Things to do in Galilee
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Nazareth Village
If you're having trouble imagining Jesus doing anything miraculous amid the bustle of modern Nazareth, then step back 2000 years at Nazareth Village. Everyday life and commerce in a traditional Galilean village has been duly reconstructed with actors in period clothing leading tours of the working farm. Leave any nightmares of tacky olde worlde historical theme parks at the door - it's well done and worth a stop. It's a 15-minute walk due west from the basilica, just beyond Al-Wadi al-Jawani St.
reviewed
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El-Reda
The weekend papers love to rave about this restaurant in a restored 120-year-old Arab mansion, and for once it's justified. The views of the basilica (stunning from the rooftop terrace), the food (friendly owner Daher Zeidani makes only what he likes and that's traditional Nazareth dishes with a Mediterranean twist) and the atmosphere (occasional live music and poetry) make this one of the better restaurants in the north of Israel.
reviewed
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Souq
Starting at the top of El-Bishara St and occupying a maze of steep and narrow, winding alleys, the Souq is a lively place to haggle over a dayglo Jesus for the car dashboard. In the lower part of the town, local authorities have taken steps to clean up the white-stone streets of the souq but it still retains a somewhat authentic Arabian air, particularly on Fridays.
reviewed
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Basilica of the Annunciation
Dominating the Nazareth skyline is the Roman Catholic Basilica of the Annunciation, the largest church in the Middle East and one of the Christian world's most holy shrines. The church is believed to stand on the site of Mary's home where the Angel Gabriel appeared to her and announced that she was pregnant with the Son of God (Luke 1:26-38).
Commissioned by the Franciscan church and consecrated in 1969, architect Giovanni Muzio was told to create something 'modern, multinational and mysterious'. With its imposing dome, the church (the fifth to have stood on this spot) certainly has a modern feel. The rather weird mix of artwork, mother-and-child themed gifts donated by C…
reviewed
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Hammat Tiberias National Park
Israel's spa craze actually has a 2000-year-old history which started at the hot springs of Hammat Tiberias when, during Roman times, they were the focus, if not raison d'être, of a community of 40,000 fervent bathers. Check out the history of the site at the Hammat Tiberias National Park, which features a small museum in what was originally part of a Turkish bathhouse. The main highlight is a synagogue dating from the 3rd to 5th centuries AD, which has a beautiful zodiac mosaic floor.
Much has been made of the mosaic's curious mix of Jewish and pagan symbols, but somehow this seems quite apt in Tiberias, a town that, historically, seems to have been able to reconcile th…
reviewed
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Tomb of Rabbi Moshe Ben Maimon
The tomb of Rabbi Moshe Ben Maimon is the final resting place of the Spanish physician, also known as Maimonides or Rambam, who worked in the court of the Muslim ruler Saladin. This revered rabbi, who died in 1204, was one of 12th-century Egypt's most highly regarded sages. Legend has it that before his death in Cairo, he instructed followers to load his remains onto a camel and bury him wherever the camel expired. The camel was apparently drawn to Tiberias.
Next to Rabbi Moshe Ben Maimon's tomb lies Rabbi Yohanan Ben Zakkai, the Holy Land's most eminent sage at the time of the Roman destruction of Jerusalem. Ben Zakkai is said to have faked his own death, escaping the ci…
reviewed
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Tiberias Beaches
Water pollution, lack of water…there's a never ending list of problems facing the Sea of Galilee, but what really seems to aggravate both locals and travellers the most is the illegal privatisation of the beaches. Some stretches of shoreline are now completely fenced off, with owners charging up to ₪120 for a bit of fun in the sun.
Most of the beaches immediately around Tiberias are owned by hotels, which do at least provide facilities such as changing rooms and showers. If you don't like the idea of paying for access, either head for the harbour wall to the south of the Radisson Moriah Plaza Hotel, or leave Tiberias altogether and walk or take a bus further south, be…
reviewed
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Church & Monastery Of The Apostles
By the water's edge, south of the Radisson Moriah Plaza Hotel lies the Church & Monastery Of The Apostles. This Greek Orthodox complex is on the site of a Byzantine monastery that was destroyed by the Persians in the 7th century. Since then the complex has been rebuilt and destroyed numerous times; the buildings standing today date from the late 19th century but have been restored as recently as 1975.
