Architecture sights in Jerusalem
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Mosque of the Ascension
Sometimes confusingly referred to as the Church of the Ascension, the Mosque of the Ascension is a Muslim-administered building in an odd little octagonal Crusader reconstruction of an earlier Byzantine structure. Saladin authorised two of his followers to acquire the site in 1198 and it has remained in Muslim possession since. Hours are irregular but someone is usually around most mornings to open it up.
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Haram ash-Sharif/Temple Mount
A walk up to the Haram ash-Sharif/Temple Mount is a time-honoured privilege sanctified by the thousands of pilgrims who have trod before you. An open plaza of cypress trees and ancient paving stones, the architecture that exists today dates back to the first Muslim conquest, around 1400 years ago, including the unmistakable Dome of the Rock. But the history of the Mount goes back much further, with the first Jewish Temple having been placed here a thousand years before Christ.
There are few patches of ground as holy, or as disputed, as this one, and as such it's one of the required stops on a visit to the Old City.
The Temple Mount, known to Muslims as the Haram ash-Sharif…
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Western Wall
The builders of the Western Wall could never have fathomed that one day their modest creation would become the most important religious shrine for the Jewish people. Indeed, when it was built some 2000 years ago it was merely a retaining wall supporting the outer portion of the Temple Mount, upon which stood the Second Temple. (The Second Temple was constructed around 520 BC.)
But following the destruction of the temple in AD 70, Jews were sent into exile and the precise location of the temple was lost. Upon their return they purposely avoided the Temple Mount, fearing that they might step on the Holy of Holies, the ancient inner sanctum of the temple barred to all except…
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Al-Aqsa Mosque
The name Al-Aqsa means 'farthest mosque' and is in reference to the isra Mohammed is believed to have made on his way to heaven to join Allah. While the Dome of the Rock serves more as a masthead than a mosque, Al-Aqsa is a functioning house of worship, accommodating up to 5000 praying supplicants at a time.
Believed by some to be a conversion of a 6th-century Byzantine church, Muslims maintain that Al-Aqsa was built from scratch in the early 8th century by the son of Abd al-Malik, patron of the Dome. Clarification of the issue is complicated because nothing much remains from the original structure, which was twice destroyed by earthquakes in its first 60 years. The prese…
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St Mark’s Chapel
The venerable St Mark’s Chapel is the home of the Syrian Orthodox community in Jerusalem, whose members number about 200. (There are only about three million worldwide, of whom two million are in Malahar in central India.) The Syrian Orthodox believe the chapel, on Ararat St, occupies the site of the home of St Mark’s mother, Mary, where Peter went after he was released from prison by an angel (Acts 12:12). The Virgin Mary is claimed to have been baptised here, and according to their tradition this, not the Cenacle on Mt Zion, is where the Last Supper was eaten. One thing to look out for is the painting on leather of the Virgin and Child, attributed to St Luke. The nu…
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Ecce Homo Convent of the Sisters of Zion
This convent is named for the Ecce Homo arch that crosses the Via Dolorosa outside. The arch (part of which has been enveloped by the wall of the convent) was at one time thought to be the gate of Herod's Antonia Fortress and therefore believed to be the spot that Pontius Pilate took Jesus out and proclaimed, 'Ecce Homo' (Behold, the man!). Researchers now dispute this as the arch is now considered to be a 2nd-century triumphal arch built by the Roman emperor Hadrian.
