Things to do in Abruzzo & Molise
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Pizzeria Trattoria Vecchio Mulino
This old-school eatery is a good bet for a classic wood-fired pizza, cheesy antipastos and chargrilled hunks of pork and lamb. In summer the pretty streetside terrace provides a good perch to people-watch as you wait for your order.
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Saepinum
One of Molise’s hidden treasures, the Roman ruins of Saepinum are among the best preserved and least visited in the country. Unlike Pompeii and Ostia Antica, which were both major ports, Saepinum was a small provincial town of no great importance. It was originally established by the Samnites but the Romans conquered it in 293 BC, paving the way for an economic boom in the 1st and 2nd centuries AD. Some 700 years later, it was sacked by Arab invaders. The walled town retains three of its four original gates and its two main roads, the cardusmaximus and the decamanus. Highlights include the forum, basilica and theatre.
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Basilica di Santa Maria di Collemaggio
The striking Basilica di Santa Maria di Collemaggio is Abruzzo's most famous church. Its square pink-and-white quilt-pattern façade is a beautiful marriage of architectural styles - the intricate rose windows are typically Gothic while the imposing central portal is pure Romanesque. In contrast to the bright exterior, the interior is gloomy and stark.
Consecrated in 1288, the basilica became an important religious centre in 1294 when Pietro del Morrone was crowned Pope Celestine V here. As founder of the Celestine order, he was canonised in 1303, seven years after his death, and his tomb lies inside the basilica.
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La Perdonanza
L'Aquila's big annual event is La Perdonanza on 28 August. This colourful celebration goes back to 1294 when Pietro del Morrone was crowned Pope Celestine V in the Basilica di Santa Maria di Collemaggio. In an act of largesse, Celestine granted plenary indulgence to everyone present who had confessed and taken Communion. Since then, every 28 August, the pardon has been repeated. The grand pardon is preceded by a 1000-strong costumed procession and a week of highly charged celebrations.
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Palazzo dell’Annunziata
The most impressive of the palazzi on Corso Ovidio is the 16th-century Palazzo dell’Annunziata, a harmonious blend of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. Inside, the Museo Civico has a small collection of Roman mosaics and Renaissance sculpture, and the Museo Archeologico in situ showcases a 1st-century-BC Roman villa. At the time of research, both museums were closed on account of damage sustained in the 2009 earthquake.
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Forte Spagnolo
With the Gran Sasso d'Italia looming over, L'Aquila's 16th-century castle is a foreboding sight. Known locally as the Forte Spagnolo, it was built after an unsuccessful rebellion against the city's Spanish rulers in 1528. The austere geometry, steep blanched battlements and now-empty moat were designed by the Valencian architect Pirro Luis Scrivà and commissioned by Don Pedro de Toledo, the Spanish viceroy of Naples and de facto ruler of L'Aquila.
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Fountain of the 99 Spouts
The city's most emblematic sight, the Fountain of the 99 Spouts is a misnomer - there are, in fact, only 93 spewing gargoyles. Surrounded by a wall of pink-and-white stone, the 13th-century fountain is one of the few supplies of fresh water that has proved reliable throughout the city's earthquake-prone past. The fountain lies to the west of the centre, near the Porta Riviera, one of the city's four medieval gates.
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Abbazia di San Vincenzo al Volturno
A 30km drive northwest of Isernia, near Castel San Vincenzo, the Abbazia di San Vincenzo al Volturno is famous for its cycle of 9th-century frescoes by Epifanio (824–842). The abbey, one of the foremost monastic and cultural centres in 9th-century Europe, is now home to a community of Benedictine nuns.
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Hosteria dell’Arco
You’ll remember this place – superb food, lovely, rustic surroundings, laid-back atmosphere and friendly service, all for the princely sum of €20. First up is the fabulous antipasto buffet, prepared from scratch every night, followed by delicious grilled lamb and scrumptious home-made desserts.
