Things to do in Amalfi Coast
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Villa Cimbrone
Some way east of Piazza Duomo, the early 20th-century Villa Cimbrone is worth a wander, if not for the 11th-century villa itself (now an upmarket hotel), then for the fabulous views from the delightful gardens. They’re best admired from an awe-inspiring terrace lined with classical-style statues and busts. Something of a bohemian retreat in its early days, the villa was frequented by Greta Garbo and her lover Leopold Stokowski as a secret hideaway. Other illustrious former guests included Virginia Woolf, Winston Churchill, DH Lawrence and Salvador Dalı.
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Cathedral
Forming the eastern flank of Piazza Duomo, the cathedral was originally built in 1086 but has since undergone various makeovers. The facade is 16th century, even if the central bronze door, one of only about two dozen in the country, is an 1179 original; the interior is a late 20th-century interpretation of what the original must once have looked like.
Of particular interest is the striking pulpit, supported by six twisting columns set on marble lions and decorated with flamboyant mosaics of peacocks, birds and dancing lions. Note also how the floor is tilted towards the square – a deliberate measure to enhance the perspective effect. To the right of the central nave,…
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Cathedral
You can’t miss the looming presence of Salerno’s impressive cathedral, widely considered to be the most beautiful medieval church in Italy. Built by the Normans in the 11th century and later aesthetically remodelled in the 18th century, it sustained severe damage in the 1980 earthquake. It is dedicated to San Matteo (St Matthew), whose remains were reputedly brought to the city in 954 and now lie beneath the main altar in the vaulted crypt.
Take special note of the magnificent main entrance, the 12th-century Porta dei Leoni, named after the marble lions at the foot of the stairway. It leads through to a beautiful harmonious courtyard, surrounded by graceful arches,…
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Ravello Concert Society
You don't have to come in high summer to catch a concert. Ravello's programme of classical music begins in March and continues until late October. It reaches its crescendo in June and September with the International Piano Festival and Chamber Music Weeks. Performances by top Italian and international musicians are world-class and the two venues (Villa Rufolo and the Convento di Santa Rosa in Conca dei Marini) are unforgettable.
Tickets, bookable by phone, fax or online. For further information and reservations, contact the Ravello Concert Society.
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Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea
You can’t miss Amalfi’s fabulous cathedral, sitting like a grande dame at the top of a sweeping flight of steps, generally crowded with idle tourists, boisterous students and chattering locals creating a great ‘wish-you-were-here’ holiday-pic backdrop.
The cathedral dates in part from the early 10th century and its striking stripy facade has been rebuilt twice, most recently at the end of the 19th century. Although the building is a hybrid, the Sicilian Arabic-Norman style predominates, particularly in the two-tone masonry and the 13th-century bell tower. The huge bronze doors also merit a look – the first of their type in Italy, they were commissioned by a local…
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Walks
Ravello is the starting point for numerous walks - some of which follow ancient paths through the surrounding Lattari mountains. If you've got the legs for it you can walk down to Minori, or, heading the other way, to Amalfi, via the ancient village of Scala. Once a flourishing religious centre with more than a hundred churches, Scala is now a sleepy place where the wind whistles through empty streets and gnarled locals go patiently about their daily chores.
Ask at the Ravello tourist office for further walking information.
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Medea
If you're after something ceramic but are fed up with the ubiquitous range of gaudy yellow fruit bowls, then look no further. At this gallery-cum-laboratory-cum-shop, you'll find an interesting selection of original handmade vases, lamps, animals, figurines, plates and tiles. Particularly outstanding are the huge red and black vases by ceramic artist Ugo Marano. And if you're wondering, yes, they cost a bomb - for a life-sized vase expect to fork out in the region of around €12000.
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Villa Rufolo
To the south of Ravello’s cathedral, a 14th-century tower marks the entrance to this villa, famed for its beautiful cascading gardens. Created by a Scotsman, Scott Neville Reid, in 1853, they are truly magnificent, commanding celestial panoramic views packed with exotic colours, artistically crumbling towers and luxurious blooms. On seeing the gardens on 26 May 1880, Wagner was moved to write: ‘Finally, the enchanted garden of Klingsor [setting for the second act of the opera Parsifal] has been found’.
The villa was built in the 13th century for the wealthy Rufolo dynasty and was home to several popes as well as King Robert of Anjou. Today the gardens are used to…
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Ristorante Palazzo della Marra
Sit down to innovative regional cuisine under the vaulted ceiling of this tastefully restored 12th-century palazzo. The menu strikes a good balance between seafood and meat with dishes ranging from paccheri with sword fish and prawns to smoked duck with fennel cream and beef fillet in thyme. Desserts are also given a creative touch, as in tiramisu with cream of pistachio. The lunchtime menu, comprising a pasta, main course and side dish, is good value.
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Grotta dello Smeraldo
Four kilometres west of Amalfi, Conca dei Marini is home to the Grotta dello Smeraldo, a haunting cave named after the eerie emerald colour that emanates from the seawater. SITA buses regularly pass the car park above the cave entrance (from where you take a lift or stairs down to the rowing boats). Alternatively, boat service is available from Amalfi (€14 return) at 9am and 3.30pm. Allow 1.5 hours for the round trip.
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Da Vincenzo
Superbly prepared dishes are served here by the third generation of restaurateurs. The emphasis is on fish dishes, which range from the adventurous, like grilled octopus tentacles skewered with deep-fried artichokes, to seasonal pasta dishes such as spaghetti with broad beans and fresh ricotta. Enjoy twanging Neapolitan guitarists during the summer months and be sure to try co-owner Marcella’s legendary desserts, considered the best in town. Reservations recommended.
