Things to do in Capri
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Giardini di Augusto
Get away from the Capri crowds by heading southwest of the monastery where, at the end of Via Matteotti, you have the unexpected green oasis of the colourful Giardini di Augusto. Founded by the Emperor Augustus, you should spend a few minutes contemplating the breathtaking view from here: gaze ahead to the Isole Faraglioni and the three dramatic limestone pinnacles that rise vertically out of the sea. Measuring 109m, 81m and 104m respectively, the stacks are home to a rare blue lizard that was once thought to be unique to the Faraglioni but has since been found on the Sicilian coast. While sadly beyond the capacity of even the most sophisticated camera lens, a photo from …
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Villa San Michele di Axel Munthe
The former home of self-aggrandising Swedish doctor Axel Munthe, San Michele di Axel Munthe should be included on every visitor’s itinerary. Built on the ruined site of a Roman villa, the gardens make a beautiful setting for a tranquil stroll with pathways flanked by immaculate flowerbeds. There are also superb views from here, plus some fine photo props in the form of Roman sculptures. If you are here between July and September, you may be able to catch one of the classical concerts that take place in the gardens. Check the Axel Munthe Foundation website for the current program and reservation information.
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Villa Jovis
East of the town centre, a comfortable 2km walk along Via Tiberio, Villa Jovis is sure to capture your imagination. Standing 354m above sea level, this was the largest and most sumptuous of the island’s 12 Roman villas and was Tiberius’ main Capri residence. Although not in great shape today, it is still very impressive size wise and wandering around will give you a good idea of the scale on which Tiberius liked to live. This vast pleasure complex famously pandered to the emperor’s saucy desires, and included imperial quarters and extensive bathing areas set in dense gardens and woodland.
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Seggiovia del Monte Solaro
A fast and painless way to reach Capri’s highest peak, the Seggiovia del Monte Solaro chairlift whisks you to the mountain peak in a tranquil beautiful ride of just 12 minutes. The views from the top are outstanding – on a clear day you can see the entire Bay of Naples, the Amalfi Coast and the islands of Ischia and Procida. If all that camera clicking has worked up an appetite, there’s a cafeteria here that serves snacks, drinks and ice creams.
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La Parissienne
First opened in 1906 (yes, that is not a misprint!), and best known for introducing Capri pants in the 1960s, famously worn by Jacqueline Onassis, who bought them from here – La Parissienne can run you up a made-to-measure pair within a day. Apparently Clark Gable was another Hollywood star who favoured the fashions here, particularly the Bermuda shorts, which (believe it or not) were considered quite raffish in their day.
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Piazza Umberto I
With its whitewashed stone buildings and tiny, car-free streets, Capri Town seems more film set than real life. In summer its toy-town streets swell with curious, camera-wielding day-trippers and gangs of the glossy rich. Central to the action is Piazza Umberto I (aka the Piazzetta), the showy, open-air salon where tanned tourists pay eye-watering prices to sip at one of four squareside cafés.
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Le Arcate
This is the restaurant that the locals recommend – and frequent. An unpretentious place with hanging baskets of ivy and well-aged terracotta tiles, it specialises in delicious primi (first courses) and pizzas. A real show-stopper is the risotto con polpa di granchio, rughetta e scaglie di parmigiano (risotto with crab meat, rocket and shavings of Parmesan).
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Chiesa di San Michele
If you appreciate the colour, intricate patterns and historical tradition of antique majolica tiles, consider a speedy visit to the Chiesa di San Michele, where Adam and Eve are vividly depicted, along with a bizarre animal menagerie, including a unicorn, bull, several goats and an elephant, in a glorious octagonal 18th-century majolica-tiled floor.
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La Cisterna
Named after and housed in a 2000-year-old Roman cistern, this unpretentious trattoria is a perennial favourite. Owned by the larger-than-life Salvatore, whose memorable picture adorns the bottles of house wine, it’s good for traditional dishes like pasta with beans, veal cutlets and wood-fired pizzas.
