Restaurants in Calabria
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A
Gran Caffè Renzelli
This venerable cafe behind the duomo has been run by the same family since 1801 when the founder arrived from Naples and began baking gooey cakes and desserts (cakes start at around €1.20). Sink your teeth into torroncino torrefacto – a confection of sugar, spices and hazelnuts – in elegant 19th-century surroundings.
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B
L’Arco Vecchio
This family concern is deep in the old town in a 16th-century house. It has attractive low-ceilinged rooms, white tablecloths, pretty paintings and a glossy baby grand, and serves tasty, traditional dishes like lagane e ceci (pasta with chickpeas, garlic and oil).
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C
Bracieria
A bit too rustic to be true - think terracotta mugs instead of glasses - but the food is the real thing. Specialising in grilled meat and fish, it also serves an amazingly good sapori della Calabria antipasto comprising brilliant ricotta and chilli-hot bruschetta.
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Odisseas Ghirol
There’s not much elbow room at this pint-sized Greek restaurant with just a few scrubbed pine tables. But this is the place to come if you yearn for something different from traditional Calabrian cuisine, with authentic Greek dishes on the menu like moussaka and souvlaki.
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D
Ristorante Calabria Bella
This is one of the best choices in the old town, located beside the cathedral. Join the local businessmen and ladies-who-lunch tucking into Calabrian cuisine, such as grigliata mista di carne (mixed grilled meats), in a series of wood-beamed rooms.
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E
Per… Bacco!!
This smart yet informal restaurant has windows onto the square. Inside are exposed stone walls, vines and heavy beams. The reassuringly brief menu includes a generous antipasto (€8) and various baccalà (cod) dishes.
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F
Le Rose al Bicchiere
A wine bar with some delicious fresh local and organic produce on offer to accompany wines so inviting you’ll have to pour yourself onto the ferry. The local cheeses and desserts are particularly good.
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G
A Giulia
A tiny local restaurant with exposed stone walls, on a street just across the bridge, this is friendly and has daily pasta dishes and an antipasti buffet, and carafes of local wine.
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H
Baylik
Worth the slight trek, Baylik is friendly, and the calamari is so fresh your knife glides through it like butter; the spaghetti with clams is another winner.
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I
Cèsare
For Reggio’s best ice cream, visit Cèsare, a popular green kiosk at the end of the lungomare (seafront).
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Da Salvatore
Hidden down a narrow sidestreet, Da Salvatore is an unpretentious restaurant serving excellent local dishes and pizza. Try the salsiccia alla Palanca (sausages with greens), named in honour of a local football hero.
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