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Castello di Arechi
Hop on bus 19 from Piazza XXIV Maggio to visit Salerno’s most famous landmark, the forbidding Castello di Arechi, dramatically positioned 263m above the city. Originally a Byzantine fort, it was built by the Lombard duke of Benevento, Arechi II, in the 8th century and subsequently modified by the Normans and Aragonese, most recently in the 16th century.
The views of the Gulf of Salerno and the city rooftops are spectacular; you can also visit a permanent collection of ceramics, arms and coins. If you are here during the summer, ask the tourist office for a schedule of the annual series of concerts staged here.
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Cumpà Cosimo
If you're looking for some honest down-to-earth Italian grub, you can't do much better than this popular trattoria. An informal family affair - meat comes from the family butcher, vegetables and fruit are homegrown, and the house wine is homebrew - it serves excellent handmade pasta, tasty gnocchi and some fine main courses. House favourites include rabbit with tomatoes and grilled crayfish.
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Osteria da Luisella
Great food, great people-watching and an atmospheric setting make this a winner. Grab a table under the arches and sit back to some fresh-off-the-boat seafood. The menu varies, but if they’re on, the warm seafood salad and the cassuola (octopus stew) are scrumptious. Herbivores might go for the caporalessa, a tasty baked concoction of aubergines, tomatoes and cheese.
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Pizza Margherita
It looks like a bland, modern canteen but this is, in fact, one of Salerno’s most popular lunch spots. Locals regularly queue for the lavish lunchtime buffet that, on any given day, might include buffalo mozzarella, salami, mussels in various guises and a range of salads.
If that doesn’t appeal, the daily lunchtime menu (pasta, main course, salad and half a litre of water) is chalked up on a blackboard, or there’s the regular menu of pizzas, pastas, salads and main courses
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Trattoria da Baracca
Touristy and over the top with its stripy blue awnings and maritime paraphernalia, this cheery trattoria serves excellent seafood. The scialatiella con vongole e zucchini (pasta ribbons with clams and courgettes) is delicious and the fish soup something of a local celebrity. If you don't like fish, play safe with lasagne and gnocchi alla sorrentina.
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Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta
This church is the most famous and – let’s face it – pretty much the only major sight in Positano. If you are visiting at a weekend you will probably have the added perk of seeing a wedding; it’s one of the most popular churches in the area for exchanging vows.
Step inside to see a delightful classical interior, with pillars topped with gilded Ionic capitals and winged cherubs peeking from above every arch. Above the main altar is a 13th-century Byzantine Black Madonna and Child. During restoration works of the square and the crypt, a Roman villa was discovered; still under excavation, it is closed to the public.
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Al Convento
Enjoy the evocative setting of this restaurant set in former church cloisters with its original, albeit faded, 17th-century frescoes. Al Convento is an excellent spot to tuck into some local fish specialities. You can eat tagliata di tonna alle erbe (strips of lightly grilled tuna with herbs) as an antipasto, or anchovies prepared in various ways. Particularly delicious is the spaghetti served with anchovies and wild fennel. For dessert, try the deliciously decadent chocolate cake with ricotta and cream.
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Lo Guarracino
On the scenic path connecting Positano’s two beaches, this a memorable place to eat even if you’re more likely to remember the views than the straightforward food. The menu is seafood-heavy, with dishes like tagliatelle verdi ai frutti di mare (green pasta with seafood). Pizzas and steaks add variety. It’s popular, so try to book ahead.
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Ristorante Bruno
Don’t let the underwhelming decor fool you – this unassuming restaurant serves superb seafood. Bag a table across the street and enjoy the view of Positano while swooning over house specialities like the antipasto of marinated fish with vegetables, orange and Parmesan; for a main course try the grilled fish with a wedge of local lemon.
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Profumi della Costiera
The limoncello produced and sold here is made with local lemons. Known to experts as sfusato amalfitano, they’re enormous – about double the size of a standard lemon. The tot is made according to traditional recipes, so there are no preservatives and no colouring. And it’s not just the owners who say so – all bottles carry the IGP (Indicazione Geografica Proteta; Protected Geographical Indication) quality mark. You may just see the bottling in progress when you visit; it takes place just at the back of the shop.
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Trattoria Il Mulino
A TV-in-the-corner, kids-running-between-the-tables sort of place, this is about as authentic a trattoria as you’ll find in Amalfi. The menu features the usual pizzas, pasta and seafood, but the food is tasty and the prices honest. The scialatiella alla pescatore (pasta ribbons with prawns, mussels, tomato and parsley) is fabulous.
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Spiaggia Grande
It's a short hop to the nearby beach, Spiaggia Grande. Although it's no-one's dream beach, with greyish sand covered by legions of brightly coloured umbrellas, the water's clean and the setting is memorable. Hiring a chair and umbrella in the fenced-off areas costs around €17 per person per day but the crowded public areas are free.
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Ristorante Santa Lucia
The surrounding Via Roma area may be one of the city’s trendiest, but there’s nothing remotely flash about the delicious seafood served up here. Dishes such as linguine ai frutti di mare (flat spaghetti with seafood) and chargrilled cuttlefish may not be original but taste quite exceptional – as do the uppercrust wood-fired pizzas.
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Amalfi Family Adventure
8 days (Naples to Amalfi)
by G Adventures
Eager to expose the kids to Italian cuisine that doesn’t come in a cardboard box in 30 minutes or less? Take ‘em to the Amalfi Coast. Long a secluded hideaway…Not LP reviewed
from USD$1,189