Sights in Amalfi Coast
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Villa Cimbrone
Some way east of Piazza Duomo, the early 20th-century Villa Cimbrone is worth a wander, if not for the 11th-century villa itself (now an upmarket hotel), then for the fabulous views from the delightful gardens. They’re best admired from an awe-inspiring terrace lined with classical-style statues and busts. Something of a bohemian retreat in its early days, the villa was frequented by Greta Garbo and her lover Leopold Stokowski as a secret hideaway. Other illustrious former guests included Virginia Woolf, Winston Churchill, DH Lawrence and Salvador Dalı.
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Cathedral
Forming the eastern flank of Piazza Duomo, the cathedral was originally built in 1086 but has since undergone various makeovers. The facade is 16th century, even if the central bronze door, one of only about two dozen in the country, is an 1179 original; the interior is a late 20th-century interpretation of what the original must once have looked like.
Of particular interest is the striking pulpit, supported by six twisting columns set on marble lions and decorated with flamboyant mosaics of peacocks, birds and dancing lions. Note also how the floor is tilted towards the square – a deliberate measure to enhance the perspective effect. To the right of the central nave,…
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Cathedral
You can’t miss the looming presence of Salerno’s impressive cathedral, widely considered to be the most beautiful medieval church in Italy. Built by the Normans in the 11th century and later aesthetically remodelled in the 18th century, it sustained severe damage in the 1980 earthquake. It is dedicated to San Matteo (St Matthew), whose remains were reputedly brought to the city in 954 and now lie beneath the main altar in the vaulted crypt.
Take special note of the magnificent main entrance, the 12th-century Porta dei Leoni, named after the marble lions at the foot of the stairway. It leads through to a beautiful harmonious courtyard, surrounded by graceful arches,…
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Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea
You can’t miss Amalfi’s fabulous cathedral, sitting like a grande dame at the top of a sweeping flight of steps, generally crowded with idle tourists, boisterous students and chattering locals creating a great ‘wish-you-were-here’ holiday-pic backdrop.
The cathedral dates in part from the early 10th century and its striking stripy facade has been rebuilt twice, most recently at the end of the 19th century. Although the building is a hybrid, the Sicilian Arabic-Norman style predominates, particularly in the two-tone masonry and the 13th-century bell tower. The huge bronze doors also merit a look – the first of their type in Italy, they were commissioned by a local…
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Villa Rufolo
To the south of Ravello’s cathedral, a 14th-century tower marks the entrance to this villa, famed for its beautiful cascading gardens. Created by a Scotsman, Scott Neville Reid, in 1853, they are truly magnificent, commanding celestial panoramic views packed with exotic colours, artistically crumbling towers and luxurious blooms. On seeing the gardens on 26 May 1880, Wagner was moved to write: ‘Finally, the enchanted garden of Klingsor [setting for the second act of the opera Parsifal] has been found’.
The villa was built in the 13th century for the wealthy Rufolo dynasty and was home to several popes as well as King Robert of Anjou. Today the gardens are used to…
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Grotta dello Smeraldo
Four kilometres west of Amalfi, Conca dei Marini is home to the Grotta dello Smeraldo, a haunting cave named after the eerie emerald colour that emanates from the seawater. SITA buses regularly pass the car park above the cave entrance (from where you take a lift or stairs down to the rowing boats). Alternatively, boat service is available from Amalfi (€14 return) at 9am and 3.30pm. Allow 1.5 hours for the round trip.
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Castello di Arechi
Hop on bus 19 from Piazza XXIV Maggio to visit Salerno’s most famous landmark, the forbidding Castello di Arechi, dramatically positioned 263m above the city. Originally a Byzantine fort, it was built by the Lombard duke of Benevento, Arechi II, in the 8th century and subsequently modified by the Normans and Aragonese, most recently in the 16th century.
The views of the Gulf of Salerno and the city rooftops are spectacular; you can also visit a permanent collection of ceramics, arms and coins. If you are here during the summer, ask the tourist office for a schedule of the annual series of concerts staged here.
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Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta
This church is the most famous and – let’s face it – pretty much the only major sight in Positano. If you are visiting at a weekend you will probably have the added perk of seeing a wedding; it’s one of the most popular churches in the area for exchanging vows.
Step inside to see a delightful classical interior, with pillars topped with gilded Ionic capitals and winged cherubs peeking from above every arch. Above the main altar is a 13th-century Byzantine Black Madonna and Child. During restoration works of the square and the crypt, a Roman villa was discovered; still under excavation, it is closed to the public.
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Spiaggia Grande
It's a short hop to the nearby beach, Spiaggia Grande. Although it's no-one's dream beach, with greyish sand covered by legions of brightly coloured umbrellas, the water's clean and the setting is memorable. Hiring a chair and umbrella in the fenced-off areas costs around €17 per person per day but the crowded public areas are free.
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Duomo
Once a flourishing religious centre with more than a hundred churches, Scala is now a sleepy place where the wind whistles through empty streets and gnarled locals go patiently about their daily chores. In the central square, the Romanesque Duomo retains some of its 12th-century solemnity.