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Cattedrale di San Basso
From Castello Svevo, follow the road up and you come to Piazza Duomo and Termoli’s majestic 12th-century Cattedrale di San Basso. A masterpiece of Puglian-Romanesque architecture, the cream-coloured facade features a striking round-arched central portal.
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Ristorante Gli Archetti
Housed in the cellar of a Renaissance palazzo, this smart restaurant is highly rated. The menu is seasonal, but typical dishes include prosciutto cotto con l’aceto di mela (cured ham with apple vinegar) and filetto al montepulciano (fillet steak with red wine).
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Centro Ippico Vallecupa
Horse riding is a wonderful way to see Parco Nazionale d'Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise. Between May and October, the Centro Ippico Vallecupa organises riding lessons and guided rides of various difficulties, costing from €15 for a one-hour ride to €60 for a whole day.
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Polo Museale Santa Chiara
On Piazza Garibaldi, housed in a former convent, is the Polo Museale Santa Chiara, a small museum with an eclectic collection of religious and contemporary art. A highlight is a fascinating presepe (nativity scene) depicting 19th-century Sulmona.
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Basilica di San Bernardino
To the north, the 15th-century Basilica di San Bernardino features a lavish three-tiered Renaissance façade and an opulent baroque interior. Of note are the detailed reliefs on San Bernadino's mausoleum. San Bernadino, originally from Siena, died in L'Aquila in 1444.
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La Matriciana
A bustling trattoria with a no-frills approach and an appreciative clientele. Huge steaming bowls of pasta and filling meat dishes are the order of the day along with robust red wine and unpretentious desserts. According to Italian custom, fish is served on Fridays.
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Trattoria del Giaguaro
Even on a wet Monday in March this place is packed at lunchtime. Locals come here for tried and tested staples such as ossobuco (veal shank) and lasagne. For a meat-free main course the grilled scamorza (smoked cheese) is a tasty alternative.
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Confetteria Maria di Vito
A pack of confetti is the traditional Sulmona souvenir. Pick one up at Confetteria Maria Di Vito along with a bar of torrone, a chewy nougat confection. Confetti costs from €4 for a small packet to €10 for a 2kg bag.
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Samnite theatre-temple complex
About 30km northeast of Isernia, outside Pietrabbondante, the remains of a 2nd-century-BC Samnite theatre-temple complex reward a visit, as much as anything for its panoramic setting high above the rolling green countryside.
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Ristorante Da Nicolino
Highly regarded by locals, this discreet restaurant serves the best seafood in Termoli. It’s all exceptional, but if you really want to push the boat out, order the show-stopping brodetto di pesce (fish soup) served in a big earthenware tureen.
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Centro Lupo
Seventeen kilometres from Pescasseroli, Civitella Alfedena (elevation 1121m) lies on the Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise’s eastern edge above Lago di Barrea. Here, you can study the local flora and fauna at the Centro Lupo.
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Trattoria da Armando
If you’re after a quick, no-fuss lunch, this straight-up trattoria does the job. There’s a range of panini as well as the usual pasta and meat dishes. And while it’s all very basic, the food is as good as you’d get in many pricier joints.
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Trattoria da Rino
With nonna in the kitchen and the grandkids running about, a meal here is about as close as you'll get to eating in a local home. There are no surprises on the menu, just hefty portions of warming Abruzzo classics and basic red wine.
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Ecotur
Hiking opportunities abound, whether you want to go it alone or with an organised group. There are numerous outfits offering guided excursions including Ecotur, which organises treks, bike rides and various other excursions.
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Hostaria del Pavone
With its brick barrel-vaulted ceiling and nautical knick-knacks, this highly regarded restaurant is a great place for creative seafood. Of the menu staples, the standout dish is brodetto alla vastese, Vasto’s signature fish soup.
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Museo Nazionale d'Abruzzo
Forte Spagnolo houses the Museo Nazionale d'Abruzzo and its collection of local archaeological finds and religious art. The surprise highlight is the skeleton of a million-year-old mammoth, unearthed near the city in 1954.
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