Restaurants in Amalfi Coast
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Ristorante Palazzo della Marra
Sit down to innovative regional cuisine under the vaulted ceiling of this tastefully restored 12th-century palazzo. The menu strikes a good balance between seafood and meat with dishes ranging from paccheri with sword fish and prawns to smoked duck with fennel cream and beef fillet in thyme. Desserts are also given a creative touch, as in tiramisu with cream of pistachio. The lunchtime menu, comprising a pasta, main course and side dish, is good value.
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Da Vincenzo
Superbly prepared dishes are served here by the third generation of restaurateurs. The emphasis is on fish dishes, which range from the adventurous, like grilled octopus tentacles skewered with deep-fried artichokes, to seasonal pasta dishes such as spaghetti with broad beans and fresh ricotta. Enjoy twanging Neapolitan guitarists during the summer months and be sure to try co-owner Marcella’s legendary desserts, considered the best in town. Reservations recommended.
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Cumpà Cosimo
If you're looking for some honest down-to-earth Italian grub, you can't do much better than this popular trattoria. An informal family affair - meat comes from the family butcher, vegetables and fruit are homegrown, and the house wine is homebrew - it serves excellent handmade pasta, tasty gnocchi and some fine main courses. House favourites include rabbit with tomatoes and grilled crayfish.
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Osteria da Luisella
Great food, great people-watching and an atmospheric setting make this a winner. Grab a table under the arches and sit back to some fresh-off-the-boat seafood. The menu varies, but if they’re on, the warm seafood salad and the cassuola (octopus stew) are scrumptious. Herbivores might go for the caporalessa, a tasty baked concoction of aubergines, tomatoes and cheese.
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Pizza Margherita
It looks like a bland, modern canteen but this is, in fact, one of Salerno’s most popular lunch spots. Locals regularly queue for the lavish lunchtime buffet that, on any given day, might include buffalo mozzarella, salami, mussels in various guises and a range of salads.
If that doesn’t appeal, the daily lunchtime menu (pasta, main course, salad and half a litre of water) is chalked up on a blackboard, or there’s the regular menu of pizzas, pastas, salads and main courses
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Trattoria da Baracca
Touristy and over the top with its stripy blue awnings and maritime paraphernalia, this cheery trattoria serves excellent seafood. The scialatiella con vongole e zucchini (pasta ribbons with clams and courgettes) is delicious and the fish soup something of a local celebrity. If you don't like fish, play safe with lasagne and gnocchi alla sorrentina.
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Al Convento
Enjoy the evocative setting of this restaurant set in former church cloisters with its original, albeit faded, 17th-century frescoes. Al Convento is an excellent spot to tuck into some local fish specialities. You can eat tagliata di tonna alle erbe (strips of lightly grilled tuna with herbs) as an antipasto, or anchovies prepared in various ways. Particularly delicious is the spaghetti served with anchovies and wild fennel. For dessert, try the deliciously decadent chocolate cake with ricotta and cream.
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Lo Guarracino
On the scenic path connecting Positano’s two beaches, this a memorable place to eat even if you’re more likely to remember the views than the straightforward food. The menu is seafood-heavy, with dishes like tagliatelle verdi ai frutti di mare (green pasta with seafood). Pizzas and steaks add variety. It’s popular, so try to book ahead.
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Ristorante Bruno
Don’t let the underwhelming decor fool you – this unassuming restaurant serves superb seafood. Bag a table across the street and enjoy the view of Positano while swooning over house specialities like the antipasto of marinated fish with vegetables, orange and Parmesan; for a main course try the grilled fish with a wedge of local lemon.
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Trattoria Il Mulino
A TV-in-the-corner, kids-running-between-the-tables sort of place, this is about as authentic a trattoria as you’ll find in Amalfi. The menu features the usual pizzas, pasta and seafood, but the food is tasty and the prices honest. The scialatiella alla pescatore (pasta ribbons with prawns, mussels, tomato and parsley) is fabulous.
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Ristorante Santa Lucia
The surrounding Via Roma area may be one of the city’s trendiest, but there’s nothing remotely flash about the delicious seafood served up here. Dishes such as linguine ai frutti di mare (flat spaghetti with seafood) and chargrilled cuttlefish may not be original but taste quite exceptional – as do the uppercrust wood-fired pizzas.
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Da Costantino
It might not seem so, but it’s worth the slog up to this bustling trattoria about 300m north of Hostel Brikette. One of the few authentic places in town, it serves honest, down-to-earth Italian grub, including excellent pizzas and delicious scialatielli (ribboned pasta) served with aubergines, tomato and mozzarella.