Inside the convent, and down in the basement, is a cistern with a barrel-vault roof, a likely creation of Hadrian. You can also find here the stone pavement (lithostratos) etched with the games played by Rom…
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Church of the Holy Sepulchre
While the Dome of the Rock glistens and the Western Wall wails, the holiest Christian site in the Old City, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre passes quietly through the centuries in sombre reflection of the last hours of Jesus. The church, somewhat huddled in the Christian Quarter between otherwise insignificant edifices, is considered by Christians to be the biblical Calvary (Latin for skull), or Golgotha, where it is said Jesus was nailed to the cross, died and rose from the dead. For the past 16 centuries Christian pilgrims have arrived at this spot from every corner of the globe, and while it may not look as regal as even the most average church in Europe, their tears,…
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Ethiopian Monastery
Located on the northwestern corner of the Holy Sepulchre complex, the Ethiopian Monastery houses a few monks who live among the ruins of a medieval cloister erected by the Crusaders where Constantine’s basilica had been previously. The cupola in the middle of the roof section admits light to St Helena’s crypt below. Once inside you may find monks and nuns praying or prostrating. Around the walls are paintings of Ethiopian saints, the Holy Family and the Queen of Sheba during her visit to Jerusalem. It was during this visit that the Queen of Sheba, together with King Solomon, produced heirs to both royal houses, one of whom (according to Ethiopian legend) brought the Ark o…
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Monastery of the Cross
In any other city, the Monastery of the Cross would be a major tourist attraction. In Jerusalem it falls through the cracks, partly because of its isolated location in a valley below the Israel Museum. The fortress-like structure was founded in the early 4th century AD by King Bagrat of Georgia to commemorate the tradition that the tree from which Jesus’ cross was believed to have been made grew here. Persians laid waste to the building in 614 and Muslims destroyed the replacement in 1009. Construction began again in 1038, although various additions have been made since then, including a Spanish-style rococo tower in the mid-19th century. The Greek Orthodox Church purchas…
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Church of St John the Baptist
The oldest church in Jerusalem, the Church of St John the Baptist is rather hidden by the Christian Quarter homes that surround it. The signposted entrance leads you into the courtyard of a more recent Greek Orthodox monastery where a monk will usually be present to open the church for you. Originally built in the mid-5th century, it was restored after the Persians destroyed it in AD 614. In the 11th century the merchants of Amalfi built a new church, which became the cradle of the Knights Hospitallers, using the walls of the earlier building. The present facade with the two small bell towers is a more recent addition, along with a few other alterations made to ensure the…
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Church of the Visitation
The Church of the Visitation is built over what is said to have been the home of Zacharias and Elizabeth, across the valley from the Church of St John and uphill from Mary’s Spring. The name of the church is in remembrance of Mary’s visit to Elizabeth (Luke 1: 39-49). The prayer that Mary is said to have uttered (‘My soul exalts the Lord’; Luke 1: 46-56) is inscribed on the walls of the church in 41 languages. Brilliant paintings adorn the walls of the upper church; in the apse, Mary stands in the desert flanked by her devotees and below angels who prepare to crown her with wreaths.
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Ben Zakai Synagogue
One of the four Sephardic Synagogues, the 400-year-old Ben Zakai Synagogue is named after a rabbi who escaped Roman persecution at the time of the Second Temple. Inside, a window high above the floor contains a shofar (rams' horn) and a flask of olive oil. The purpose of the shofar is to announce the coming of the Messiah and the oil is there to anoint him upon his arrival in the synagogue.
Legend has it that a tunnel was once built from the synagogue all the way to the Temple Mount so that the Messiah could easily walk there without the hindrance of street traffic.
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Ramparts Walk
The Ramparts Walk is a 1km jaunt along the top of the city wall – from Jaffa Gate north to Lion’s Gate, via New, Damascus and Herod’s Gates; and Jaffa Gate south to Dung Gate, via Zion Gate. It isn’t possible to do a complete circuit of the wall because the Haram ash-Sharif/Temple Mount stretch is closed for security reasons. To begin the walk, head up the stairs just inside Jaffa Gate. Tickets are sold at both Jaffa Gate and Damascus Gate. Note that the north side of the wall is closed on Fridays because of Muslim prayers. The south side is open seven days a week.
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St Andrew’s Church
Also known as the Scottish Church, St Andrew’s Church was built in 1927 to commemorate the capture of the city and the Holy Land by the British in WWI. Based on the design of one Clifford Holliday, the buildings are an intriguing mix of Western and Arabic influences; take note of the exquisite Armenian tiles outside the entrance to the guesthouse and church (these were designed in a workshop on the Via Dolorosa). The floor features an inscription to the memory of Robert the Bruce, who requested that his heart be buried in Jerusalem when he died.