Three monks live here and they'll usually admit visitors who ring the bell. There are four chapels beyond the pleasant, walled courtyard. One chapel is dedicated to St Peter, one to the disciples, and one to Mary Magdalene; the one in the ancient round tower is dedicated to …
reviewed
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St Gabriel's Church
According to Greek Orthodox beliefs, the Angel Gabriel appeared before Mary while she was fetching water, not while she was home in what is now the grotto in the Roman Catholic basilica. St Gabriel's Church was built in the late 17th century on the site of earlier churches and the beautifully restored crypt at the far end contains the source of the spring supplying the nearby well. Before entering the attractive interior take a look at the ancient graffiti carved around the doorway.
The church is about 10 minutes' walk north of the Basilica of the Annunciation, one block north of where Paul VI St ends.
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St Peter's Church
Hidden along the northern promenade it is worth looking out for the lovely Franciscan church built by 12th-century Crusaders. The Muslims converted it into a mosque, and you can make out an area of uneven stone on the southern wall filling in the hole where a mihrab (prayer niche indicating the direction of Mecca) was carved. Later, the Turks used the building as a caravanserai before it was rebuilt as a church in 1870. .
Its two features are the boat-shaped nave, a nod to St Peter's piscatorial profession, and the courtyard built by the Polish soldiers stationed here during WWII.
reviewed
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Museum of Hungarian Speaking Jewry
The collection of folklore exhibits at the Museum of Hungarian Speaking Jewry depicts the vibrant history of the Jews living in Hungary, Transylvania, Slovakia, Carpathian Russia, Bachka, Banat and Burgenland before WWII. The museum’s founders, longtime Tsfat residents and Holocaust survivors, are passionate about preserving this rich past, returning to Eastern Europe to collect interesting pieces for the museum, from children’s books to religious antiques. If you have Hungarian family this museum has a large database of archives for those interested in doing some research.
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Garden
If the Garden had as good a PR machine as Diana, it too would be knocking back customers. The rocket and tabbouleh salads are so fresh they look like they could wander off the plate, while the labneh (thick yoghurt flavoured with garlic) is delicately spiced and competes for attention with deliciously fragrant meats grilled on cinnamon sticks, and it's all washed down with fresh lemonade. The food here is second to none.
Unfortunately the huge space is not easy to fill and the restaurant appears to suffer from the killer 'if it's not full, it's obviously not good' syndrome.
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Torrance Restaurant
If you're not staying at the Scots Hotel then a meal at the Torrance Restaurant - preferably on the verandah to take in the spectacular views - should be on the list. The menu changes daily and the dishes are filled with fresh Galilee produce such as the ubiquitous St Peter's fish, herbs from the kitchen garden and local cheeses. The impressive cellar has a selection of boutique Galilee wines.
The food is pretty good, but it's the setting, in the original Scots Hospital building, and the chance to have a sticky beak around the rest of the property that is the real attraction.
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Al-Amari Mosque
As out of place as a pin-stripe suited gent at a teenage rave, the dignified little Al-Amari Mosque looks threatened and lost squeezed between some gaudy shops and a brusque concrete supermarket. Built by Daher al-Omar in the mid-18th century, the mosque is one of the very few buildings in Tiberias that predates 1948. It is generally held that its construction was partly paid for by the town's Jewish community, presumably grateful to the sheikh for being permitted to return.
The mosque stands forlornly abandoned, and no one appears to have any plans to utilise its potential.
reviewed
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Tomb of Meir Ba'al Hanes
One of Judaism's holiest sites is the Tomb of Meir Ba'al Hanes, the 2nd-century rabbi who helped to compile the Mishnah.The tomb is marked by two synagogues: Sephardic, the one on the left with the white dome; and Ashkenazi, with the blue dome. In the courtyard of the Sephardic synagogue is a pillar topped by a large bowl, and four days before the Lag B'Omer holiday a bonfire is lit here on the Pesah Sheni (second Passover).
Crowds of religious Jews visit throughout the year to pray and it is a belief that God will answer the prayers of pilgrims with personal problems.
reviewed
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El-Rais
Toward the end of the Ottoman era, local leaders such as Governor Daher el-Omar ruled the Galilee and Nazareth was in its heyday. Beautiful mansions flowered the city, many of which are still standing today. Recognisable by their red roof tiles, three arched windows and balcony, they also have richly decorated interiors, all Italian marble and colourful fresco ceilings. The house of El-Rais has 13 rooms with painted ceilings - one featuring the owner holidaying in Egypt with his wife.
