Things to do in Matera
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Piazza del Duomo Cathedral
Apart from the impressive rose window above the door, the relatively sedate exterior of the 13th-century Puglian-Romanesque Piazza del Duomo Cathedral ill-prepares you for the neobaroque excess within: ornate carved capitals, sumptuously decorated chapels and tons of gilding everywhere. In the left aisle an altar dedicated to the Madonna della Bruna, Matera's patron saint, has a 13th-century Byzantine fresco of the Virgin Mary with Child.
With its 54m belltower and its position on the highest hill in town, the cathedral dominates the skyline. It was closed for restoration at the time of research.
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Museo della Scultura Contemporanea
The Museo della Scultura Contemporanea is a fabulous contemporary sculpture museum, housed in Palazzo Pomarici. Exhibits are artfully displayed in atmospherically lit caves, including contemporary representations of space, thought-provoking interpretations of Adam and Eve, and a sumo-wrestling St Francis. Upstairs – in grand upper rooms adorned with 17th-century frescoes – the collection tells the story of sculpture from 1880 to the present day and features artists such as Lynn Chadwick, one of the leading British sculptors after World War II.
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Cathedral
Set high up in the town, the subdued, graceful exterior of the 13th-century Puglian-Romanesque cathedral makes the neobaroque excess within all the more of a surprise: ornate capitals, sumptuous chapels and tons of gilding. Pediments mounted on its altars came from the temples at Metaponto. Matera’s patron saint, the Madonna della Bruna, is hidden within the older church, Santa Maria di Costantinopoli, which can be accessed from the cathedral if it’s open. Her saint’s day on 2 July is the region’s most important festival.
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Madonna delle Virtù and San Nicola del Greci
Highlights in the Sasso Barisano include the magnificent monastic complex of Madonna delle Virtù and San Nicola del Greci, composed of dozens of caves spread over two floors. The church of the Chiesa Madonna delle Virtù was built in the 10th or 11th century and restored in the 17th century. Above it, the simple church of Chiesa di San Nicola del Greci is rich in frescoes. The complex was used in 1213 by Benedictine monks of Palestinian origin. From late June to October a modern art exhibition is showcased in Madonna delle Virtù.
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Madonna delle Virtù
One of the most important monuments in Matera, the monastic complex of Madonna delle Virtù and San Nicola dei Greci is composed of dozens of caves spread over two floors. The church of the Madonna delle Virtù was built in the 10th or 11th century and restored in the 17th century.
Above it, the simple church of San Nicola dei Greci is rich in frescoes. The complex was used in 1213 by Benedictine monks of Palestinian origin. From late June to October a modern art exhibition is showcased in Madonna delle Virtù.
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San Nicola dei Greci
One of the most important monuments in Matera, the monastic complex of Madonna delle Virtù and San Nicola dei Greci is composed of dozens of caves spread over two floors. The church of the Madonna delle Virtù was built in the 10th or 11th century and restored in the 17th century. Above it, the simple church of San Nicola dei Greci is rich in frescoes. The complex was used in 1213 by Benedictine monks of Palestinian origin. From late June to October a modern art exhibition is showcased in Madonna delle Virtù.
reviewed
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Centro Carlo Levi
A little south, in Palazzo Lanfranchi, the Museum of Modern Art houses the Centro Carlo Levi. Not only was Carlo Levi a writer, he was also an accomplished artist, his paintings maturing from earlier stylistic works to bold, broad-stroked primal images including the enormous mural Lucania '61 which depicts peasant life in Matera in biblical technicolour. The small bookshop sells maps of the sassi. Piazza Pascoli in front of the museum has breathtaking views of Sasso Caveoso.
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Chiesa di Santa Maria de Idris
Dug into Mount Errone (also known as the Idris rock), the rock church of Chiesa di Santa Maria de Idris has an unprepossessing façade but the narrow corridor communicating with the recessed church of San Giovanni in Monterrone is richly decorated with frescoes dating from the 12th to the 17th centuries. San Giovanni in Monterrone was originally used as a baptistery, later as a crypt, and until a few years ago contained human bones clothed in rotting rags.
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Castello Tramontano
Situated on a hill near the town centre, the 15th-century castle was left unfinished after the unpopular Count Tramontano was killed by Matera's townsmen after leaving the cathedral. Didn't he realize bedding every new bride on her wedding night was not going to endear him to the peasants? Four small tiles on Via Riscatto to the left of the cathedral paint a tale of the count's violent death. The castle is currently closed for restoration.