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Chiesa di Santo Stefano
The 17th-century Chiesa di Santo Stefano has a well-preserved marble floor (taken from Villa Jovis) and a statue of San Costanzo, Capri’s patron saint. Beside the northern chapel is a reliquary with a saintly bone that reputedly saved Capri from the plague in the 19th century.
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Lo Sfizietto
Lo Sfizietto uses only organic ingredients with choices that include cremolate with 60% fresh fruit, semifreddi (a decadent cross between mousse and ice cream), and some unusual combinations like its namesake, sfizietto (caramel with pine nuts).
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Trattoria Il Solitario
One of the better trattorias in the heart of Anacapri’s touristy centre, Il Solitario serves large helpings of tasty local food at honest prices. It’s a relaxed place with children’s toys in the corner and tables laid out in an inviting green backyard. Book ahead on summer weekends.
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Le Grottelle
About 150m from the Arco Naturale, Capri’s most atmospheric place has two dining areas: one set in a cave, the other on a terrace perched above a wooded hillside sloping down to the sea. The food is traditional – think simple pasta dishes followed by grilled fish, chicken or rabbit.
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La Pergola
The vine-shaded terrace and sea views provide a wonderful setting for La Pergola’s delicious, innovative food. Here, Capri classics mix it with more modern dishes such as paccheri con cozze, patate e peperoncino (large pasta rings with mussels, potatoes and chilli).
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Seggiovia
From Piazza Vittoria, the seggiovia carries you to the summit of Monte Solaro (589m), Capri’s highest point. The views from the top are outstanding – on a clear day you can see the entire Bay of Naples and the islands of Ischia and Procida.
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Limoncello Capri
For limoncello go up to Anacapri and Limoncello Capri, the birthplace of limoncello. Apparently, the grandmother of current owner Vivica made the tot as an after-dinner treat for the guests in her hotel, some 100 years ago.
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La Rondinella
One of Anacapri’s most consistently good restaurants, La Rondinella has a relaxed, rural feel. For something different try chef Michele’s linguine alla ciammura, a delicious pasta dish with a creamy white sauce of anchovies, garlic and parsley.
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Certosa di San Giacomo
To the east of the Piazzetta, Via Vittorio Emanuele and its continuation, Via Serena, lead down to the picturesque Certosa di San Giacomo, a 14th-century monastery with two cloisters and some fine 17th-century frescoes in the chapel.
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Giardini di Augusto
The colourful Giardini di Augusto was founded by the Emperor Augustus. The view from the gardens is breathtaking, looking over to the Isole Faraglioni, three limestone pinnacles that rise vertically out of the sea.
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Verginiello
Offering reliable, earthy food and grandstand views over Marina Grande, this bustling restaurant is as near to a budget diner as you’ll find in Capri Town. Of the pastas, the spaghetti alle cozze (spaghetti with mussels) is worth trying.
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Banana Sport
Operating out of a kiosk to the west of the port, Banana Sport hires out five-person motorised dinghies for €75 for two hours or €175 for the day. Here you can also pick up a boat to the Bagno di Tiberio.
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Monte Solaro
From Piazza Vittoria, the seggiovia carries you to the summit of Monte Solaro, Capri's highest point. The views from the top are outstanding - on a clear day you can see the entire Bay of Naples and the islands of Ischia and Procida.
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Underground
Up in Anacapri, Underground attracts a mixed crowd with its funk and house nights and festive beach parties. Near Underground, Caffè Michelangelo (Via G Orlandi 138, Anacapri) is a laid-back café good for people-watching.
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Faro
Rising above Punta Carena, Capri's rugged southwesterly point, is the Faro, Italy's second-tallest and most powerful lighthouse. From Anacapri a bus runs to the Faro every 20 minutes in summer and every 40 minutes in winter.
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Bagno di Tiberio
Bagno di Tiberio is a popular swimming spot west of Marina Grande where Tiberius once swam, although he wouldn't have had to pay to access the private beach as you will.
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