Contact the tourist office (tel: 602 8219) to organise a visit.
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Diwan El Lajun Theatre
If you are interested in seeing co-existence in action, stop by Diwan El Lajun Theatre, a multicultural arts centre run by Gassan Abbass, a well-known actor and director. There are regular music and theatre performances as well as story telling workshops for both adults and children from mixed backgrounds. The theatre is always buzzing, thanks to a women's training program teaching puppet making and traditional Palestinian embroidery.
There's also a small café where performer Hanita-Carolin Hendelman will happily discuss upcoming events.
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Pagoda
Taking the road north out of town it's hard to miss the Pagoda restaurant, so incongruous is the faux-Chinese temple and its glitzy red-and-gold interior, located right on the Sea of Galilee. If you keep kosher, the Chinese-Thai dishes are a step above what usually passes for Asian food elsewhere in the country. If you don't, be prepared for a very Israelised version of things with an unadventurous menu featuring sweet and sour chicken, Pad Thai and sushi. Definitely reserve a table in advance.
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Tishreen
Named after the month it was opened in 2004 (tishreen is Arabic for October) this sophisticated restaurant has an autumnal atmosphere with its straw-encrusted walls lined with antiques and wine bottles. Locals enjoying long lunches and late dinners order Mediterranean-inspired dishes from the mosaic-tiled wood oven which turns out 'aborigine (aubergine) stuffed with pesto and cheese' as well as excellent muhammar, an Arabic pizza topped with chicken and onion slices.
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Diana
Mention to anyone that you are heading to Nazareth, they will invariably know little about the town, except that you must eat at Diana. Behind a rather unassuming façade, Arab chef Dokhol Safadi presents an incredible range of more than a dozen mezze dishes. Try and save room for the house speciality - spicy handmade kebabs with pine nuts - one dish will definitely suffice for a couple. Hugely popular with visiting Israelis, it's best to book ahead, especially on weekends.
reviewed
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Chapel of Fright
Luke 4:29-30 tells of the occasion when the people of Nazareth tried to throw Jesus off the top of a hill. In the southern part of the town, the Franciscan Chapel of Fright is built on the supposed site from where Mary witnessed this event. The nearby hill is known as the 'precipice', or the Leap of the Lord. Look for the signposted gate in the wall on Paul VI St, opposite the Hotel Galilee, south of the town centre. The chapel is behind the wall, beyond St Claire's Convent.
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Decks
We recommend a 24-hour crash diet before surrendering to the charcoal grill at this legendary steakhouse, where it really is possible to have five different animals on the table at one time. House favourites are the tender pieces of baby lamb, goose liver and filet mignon, slowly roasted on the hickory grill and served with locally grown vegetables. Desserts such as the crepe flambé with apple and cinnamon are truly gluttonous but worth saving room for.
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Galilee Experience
Jesus, Napolean and the Israeli General Moshe Dayan are all stars of the Galilee Experience, an hourly film in 12 languages, which recounts the historical, political and geographical story of the Galilee. The 'state-of-the-art slide show' is more high school projector job than Hollywood cineplex but it gets a constant stream of visitors to the marina complex which also includes an internet café (₪10 for 30 minutes) and a souvenir shop.
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Mensa Christi Church
Built in 1860, the small Franciscan Mensa Christi Church contains a large slab of rock known in Latin as Mensa Christi (Table of Christ). The rock is believed to be the dining table used by Jesus and his disciples after the Resurrection. Note the graffiti from numerous pilgrims from over the centuries. It is north of the Sisters of St Charles Borramaeus Convent, near the Maronite Church and Ecumenical Christian Child Care Centre.
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Guy
There's no view but at least it's an escape from the groups of package tourists that tend to take over the waterfront restaurants. Family-run Guy is popular with locals who dig into a menu which is supposedly Morrocan-inspired but actually runs the gamut from chopped liver to Iraqi kibbeh (burghul - cracked wheat). It's obvious a lot of love goes into the house speciality, a delicious array of stuffed vegetables.
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