Pub entertainment in Ireland
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Gravediggers (aka Kavanagh’s)
The gravediggers from the adjacent Glasnevin Cemetery had a secret serving hatch so that they could drink on the job – hence the pub’s nickname. Founded in 1833 by one John Kavanagh and still in the family, this pub is one of the best in Ireland, virtually unchanged in 150 years. In summer time the green of the square is full of drinkers basking in the sun, while inside the hardened locals ensure that ne’er a hint of sunshine disturbs some of the best Guinness in town. An absolute classic.
reviewed
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Kelly's Cellars
Kelly's is Belfast's oldest pub (1720) – as opposed to tavern; see White's Tavern – and was a meeting place for Henry Joy McCracken and the United Irishmen when they were planning the 1798 Rising. The story goes that McCracken hid behind the bar when British soldiers came for him. A bit rough around the edges (a description that could apply to some of the regulars too), it remains resolutely old-fashioned, but pulls in a broad cross-section of Belfast society and is a good bet for impromptu traditional music sessions.
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Church
We don’t normally go in for superpubs, but this one deserves a mention. Irish patriot Wolfe Tone, who was baptised here, and Arthur Guinness, brewery founder, who married here, might have conflicting views on the fate of this remarkable early 18th-century church. The glorious restoration features an enormous organ and historically important wall plaques and inscriptions. Expect a well-heeled crowd.
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An Teach Beag
This intriguing pub, out back from O'Donovan's Hotel, has all the atmosphere necessary for good traditional music sessions. You might even catch a scríocht (a session by storytellers and poets) in full flow. There's music nightly during July and August, and on weekends for the rest of the year. Check out the historical plaque at the start of the alley – times have changed…
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Séhán Ua Neáchtain
Painted a bright cornflower blue, this 19th-century pub, known simply as Neáchtain's (nock-tans) or Naughtons, has a wraparound string of tables outside, many shaded by a large tree. It's a place where a polyglot mix of locals plop down and let the world pass them by – or stop and join them for a pint.
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De Barra's
A marvellous atmosphere, walls splattered with photos, press cuttings, masks and musical instruments, plus the cream of live music every night of the week (starting around 9.30pm) make this a busy pub.
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Brogan’s
Only a couple of doors down from the Olympia Theatre, this is a wonderful old-style bar where conversation – not loud music – is king. The beer is also pretty good.
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Joe Watty's Bar
This is the best pub in Kilronan, with traditional sessions most nights and rather posh pub food (noon to 8pm) from June to August. Turf fires warm the air on the 50 weeks a year when this is needed.
reviewed
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Strawberry Hall
Strawberry Hall alone makes it worth the trek to the Strawberry Beds, a totally unspoilt bit of countryside. The Strawberry Beds run alongside the northern banks of the Liffey between the villages of Chapelizod and Lucan, roughly along the western edge of the Phoenix Parkand, and is one of the city's most beautiful getaway spots. Have drinks at the utterly wonderful Strawberry Hall, reputedly Dublin’s second-oldest pub and one of the best-kept secrets in town. This place alone makes it worth the trek.
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Searson’s
What could easily be dismissed as yet another characterless superpub, with the warmth and ambience of a train station, is actually a pretty decent bar with the option of Old Man pub at the front and trendy, modern bar at the back. Something for everyone then: lunchtimes it’s packed with office workers, weekend nights it’s packed with the same crowd in jeans and designer shirts and, when the rugby’s on, the Irish green. Two Havana Clubs and Coke, please.
reviewed
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Bittle's Bar
A cramped and staunchly traditional bar that occupies Belfast's only 'flat iron' building, Bittle's is a 19th-century triangular red-brick building decorated with gilded shamrocks. The wedge-shaped interior is covered in paintings of Ireland's literary heroes by local artist Joe O'Kane. Pride of place on the back wall is a large canvas depicting Yeats, Joyce, Behan and Beckett at the bar with glasses of Guinness, and Wilde pulling the pints on the other side.
