Sights in Basilicata
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Piazza del Duomo Cathedral
Apart from the impressive rose window above the door, the relatively sedate exterior of the 13th-century Puglian-Romanesque Piazza del Duomo Cathedral ill-prepares you for the neobaroque excess within: ornate carved capitals, sumptuously decorated chapels and tons of gilding everywhere. In the left aisle an altar dedicated to the Madonna della Bruna, Matera's patron saint, has a 13th-century Byzantine fresco of the Virgin Mary with Child.
With its 54m belltower and its position on the highest hill in town, the cathedral dominates the skyline. It was closed for restoration at the time of research.
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Museo della Scultura Contemporanea
The Museo della Scultura Contemporanea is a fabulous contemporary sculpture museum, housed in Palazzo Pomarici. Exhibits are artfully displayed in atmospherically lit caves, including contemporary representations of space, thought-provoking interpretations of Adam and Eve, and a sumo-wrestling St Francis. Upstairs – in grand upper rooms adorned with 17th-century frescoes – the collection tells the story of sculpture from 1880 to the present day and features artists such as Lynn Chadwick, one of the leading British sculptors after World War II.
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Cathedral
Set high up in the town, the subdued, graceful exterior of the 13th-century Puglian-Romanesque cathedral makes the neobaroque excess within all the more of a surprise: ornate capitals, sumptuous chapels and tons of gilding. Pediments mounted on its altars came from the temples at Metaponto. Matera’s patron saint, the Madonna della Bruna, is hidden within the older church, Santa Maria di Costantinopoli, which can be accessed from the cathedral if it’s open. Her saint’s day on 2 July is the region’s most important festival.
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Madonna delle Virtù and San Nicola del Greci
Highlights in the Sasso Barisano include the magnificent monastic complex of Madonna delle Virtù and San Nicola del Greci, composed of dozens of caves spread over two floors. The church of the Chiesa Madonna delle Virtù was built in the 10th or 11th century and restored in the 17th century. Above it, the simple church of Chiesa di San Nicola del Greci is rich in frescoes. The complex was used in 1213 by Benedictine monks of Palestinian origin. From late June to October a modern art exhibition is showcased in Madonna delle Virtù.
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Madonna delle Virtù
One of the most important monuments in Matera, the monastic complex of Madonna delle Virtù and San Nicola dei Greci is composed of dozens of caves spread over two floors. The church of the Madonna delle Virtù was built in the 10th or 11th century and restored in the 17th century.
Above it, the simple church of San Nicola dei Greci is rich in frescoes. The complex was used in 1213 by Benedictine monks of Palestinian origin. From late June to October a modern art exhibition is showcased in Madonna delle Virtù.
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Torre Apprezzami L'Asino
The curiously named Torre Apprezzami L'Asino is one of the six Spanish towers built in the 16th century as defence against pirates and invaders. It translates as 'Value my Donkey' tower. It is said to derive its name from an encounter between two travellers on a narrow cliff-side path. Coming from different directions and unable to pass each other they decided to throw the donkey of lesser value off the cliff.
The coastline is also dotted with numerous grottoes or sea caves, some of which can only be reached by boat.
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San Nicola dei Greci
One of the most important monuments in Matera, the monastic complex of Madonna delle Virtù and San Nicola dei Greci is composed of dozens of caves spread over two floors. The church of the Madonna delle Virtù was built in the 10th or 11th century and restored in the 17th century. Above it, the simple church of San Nicola dei Greci is rich in frescoes. The complex was used in 1213 by Benedictine monks of Palestinian origin. From late June to October a modern art exhibition is showcased in Madonna delle Virtù.
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Redentore
The Redentore is an omniscient presence in Maratea, an enormous marble Christ dominating the peak of Monte San Biagio (624m). It was built in 1965 by Bruno Innocenti and, in case you're wondering, it isn't as tall as the 30m Christ in Rio di Janeiro - but with its outstretched arms it is no less impressive. Drive up the winding 5km road from Maratea for a closer look at the statue which, curiously, has its back turned to one of the finest views of the Golfo di Policastro on the entire coastline.
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Fiumicello Beach
Maratea's chief attraction is its dramatic rocky coastline and stunning blue sea so outdoor action - such as it is - focuses on the beach. All the beaches are dotted with lidi (beach -bars and kiosks) where you can hire water-sport equipment (kayaks, windsurfers and pedal boats) as well as umbrellas and chairs. Don't expect long white sandy beaches; the sand here is coarse - even gravelly - and often greyish-black in colour. Fiumicello beach is a popular spot and has a decent stretch of sand.
