Entertainment in Campania
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Caffè Gambrinus
Tourists and overdressed visitors self-consciously sip overpriced coffee and cocktails at Naples’ most venerable cafe. Oscar Wilde and Bill Clinton count among the celebs who have graced its lavish art-nouveau interior.
reviewed
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Teatro San Carlo
Adjoining the square, Piazza Trieste e Trento, fronted on the northeastern side by Italy’s largest opera house, the sumptuous Teatro San Carlo.It is famed for its perfect acoustics. Locals will proudly boast that it was built in 1737, predating its northern rival, Milan’s La Scala, by 41 years. Inaugurated on 4 December 1737 by Charles VII, it was severely damaged by a fire in 1816 and rebuilt by Antonio Niccolini, the same architect who a few years before had added the facade. At the time of research, the future of the 40-minute tours of the theatre was unclear. Contact the theatre or tourist office for updates.
reviewed
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A Pigna d'Uva
It might look like a makeshift bar in a neighbour’s garage, but this threadbare enoteca is a local darling. Selling the city’s cheapest vino (wine by the plastic cup starts at €0.70, bottles around €2 to €3), it’s a brilliant spot to soak up the neighbourhood vibe, with an eclectic cast of regulars spanning lefty artists to sing-song drunks. It’s also a handy spot to sip a spritz before noshing at Nennella.
reviewed
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Intra Moenia
Lattes and literature live in harmony at this free-thinking cafe-bookshop–publishing house, slap-bang on Piazza Bellini. Browse limited-edition books on Neapolitan culture, pick up a vintage-style postcard, or simply slip on that beret, sip a prosecco and act the intellectual. The house wine costs €4 a glass and there’s a range of salads, pasta dishes and snacks for peckish bohemians.
reviewed
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Galleria Toledo
If it’s cutting edge, independent or experimental, chances are it’s playing at this cult-status theatre, tucked away in the Quartieri Spagnoli. Gigs span both local and global plays and live music, with the odd offbeat arthouse flick thrown in for good measure. Phone bookings are taken (including at weekends), with ticket pick-up at the box office 30 minutes prior to the performance.
reviewed
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Palapartenope
Located in suburban Fuorigrotta, west of central Naples, the architecturally uninspiring Palapartenope is the biggest indoor concert venue in town. A 6000-plus seating capacity sets the scene for big-name Italian and international acts, which have included everyone from local crooner Pino Daniele to vintage icons Lou Reed and Spandau Ballet.
reviewed
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Aret'a'Palm
Its name means ‘behind the palm’ in Neapolitan, and that’s exactly where you’ll find this soulful piazza-side bolt-hole, decked out in red velvet curtains and dimly lit mirrors. Slip in and rub shoulders with a laid-back crowd of artists, actors and academics, who flock here as much for the jazz and blues as for the inspiring wine list.
reviewed
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Goodfellas
Only a few years old, this barrel-vaulted watering hole serves up infectious live music (anything from rhythm and blues to rock and jazz) nightly bar Tuesday and Saturday. It’s a hit with music aficionados, who’ll warn you not to miss a show by local bluesman–guitar whiz Gennaro Porcelli and his Highway 61 (www.gennaroporcelli.com).
reviewed
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Teatro Tasso
Head to Teatro Tasso for a good old sing-along. The southern Italian equivalent of a cockney music hall, it’s home to the Sorrento Musical (€28), a sentimental revue of Neapolitan classics such as ‘O Sole Mio’. The 75-minute performances start at 9.30pm every evening from Monday to Saturday from March to October.
reviewed
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L'Arenile di Bagnoli
Best known for its posing, Campari-sipping fashionistas, Naples’ most famous beach club redeems itself with gorgeous views, a magical atmosphere, cultural events and a brilliant Tuesday-night jam session (€10, includes one drink, 10.30pm), which sees the top cats of the Neapolitan music scene trading licks and venting off.
reviewed
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Stadio San Paolo
A temple to the cult of football, this massive stadium played host to the notorious 1990 World Cup semi-final between Italy and Argentina during which Diego Maradona was jeered after asking Napoli football fans to cheer for Argentina. Pride aside, the stadium also hosts occasional pop concerts by big-name Italian acts.
