whose works may or may not appeal.
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Grooming
One in a row of quirky bars, Grooming is a hit with Vomero's rich kids. Under its hanging African masks, they sip aperitifs, snack on panini (sandwiches) and gaze out over city and sea. Head in early for food as it tends to run out.
reviewed
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Freelovers @ Edenlandia
Set in a Disney-style theme park, this is a queer summertime favourite. Groove under the stars beside a fairytale castle or crash into a cutie on the dodgem cars. Music is poppy and the vibe is fun. You'll need a taxi to get back into town.
reviewed
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Officina 99
No Philippe Starck lighting here, just an abandoned factory packed with hardcore lefties, punks and raw live acts ranging from radical Neapolitan rap to anti-Establishment reggae. Gigs are sporadic, so call ahead or check the website.
reviewed
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Lontano da Dove
Literary types head here to sip espresso, talk Baudelaire and tap their fingers to Chet Baker. Close to Piazza Bellini, this erudite cafe also hosts poetry readings and occasional jazz performances. Turtleneck sweaters are optional.
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Mutiny Republic
Artful clubbing awaits at this funky centro storico newie. A friendly, boho crowd kicks back on silky sofas, eye up cutting-edge art and get down to DJ-spun jazz, electro-soul and disco funk or to live acts with a world music edge.
reviewed
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Kinky Bar
Though its name may suggest otherwise, there are no whips and chains here - just a funky smoky cellar pumping out dub and reggae, man. A mainly student crowd packs the place, with overspill packing out the bar-lined street outside.
reviewed
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Freezer
Blue neon and acid-green walls set the postmodern scene at this Berlin-style bolthole. Dressed to kill in latex and plastic creations, a mixed crowd of extravagant clubbers hits the floor for high-octane house and electronica.
reviewed
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White Bar
Bar-hopping fashionistas always make time for White. Stark and minimalist, it never upstages their Capri tans and catwalk threads. Join the moneyed masses for lounge tunes and one of the city's best aperitivo spreads.
reviewed