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Centro Carlo Levi
A little south, in Palazzo Lanfranchi, the Museum of Modern Art houses the Centro Carlo Levi. Not only was Carlo Levi a writer, he was also an accomplished artist, his paintings maturing from earlier stylistic works to bold, broad-stroked primal images including the enormous mural Lucania '61 which depicts peasant life in Matera in biblical technicolour. The small bookshop sells maps of the sassi. Piazza Pascoli in front of the museum has breathtaking views of Sasso Caveoso.
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Chiesa di Santa Maria de Idris
Dug into Mount Errone (also known as the Idris rock), the rock church of Chiesa di Santa Maria de Idris has an unprepossessing façade but the narrow corridor communicating with the recessed church of San Giovanni in Monterrone is richly decorated with frescoes dating from the 12th to the 17th centuries. San Giovanni in Monterrone was originally used as a baptistery, later as a crypt, and until a few years ago contained human bones clothed in rotting rags.
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Castello Tramontano
Situated on a hill near the town centre, the 15th-century castle was left unfinished after the unpopular Count Tramontano was killed by Matera's townsmen after leaving the cathedral. Didn't he realize bedding every new bride on her wedding night was not going to endear him to the peasants? Four small tiles on Via Riscatto to the left of the cathedral paint a tale of the count's violent death. The castle is currently closed for restoration.
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Sasso Barisano
This is the larger of the two sassi districts, and many of the cave dwellings have been restored and converted into cosy houses, shops and restaurants. For interesting souvenirs, traditional whistles (cuccu) and ceramics visit the craft shops along Via Fiorentini. Continue on to Via Madonna delle Virtù for a panoramic view of the ravine and the caves dotting the opposite hillside.
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Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista
This 13th-century church is an interesting example of Romanesque architecture. Entry is through the side door as the original entrance and façade were incorporated into adjacent buildings during the 17th-century baroque additions and alterations. In 1926 the church was restored to its Romanesque simplicity. It was closed for restoration at the time of research.
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Church of San Giovanni
The recessed Church of San Giovanni in Monterrone is richly decorated with frescoes dating from the 12th to the 17th centuries. San Giovanni in Monterrone was originally used as a baptistery, later as a crypt, and until a few years ago contained human bones clothed in rotting rags. A narrow corridor communicates with Chiesa di Santa Maria de Idris.
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Pollino National Park
Italy’s largest national park, the Pollino National Park, straddles Basilicata and Calabria, for the park area that falls under that region). It acts like a rocky curtain separating the region from the rest of Italy and has the richest repository of flora and fauna in the south, covering 1960 sq km.
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Casa-Grotta di Vico Solitario
Casa-Grotta di Vico Solitario, which is off Via Buozzi, has an engaging 10-minute multilingual audio explanation describing the gruelling living conditions of a typical cave house, which included a manure room and a cordoned-off area for a donkey. It’s little wonder that the infant mortality rate was 50%.
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Belvedere
For a great photograph of the sassi take the Taranto-Laterza road and follow signs for the chiese rupestri. This road takes you to the Belvedere, the location of the crucifixion in The Passion of the Christ, which has fantastic views of the plunging ravine and Matera.
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Monasterio di Sant'Agostino
The monumental church and monastic complex of Monasterio di Sant'Agostino, built in the 16th century, served time as a military barracks and a home for the elderly. The church was built above the underground church of Saint William and is impressively situated on the edge of the Gravina.
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Convincio di San Antonio
Built around the 12th or 13th century, the Convincio di San Antonio is a complex of four rock churches grouped around a central courtyard. There are many frescoes in the churches but look for the wine spouts in the altars that tell of their 18th-century conversion into cellars.
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Museo Nazionale d’Arte Medievale e Moderna della Basilicata
On Piazzetta Pascoli is the Museo Nazionale d’Arte Medievale e Moderna della Basilicata. The stars of the show are Levi’s paintings, including the enormous mural, Lucania ’61, depicting peasant life in biblical Technicolour.
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Porto di Maratea
To round off a day of Mediterranean sun-worship head to the Porto, where you can eye off the sleek yachts and bright-blue fishing boats bobbing in the water. The swish restaurants and lively bars are the place for the chic-elite to see and be seen.
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Chiesa di San Francesco d'Assisi
This church has an impressive 17th-century baroque façade. It was originally built in the 13th century above two rock churches which can be accessed through the third chapel on the left. The church is currently closed for restoration.
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Museo Nazionale Ridola
The Museo Nazionale Ridola occupies the 17th-century convent of Santa Chiara. The impressive collection includes some remarkable Greek pottery, such as the Craterea Mascheroni, a huge urn over 1m high.
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Santuario di San Biagio
Originally built in the 6th to 7th century on the site of a pagan temple dedicated to Minerva, the remains of San Biagio, Maratea's patron saint, are preserved in a white marble urn inside.
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