reviewed
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Centro di Musica Antica Pietà de’ Turchini
Classical-music buffs are in for a treat at this beautiful deconsecrated church. Home to the historic Orchestra Cappella della Pietà dei Turchini, it’s an evocative setting for concerts of mostly 17th- and 18th-century Neapolitan works. Tickets cost about €10, and upcoming concerts are listed on the venue’s website.
reviewed
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Bollicine
An unpretentious wine bar with a dark wooden interior and boxes of bottles littered around the place. The wine list includes all the big Italian names and a selection of local labels –the amiable bartender will happily advise you. There’s also a small menu of panini, bruschetta and a pasta dish or two.
reviewed
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Bluestone
Soulless to some, über-glam to others, this slinky restaurant-bar–live music venue is the latest place to see and be seen. Ditch the overpriced menu and join the label-loving crowd for live gigs spanning local singer-songwriters to imported jazz, gospel and rock. Check the website for what’s on when.
reviewed
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Mercadante
Recently restored, the 18th-century Mercadante is home to Naples' major theatre company, the Teatro Stabile. A bumper season of high-standard productions includes new and classic Neapolitan, Italian and international works from the likes of Luca de Filippo, Roberto de Simone and Paul Léautaud.
reviewed
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Depot Cruising Bar
This gay playpen attracts men with one thing on their mind, and it's not Kylie - think skin flicks, cruising maze and dark private cabins. Check the website for themed leather, uniform and naked nights. The club is located just off edgy Piazza Carlo III, so catch a cab home.
reviewed
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Blue Jane
In the 1960s, docked boat Blue Jane was the famous A Lampara, floating playground for the likes of Mick and Bianca Jagger, Kirk Douglas and cult Italian singer Fabrizio de Andre. Today it pumps out mainly commercial and house tunes to a friendly, chilled-out crowd.
reviewed
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GM Bar
People flock to Procida for peace, so don't come expecting a wild time. Marina Grande has a few low-key options. GM Bar features live jazz, latin or local pop acts on Friday night, and DJ-spun commercial/house and commercial/Latin on Saturday and Sunday night respectively.
reviewed
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Associazione Scarlatti
Naples’ premier classical-music association organises an annual program of chamber-music concerts in venues across the city. Local talent mixes it with foreign guests, which have included the Amsterdam Baroque Orchestra and St Petersburg’s Mariinsky Theatre Orchestra.
reviewed
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Teatro Nuovo
Samuel Beckett and controversial Italian director Pier Paolo Pasolini are among the more recognisable names to appear on the Nuovo's programme. A modern theatre, it provides a stage for emerging European writers whose works may or may not appeal.
reviewed
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Grooming
One in a row of quirky bars, Grooming is a hit with Vomero's rich kids. Under its hanging African masks, they sip aperitifs, snack on panini (sandwiches) and gaze out over city and sea. Head in early for food as it tends to run out.
reviewed
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Freelovers @ Edenlandia
Set in a Disney-style theme park, this is a queer summertime favourite. Groove under the stars beside a fairytale castle or crash into a cutie on the dodgem cars. Music is poppy and the vibe is fun. You'll need a taxi to get back into town.
reviewed
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ConWinum Wine Bar
Part wine bar, part art gallery, ConWinum is a snazzy, softly lit place with tangerine walls and swinging lounge music. Designer-clad Italians drop in for live jazz on Friday and Saturday nights (summer only) and a daily wine tasting.
reviewed
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Officina 99
No Philippe Starck lighting here, just an abandoned factory packed with hardcore lefties, punks and raw live acts ranging from radical Neapolitan rap to anti-Establishment reggae. Gigs are sporadic, so call ahead or check the website.
reviewed
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Lontano da Dove
Literary types head here to sip espresso, talk Baudelaire and tap their fingers to Chet Baker. Close to Piazza Bellini, this erudite cafe also hosts poetry readings and occasional jazz performances. Turtleneck sweaters are optional.
reviewed