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Museo Archeologico Provinciale
The province’s main archaeological museum has been closed for restoration for several years now with no approximate opening date available. Check at the tourist office before turning up here. If it is open, don’t miss the highlight: a 1st-century-BC bronze head of Apollo, discovered in the Gulf of Salerno in 1930. One can only wonder what else lies buried in the surrounding seabed.
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Arsenale
Harking back to Amalfi’s days as a great maritime republic, the cavernous Arsenale was once the town’s main shipbuilding depot. Today it’s used to host temporary exhibitions – opening hours vary according to what’s on.
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Museo Pinacoteca Provinciale
Art enthusiasts should seek out the Museo Pinacoteca Provinciale, located deep in the heart of the historic quarter. Spread throughout six galleries, this museum houses an interesting art collection dating from the Renaissance right up to the first half of the 20th century.
There are some fine canvases by local boy Andrea Sabatini da Salerno, who was notably influenced by Leonardo da Vinci, plus a diverse selection of works by foreign artists who were permanent residents around the Amalfi Coast. These include intricate etchings by the Austrian-born artist Peter Willburger (1942–98) and a colourful embroidered picture of a local market by Polish artist Irene Kowaliska.…
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Museo della Carta
Amalfi’s paper museum is housed in a 13th-century paper mill (the oldest in Europe). It lovingly preserves the original paper presses, which are still in full working order, as you’ll see during the 15-minute guided tour (in English) which explains the original cotton-based paper production and the later wood pulp manufacturing. Afterwards you may well be inspired to pick up some of the stationery sold in the gift shop, alongside calligraphy sets and paper pressed with flowers.
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Museo Civico
In the town hall, the one-room Museo Civico contains the Tavole Amalfitane, an ancient manuscript draft of Amalfi’s maritime code, and other historical documents.
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Regatta of the Four Ancient Maritime Republics
The Regatta of the Four Ancient Maritime Republics, which rotates between Amalfi, Venice, Pisa and Genoa, is held on the first Sunday in June. Amalfi's turn comes round again in 2009.
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Chiostro del Paradiso
To the left of Amalfi’s cathedral porch, these magnificent Moorish-style cloisters were built in 1266 to house the tombs of Amalfi’s prominent citizens; 120 marble columns support a series of tall, slender Arabic arches around a central garden. From the cloisters, go through to the Basilica del Crocefisso, where you’ll find various religious artefacts displayed in glass cabinets and some fading 14th-century frescoes. Beneath lies the 1206 crypt containing the remains of Sant’Andrea.
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Skin-Divers Pilgrimage
Every 24 December and 6 January, skin-divers from all over Italy make a pilgrimage to the ceramic presepe submerged in the Grotta dello Smeraldo.
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Palazzo Murat
Just west of the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta church, this palazzo is now a luxury hotel. It may be beyond your budget to stay but you can still visit the stunning flower-filled courtyard, have a drink in the vine-draped patio and contemplate the short, tragic life of flamboyant Joachim Murat, the 18th-century French king of Naples who had the palace built as a summer residence for himself and his wife, Caroline Bonaparte.
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Museo Didattico della Scuola Medica Salernitana
Slap bang in Salerno’s historic centre, this engaging museum deploys 3-D and touch screen technology to explore the teachings and wince-inducing procedures of Salerno’s once-famous, now-defunct medical institute. Established around the 9th century, the school was the most important centre of medical knowledge in medieval Europe, reaching the height of its prestige in the 11th century. It was closed in the early 19th century.
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Grotta dello Smeraldo
Four kilometres west of Amalfi, Conca dei Marini is home to one of the coast’s most popular sights. Named after the eerie emerald colour that emanates from the water, this grotto is well worth a visit. Stalactites hang down from the 24m-high ceiling, while stalagmites grow up to 10m tall. Each year, on 24 December and 6 January, skin-divers from all over Italy make their traditional pilgrimage to the ceramic presepe (nativity scene) submerged beneath the water.
SITA buses regularly pass the car park above the cave entrance (from where you take a lift or stairs down to the rowing boats). Alternatively, Coop Sant’Andrea runs two daily boats from Amalfi (€15 return) at 9am…
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Franco Senesi
Nestled between the colourful boutiques and lemon-themed ceramics shops, Franco Senesi is a light and airy exhibition space with several rooms showcasing over 20 Italian modern artists and sculptors. You can walk around here without being hassled, admiring (and buying?) art works that are sufficiently varied to suit most tastes.
The art works range from exquisite life drawings to colourful surrealistic landscapes and edgy abstract sculptures. Shipping can be arranged.
In early 2012, the owners opened a contemporary art gallery, The White Room, a few doors away, which displays some striking cast brass sculptures by Venetian sculptor Gianfranco Meggiato, among other…
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Auditorium Oscar Niemeyer
Located just below the main approach to town, this modern building, which follows the natural slope of the hill, has attracted a love-it-or-hate-it controversy in town. Designed by the renowned Brazilian architect, Oscar Niemeyer, it is characterised by the sinuous profile of a wave and approached via a rectangular exterior courtyard, which is typically the site for temporary exhibitions of world class sculpture. The auditorium is a venue for concerts and exhibitions; check the website for an update.
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