Manger Square & the Old City

The energy on Manger Sq and in the Old City on Christmas Eve is positively electric. But the narrow limestone streets and exotic storefronts are a year-round draw. Even if you're not a churchgoer, on a Sunday morning sneak a peek at an array of Christian denominations celebrating in the place where so much started. Most in attendance are Palestinians, but respectful visitors are welcome to attend or stop in for a few moments of contemplation.

Set out at 09:00 at the Lutheran Christmas Church on Pope Paul VI St. Then head toward Manger Sq to St Mary's Syrian Orthodox Church where services are said in a dialect of Aramaic. Descend the stairs to Manger Sq and enter the Church of the Nativity to find a Greek Orthodox service in session. Tiptoe around to the left and through a passage where the Roman Catholic Mass is in progress at St Catherine's Church. Don't stand with your hands in your pockets, chew gum, or sit with one foot resting on the other knee. Or do. Nothing is likely to happen. But it isn't polite.