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Ristorante La Caravella
The regional food here has recently earned the restaurant a Michelin star with dishes that offer nouvelle zap, like black ravioli with cuttlefish ink, scampi and ricotta, or that are unabashedly simple, like the catch of the day served grilled on lemon leaves. This is one of the few places in Amalfi where you pay for the food rather than the location, which in this case is far from spectacular, sandwiched between the rushing traffic of the road and the old arsenale. But that doesn’t worry the discreet, knowledgeable crowd who eat here. Wine aficionados are likely to find something to try on the 15,000-label list. Reservations essential.
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Il Saraceno d’Oro
A busy, bustling place, the Saracen’s blend of cheery service, uncomplicated food and reasonable prices continues to please the punters. The pizzas are good, the pasta’s tasty and the desserts are sticky and sweet. The complimentary end-of-meal glass of limoncello makes for a pleasing epilogue.
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Da Salvatore
Located just before the bus stop and the Albergo Ristorante Garden, Da Salvatore has nothing special by way of decor, but the view – from both the dining room and the large terrace – is very special indeed. Dishes include creative options like tender squid on a bed of pureed chickpeas with spicy peperoncino. In the evening, part of the restaurant is transformed into an informal pizzeria, serving some of the best wood-fired pizza you will taste anywhere this side of Naples.
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Ristorante Max
Here you can peruse the artwork (in lieu of a sea view) while choosing your dish. This established restaurant is popular with local ladies who lunch, with a menu including set meals and specials of the day, such as sauteéd clams and mussels, and zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta and salmon. Cooking courses are available in summer.
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Pinocchio
Join the locals for heaping plates of no-nonsense regional grub. Seafood is the speciality, but there’s also a selection of decent meats, including sausages and scaloppine (breaded veal) in a creamy mushroom sauce. In summer, tables are set outside.
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Trattoria San Giuseppe
Whether for huge helpings of pasta or wood-fired pizza, this back-alley trattoria is an atmospheric spot. The occasional whiff of antique drains might be a bit too atmospheric for those dining outside, but you can always try the fan-cooled interior.
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Dolcería dell’ Antíco Portico
Located under the arches, this place is run by celebrated pastry chef Tiziano Mita, who has worked in Paris and Milan and at the revered Palazzo Sasso in Ravello. Mita applies a contemporary twist to traditional sweet treats, like sfogliatella in the form of a trullo (conical roofed building unique to Puglia). Olive-oil biscuits, almond pastries and lemon cream cake are similarly delicate and delicious. They also do coffee and have a couple of tables outside.
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Ristorante Pizzeria Vittoria
Come here for exceptional pizza with some 16 choices on the menu, including the Ravellese, with cherry tomatoes, mozzarella, basil and courgettes. Other dishes include lasagne with red pumpkin, smoked mozzarella and porcini mushrooms, and an innovative chickpea and cod antipasto. The atmosphere is one of subdued elegance, with a small outside terrace and grainy historical pics of Ravello on the walls.
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Rossellinis
Palazzo Sasso has a 20m swimming pool which commands great views and its Michelin-starred restaurant, Rossellinis, is one of the best in town.
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Take Away da Nino
Fast food Ravello-style – come here for takeaway pizza and crunchy fried nibbles.
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Vicolo della Neve
A city institution, located on one of the scruffiest streets in the city, Vicolo della Neve is the archetypal centro storico trattoria with brick arches, fake frescoes and walls hung with works by local artists. The menu is, similarly, unwaveringly authentic, with pizzas and calzones (pizzas folded over to form a pie), peperoni ripieni (stuffed peppers) and a top-notch parmigiana di melanzane (baked aubergine with tomatoes and Parmesan). It can get incredibly busy, so reservations are a wise idea.
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Sant’Andrea
There’s an earthy southern Italian atmosphere here, with its outside terrace surrounded by historic houses decorated with washing hung out to dry. Choices are more innovative than you would expect and include seafood dishes, such as squid with porcini mushrooms or cuttlefish accompanied by creamed vegetables. The white-truffle ice cream makes a sexy, sweet finale. The owners run the adjacent B&B.
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Ristorante il Saraceno d’Oro
There is something so typically Italian about the setup of this restaurant, where waiters have to dash to and fro across the road with their dishes. But in the evening the traffic is light and the wacky layout will only add to the delight of eating here. The pizza and pasta choices are good; the contorni (vegetables) excellent. Splurge on the legendary profiteroles in chocolate sauce for dessert.
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