Things to do in Bethlehem
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Church of the Nativity
Even without conjuring anything resembling the manger scene, the Church of the Nativity is an imposing marker for the birthplace of Jesus. Also called the Basilica of the Nativity, it's the oldest continuously operating church. It was commissioned in 326 by Constantine, with his mother Helena Augusta as head contractor and the bishop of Jerusalem in charge, forever ending the use of the site for the pagan worship of Adonis.
Renovations throughout the centuries included a new floor, beneath which lies the 4th-century mosaic floor discovered in 1934. After bowing through the Ottoman-era Door of Humility (most likely built so short to prevent soldiers on horses from entering…
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Rachel's Tomb
In a desolate corridor near the entrance to town is Rachel's Tomb . Another Bethlehem sojourner in labour, Rachel is said to have died here in childbirth, on the way south to Hebron. Her husband Jacob 'set a pillar upon her grave' (Genesis 35:20). Revered by followers of all three Abrahamic religions (Jews and Muslims in particular), the place has been enshrined and guarded for centuries, from the Byzantine and Islamic eras to the Crusaders, Ottomans and Israelis.
Located near the former checkpoint to Bethlehem from Jerusalem, the tomb complex was flanked by businesses that now stand defunct due to the construction of the 8m-high wall effectively annexing the once-autonom…
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Manger Square & the Old City
The energy on Manger Sq and in the Old City on Christmas Eve is positively electric. But the narrow limestone streets and exotic storefronts are a year-round draw. Even if you're not a churchgoer, on a Sunday morning sneak a peek at an array of Christian denominations celebrating in the place where so much started. Most in attendance are Palestinians, but respectful visitors are welcome to attend or stop in for a few moments of contemplation.
Set out at 09:00 at the Lutheran Christmas Church on Pope Paul VI St. Then head toward Manger Sq to St Mary's Syrian Orthodox Church where services are said in a dialect of Aramaic. Descend the stairs to Manger Sq and enter the Churc…
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Mosque of Omar
On Manger Sq, opposite the church, is the Mosque of Omar , named after the 2nd caliph, Omar Ibn al-Khattab. It was built in 1860 on land granted by the Greek Orthodox Church in honour of the Prophet Muhammad's father-in-law, who in 637 took Jerusalem from the flagging Byzantines and then prayed in the Church of the Nativity. Having declared the region sacred in compliance with the Quran, al-Khattab realised his followers would want to enshrine that spot as a Muslim holy site.
In order to keep the Christian site intact, he instituted the Pact of Omar preventing Muslim prayer assemblies at the church. Only individuals were allowed to pray there.
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St Catherine's Church
Midnight Mass at the newer, pink-toned St Catherine's Church is broadcast around the world on Christmas Eve. Accessed through the Church of the Nativity or from its front, you should first wander through the Crusader-era Franciscan cloister with a statue of St Jerome. Yasser Arafat and an entourage of notables, including his Christian wife, attended midnight Mass each year until the second intifada broke out.
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Dar Jdoudnah
Down the ramp from Manger Sq and to the left find a wide open bar in this old, stone textile factory and olive oil press. Have a meal or cappuccino with a slice of creamy layaly lubnan (a crustless pudding made from milk, semolina and cream with a touch of rose water). Keys on the wall symbolise the Palestinian return home, in keeping with the name of this place: our grandparents' house.
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Milk Grotto Chapel
A lesser-known house of worship, a short walk off Manger Sq, is the Milk Grotto Chapel . The white rock inside this stony chapel is said to bring milk to a mother's bosom and enhance fertility in women swallowing a morsel of the chalky substance. Legend has it that Mary and Joseph stopped here with the baby Jesus for a feeding, and some milk dripped onto the red rock turning it white.
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La Terrasse
Beauty and politics merge in the panoramic view from La Terrasse of Bethlehem and the Jewish settlement of Har Homa. Find a stepped-up Mediterranean-Mexican menu, comfy-chic ambience, a variety of wines and an international clientele. Alfredo comes with mushrooms, unless you decline. The creamy, crunchy almond soup is divine.
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Abu Shanab
Succulent lamb chops and traditionally butchered shish kebab are said to turn vegetarians around, but there's plenty of meatless mezze. The kofta (mincemeat and spices grilled on a skewer) is not overly seasoned (nothing to hide!). Moustachioed brothers (hence the name) give special attention to out-of-towners.
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Cave
In the International Center of Bethlehem (natives know the centre as Dar Annadwa) is housed the Cave which has extended hours for exhibits. Watch artisans at work through large windows, then go into the gallery/gift shop and bookstore. Don't miss how it gets its name - an ancient cave-dwelling on the lower level.
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Al-Kala'a/Citadel
This ancient gem of a schoolhouse is host to Westerners and natives with an appetite for both Palestinian and, surprisingly good, Chinese cooking. Fabulous out on the patio or inside with an olive-wood scale model of old Jerusalem.
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Qaabar
Get to the sweet, old city of Beit Jala and ask for barbeque. Everyone knows Qaabar for the charcoal-grilled chicken and its fabulous aïoli - a habit-forming garlic mayonnaise (eggless). Use your fingers.
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Manger Sq
The city's centerpiece, Manger Sq is also the hub of services - both religious and logistical. It has a post office, ATM and Open Bethlehem (x277 7993; www.openbethlehem.org; Manger Sq) - for its services.
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Abu Eli
Stuffed pigeon, anyone? One of the star establishments for Middle Eastern salads and grilled meat, Abu Eli now relies on deals with tour operators due to being shunted off by the wall.
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Old Bethlehem Museum
Old Bethlehem Museum will transport you through time to a typical Palestinian home of the 19th century. See native costumes; purchase embroidery produced by the Arab Women's Union.
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Al-Baidar
Covered cloisters in this exquisitely restored mansion are worth a stop, even for the special lemonade or a glass of beer. No baklava here. Apple pie, yes.
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Shepherd's Valley Tourist Village
A habitual stop after Shepherds' Field, the attraction is the environment as much as the local food. It's a huge Bedouin tent. Occasional folkloric dance.
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Efteem
Two shops on the down-ramp off the square serve felafel, but the second one down is so cherished, restaurateurs from Haifa come in to buy the mix.
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Al-Kuz Café and Bar
This charmingly kitschy Bedouin-inspired coffeebar extends out to a rambling patio garden. Free wi-fi.
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Crib Museum
The nativity-scene spectacle at the Crib Museum is a short walk off Manger Sq.
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