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Ferula Viaggi
There are plenty of official guides to the sassi - the tourist office has details. Ferula Viaggi offers guided trekking and mountain-biking trips (with English-speaking guides), a range of tours in the sassi and the Murgia, as well as cultural, cooking and archaeological tours around Basilicata. It also rents bikes and is an excellent source of information on self-guided trips.
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Sasso Barisano
This is the larger of the two sassi districts, and many of the cave dwellings have been restored and converted into cosy houses, shops and restaurants. For interesting souvenirs, traditional whistles (cuccu) and ceramics visit the craft shops along Via Fiorentini. Continue on to Via Madonna delle Virtù for a panoramic view of the ravine and the caves dotting the opposite hillside.
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Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista
This 13th-century church is an interesting example of Romanesque architecture. Entry is through the side door as the original entrance and façade were incorporated into adjacent buildings during the 17th-century baroque additions and alterations. In 1926 the church was restored to its Romanesque simplicity. It was closed for restoration at the time of research.
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Church of San Giovanni
The recessed Church of San Giovanni in Monterrone is richly decorated with frescoes dating from the 12th to the 17th centuries. San Giovanni in Monterrone was originally used as a baptistery, later as a crypt, and until a few years ago contained human bones clothed in rotting rags. A narrow corridor communicates with Chiesa di Santa Maria de Idris.
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19a Buca Winery?
The question mark says it all – 13m below Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the past takes a futuristic twist. Suffering an identity crisis, this ultra-chic wine bar–restaurant-cafe-lounge has white space-pod chairs, a 19-hole indoor golf course surrounding an ancient cistern and an impressive wine cellar and degustation menu (meals €30).
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Ristorante Il Cantuccio
This quaint, homey trattoria near Piazza Vittorio Veneto is as welcoming as its chef and proprietor, Michael Lella. The menu is written in pencil and changes often. A recommended and interesting choice is the strascinate al peperone crusco e condite con crema di fagioli sarconi - tastes as poetic as it sounds.
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Trattoria Lucana
The favourite dish in the most popular restaurant in town is fettucine alla Mel Gibson, an interesting combination of pureed fava, mushrooms, rucola and tomato. The menu is as diverse as the clientele with a mouth-watering selection of homemade pastas and local meat dishes. Reservations are recommended.
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Casa-Grotta di Vico Solitario
Casa-Grotta di Vico Solitario, which is off Via Buozzi, has an engaging 10-minute multilingual audio explanation describing the gruelling living conditions of a typical cave house, which included a manure room and a cordoned-off area for a donkey. It’s little wonder that the infant mortality rate was 50%.
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Le Botteghe
In Sasso Barisano, this is a classy but informal restaurant in arched whitewashed rooms. Try delicious local specialities like fusilli mollica e crusco (pasta and fried bread with local sweet peppers) followed by the strascinate salsiccia e funghi (pasta with sausage and mushrooms).
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La Talpa
Down the road from Oi Marì, the cavernous dining rooms are moodily lit and atmospheric. A popular spot for romancing couples, the standard is very high, both for pizzas and specialities like capuntí con purea dí cicerchié, funghi e rucola (pasta with a bean, mushrooms and rocket sauce).
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Belvedere
For a great photograph of the sassi take the Taranto-Laterza road and follow signs for the chiese rupestri. This road takes you to the Belvedere, the location of the crucifixion in The Passion of the Christ, which has fantastic views of the plunging ravine and Matera.
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Monasterio di Sant'Agostino
The monumental church and monastic complex of Monasterio di Sant'Agostino, built in the 16th century, served time as a military barracks and a home for the elderly. The church was built above the underground church of Saint William and is impressively situated on the edge of the Gravina.
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La Stalla
A family-run osteria in a converted stable with rustic artefacts, farming pieces and a feeding trough carved in the rock. The menu is limited but the homemade pasta dell'osteria is recommended. Intimate indoors, the osteria opens onto an impressive outdoor terrace.
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Convincio di San Antonio
Built around the 12th or 13th century, the Convincio di San Antonio is a complex of four rock churches grouped around a central courtyard. There are many frescoes in the churches but look for the wine spouts in the altars that tell of their 18th-century conversion into cellars.
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Il Convivio
This rambling series of barrel-shaped rooms burrowed into the hillside serves up smashing local specialities, including great antipasti of salamis and cheese. There's only one menu in the entire restaurant and service can mean that meals here take some time.
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L'Arturo Enogastronomia
At the entrance to the sassi, this small deli, built from recycled materials, is a cool hang-out for students from the nearby Conservatorium of Music. A rustic wooden table fills the tiny back room; a great place to crowd around a bottle of wine.
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