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Chagall Windows
Often confused with its namesake on Mt Scopus, the Hadassah Medical Centre is the Middle East's largest hospital. However, it's far more well known internationally for its synagogue, featuring stained-glass windows by Jewish artist Marc Chagall. His 12 colourful abstract panels each depict one of the tribes of Israel, based on Genesis 49 and Deuteronomy 33.
Guided tours are conducted in English, but you'll need to call ahead to confirm times. Take bus No 19 or 27 and get off at the last stop. You can also reach here by walking up from Ein Kerem.
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Four Sephardic Synagogues
In accordance with a law of the time stating that synagogues could not be taller than neighbouring buildings, this grouping was sunk deep into the ground - a measure that certainly saved them from destruction during the bombardment of the quarter in 1948. (Two of the four date back as far as the 16th century.) However, the synagogues were looted by the Jordanians and then used as sheep pens.
They have been restored using the remains of Italian synagogues damaged during WWII and are back in use for morning and evening services.
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Ethiopian Church
Tucked away on narrow, leafy Ethiopia St is the impressive bronze-domed Ethiopian Church. Built between 1896 and 1904, the church’s entrance gate features the carved Lion of Judah, an emblem believed to have been presented by Solomon to the Queen of Sheba, Ethiopia’s queen, when the queen visited Jerusalem. The gate also has inscriptions in Ge’ez, an ancient language of Ethiopia. Visitors are asked to leave their shoes at the door before entering.
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Ramban Synagogue
This synagogue - its name is an acronym for Rabbi Moshe Ben Nahman - was established on this site in the year 1400 in a stable bought from an Arab landlord, but problems were later caused by the construction of a neighbouring mosque (the minaret of which still stands). The upshot was that in 1588 the Jews were banned from worship and the synagogue was converted into a workshop. It was reinstated as a house of worship only in 1967, some 380 years later.
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St Alexander’s Church
On a corner just east of the Holy Sepulchre, St Alexander’s Church is the home of the Russian mission in exile. The attraction for visitors is a much-altered triumphal arch that once stood in Hadrian’s forum, built here in AD 135. Through the arch and to the left at the top of the steps you can see a section of the pavement that was once part of the platform of Hadrian’s temple to Aphrodite. Ring the bell to enter.
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Church of Mary Magdalene
Although badly tarnished by the weather, the golden onion domes of the Russian Church of Mary Magdalene are still one of Jerusalem’s most attractive and surprising landmarks. Built in 1888 by Alexander III in memory of his mother, the church is now a convent and has one of the city’s best choirs. A section of the Garden of Gethsemane is claimed to be within the church’s grounds.
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Church & Monastery of the Dormition
The beautiful Church & Monastery of the Dormition is one of the area’s most popular landmarks and is the traditional site where the Virgin Mary is believed to have died, or fell into ‘eternal sleep’; its Latin name is Dormitio Sanctae Mariae (Sleep of Holy Mary). The current church and monastery, owned by the German Benedictine order, was consecrated in 1906.
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St Anne’s Church
Surrounded by trees and rubble from bygone eras, St Anne’s Church looks like a lost archaeological site in the midst of the Old City. Traditional belief holds that this was once the home of Joachim and Anne, the parents of the Virgin Mary, while next to the church are the impressive ruins surrounding the biblical Pool of Bethesda.
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Russian Chapel of the Ascension
Marked by a needle-point steeple – the tallest structure on the Mount of Olives – the Russian Chapel of the Ascension is built over the spot from which the Russian Orthodox Church claims Jesus made his ascent to heaven. It’s hard to find, so look for a narrow alleyway leading off from the main street, in among the shops and cafes.
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Room of the Last Supper
The Last Supper is one of the most familiar icons of Christianity, captured in artwork most famously by Leonardo Da Vinci. Venerated as the room where Jesus and his disciples had this final meal together, the Room of the Last Supper is considered to be the fourth-most holy place in the Christian world.
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Church of All Nations
Glistening golden mosaics mark the facade of the classically styled Church of All Nations, designed by prolific architect Antonio Barluzzi and dedicated in 1924. The mosaic depicts Jesus assuming the suffering of the world, hence the church’s alternative name – the Basilica of the Agony.
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