Muslim Quarter

Strolling does not come easy in the Muslim Quarter - visiting the sights here is more a matter of dodging, weaving and ducking. You'll need agility as heavily laden carts go trundling past, children zip by with reckless abandon and merchants manhandle you into their shops.

Challenging as it may seem, the hustle and bustle of the Muslim Quarter is relieved by the fragrance of the spice shops, the sight of colourful headgear bobbing amid the crowd and the joy of a hot tea taken on the roof of a guesthouse, with the Dome of the Rock dominating every view.

The Muslim Quarter runs from Damascus Gate east and south towards the Temple Mount. Enter the melee at permanently congested Damascus Gate. About 100m in, the street forks, and there is a busy felafel stall wedged between the two prongs. Bearing to the left is Al-Wad Rd, lined with vast showrooms of brass items such as coffee pots and trays, in among sweet shops, vegetable stalls and an egg stall. This route leads directly to the Western Wall, along the way crossing the Via Dolorosa.

Bearing to the right at the fork is Souq Khan as-Zeit St, which is even busier than Al-Wad Rd. Its name means 'Market of the guesthouses and olive oil' - you'll find both, plus shops selling fruit, vegetables, sweets, hardware, oriental spices and nuts.