Things to do in Gaza City
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A
Gold Market
The narrow covered Gold Market passage, running alongside the southern edge of the Great Mosque, was built in AD 1476 by prominent Gazan judge, Sheikh Shams al-Din-al-Himsi, and originally formed part of a much bigger covered market. The rest of the market was destroyed during WWI, but today this short passageway is still the place where all spouses-to-be come to pick out jewellery.
Sadly, due to recent food shortages in Gaza, the gold market has also started to play host to elderly Gazans, selling off family heirlooms in the hope of raising some sorely needed extra cash.
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B
Mosque of Said Hashim
Situated in Gaza's Daraj quarter, the popular Mosque of Said Hashim was built in 1850 under orders from Ottoman Sultan Abdul Majeed, using masonry from mosques and older buildings destroyed by Napoleon's troops. Its name refers to the Prophet Mohammed's great-grandfather, Hashim, a prominent merchant who died as he was passing through Gaza, and whose tomb rests in the mosque's northwestern corner.
This is one of Gaza's biggest and most attractive mosques, and, like the Great Mosque, you should be able to look in when there's no prayer in session.
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C
Hammam al-Samara
The last remaining of five bathhouses in Gaza City, Hammam al-Samara is a gorgeous Mamluk-era bathhouse dating back even beyond the 14th century, when, according to a plaque in the lobby, it was restored by the governor Sangar ibn Abdullah. It has managed to retain its vaulted ceilings and inlaid marble tiled floors, and is still heated by a series of wood-fired ovens and aqueducts.
Because of ongoing restoration work, opening times may change, but if open, it's a great place for a leisurely steam-clean with the locals.
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Roots Restaurant
By far the most expensive up-scale restaurant in Gaza, Roots is where important people dine on steak au poivre and chicken cordon bleu, though, since alcohol isn't served, there's no washing it down with a good vintage of anything other than Coke. Owner Basil Eleiwa and partners sunk US$1.1 million into the place, which has a nice outdoor area for evening dining, and incorporates the Green Terrace Café, serving sandwiches, mezze and light lunches all day long in less formal surroundings.
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D
Arts & Crafts Village
A beautiful white-painted adobe complex, the Arts & Crafts Village is where traditional Palestinian handicrafts, such as weaving, embroidery, copper work and woodwork, are kept alive. The village runs training courses and summer camps for children and workshops for adults, and regularly hosts local and international exhibitions. Its Abu Nawwas restaurant makes a pleasant place for a laid-back lunch accompanied by a bubbling nargileh.
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E
Great Mosque
Also known as Al-Omari Mosque or Jama'a al-Akbar, Palestinian tradition relates that the Great Mosque was built on the site of the biblical Temple of Dagon, which Sampson pulled down on the faithful Philistines and himself. Subsequently, a number of other religious buildings were built on the same spot, including a 12th-century Crusader church dedicated to St John the Baptist.
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F
Al Salam Restaurant
Many locals swear that this is the place for fish and seafood. However, with restrictions sometimes imposed on fishermen, fish dishes may also be suspended temporarily from the menu. In that case, opt for one of the grilled chicken dishes, which are extremely tasty, too.
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G
Delice Café
Catering to Gazans' taste for sweet stuff, this patisserie is always busy and it's a great place to stop for a quick pastry or two and a strong cup of black coffee.
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