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O’Neill’s Pub
A country pub straight from Central Casting, where peat fires are ready to warm you on the coldest days, while you can take your perfectly poured pint into the sunshine on nice days. The bar is long and mahogany, the walls are covered with old photos and the clientele spin yarns. Butlerstown is located down a warren of little lanes off the R600. It’s the hub of walks around the dramatic coastal bluffs otherwise known as the Seven Heads.
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O’Brien’s
The unofficial HQ of media types and advertising execs, old-fashioned O’Brien’s is the embodiment of all the aspirations of the Celtic Tiger, a place where prosperity and forward-thinking can flourish amid the powerfully nostalgic reminders of a time gone by. Which pretty much means that O’Brien’s hasn’t changed its décor all that much, but the bathrooms are absolutely spotless.
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McCarthy's Bar
If you're carrying an original copy of the late Pete McCarthy's bestseller, McCarthy's Bar, you'll be excited to see the front-cover photo sitting in three dimensions on Main St. McCarthy's is a grocery as well as a pub, so if you fancy a tin of peaches and a can of corn to go with your Beamish, you've come to the right place. There's frequent live music and a wicked wee snug inside the door.
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Sean's Bar
Age certainly hasn't wearied Sean's Bar. Dating way back to AD 900, Sean's stakes its claim as Ireland's oldest pub. Its log fires, uneven floors (to help flood waters run back down to the river), sawdust, rickety piano and curios collected over the years attest to the theory. The riverside beer garden has live music most nights in summer; to really see things in full swing, turn up at about 5.30pm on a Saturday.
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Mulligans
Outside the northeastern boundary of Temple Bar, Mulligans has scarcely changed over the years. It featured as the local in the film My Left Foot and is also popular with journalists from the nearby newspaper offices. Mulligan’s was established in 1782 and has long been reputed to have the best Guinness in Ireland, as well as a wonderfully varied collection of regulars.
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Garrick Bar
Established in 1870 but recently refurbished, the Garrick hangs on to a traditional atmosphere with acres of dark wood panelling, tiled floors, a pillared bar and old brass oil lamps. There are snug booths with buttoned leather benches, and a real coal fire in each room. Traditional music sessions in the front bar at 9.30pm on Wednesday, 5pm Friday and 4pm Sunday.
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JJ Houghs
Rivalling the river as Banagher's most appealing feature, Hough's is a 250-year-old vine-clad pub renowned for its music sessions. You'll find someone playing here most nights in summer and at weekends in winter. If there's no live music, you can entertain yourself by poring over the artefact-covered walls or counting stars in the pleasant beer garden.
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Kennedy’s
Not to be confused with the home of the terrific underground nightclub on Westland Row, this is a proper traditional pub where literally nothing has changed in 50 years, including some of the clientele. Tread softly and speak even quieter so as not to disturb the contemplative atmosphere of a bar that seems oblivious to what’s happened to Dublin in the last 20 years.
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Hi-B
Up a dingy flight of stairs, tiny Hi-B is one of Cork's most idiosyncratic pubs, in no small part thanks to landlord Brian O'Connell. If you've never been thrown out of a pub and think you've missed out, try getting out your mobile here. Or ordering a soft drink. Or looking at Brian in a 'funny' way. There's jazz on the piano on Wednesday nights to add to the entertainment.
reviewed
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Fallon’s
Just west of the city centre, in the heart of medieval Dublin, this is a fabulously old-fashioned bar that has been serving a great pint of Guinness to a most discerning clientele since the end of the 17th century. Prize fighter Dan Donnelly, the only boxer ever to be knighted, was head bartender here in 1818. It’s a genuine Irish bar filled with Dubs.
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Pavilion
One of the most enjoyable drinking experiences in town can be had on a pleasant summer’s day on the balcony of the Pav, the cricket pavilion overlooking Trinity’s playing fields. Grab a beer and a sandwich before settling down to enjoy the spectacle on display: a cricket match or just the other punters getting drunk and trying to play Frisbee.
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Grogan's Castle Lounge
A city-centre institution, Grogan's has long been a favourite haunt of Dublin's writers and painters, as well as others from the bohemian, alternative set. An odd quirk of the pub is that drinks are marginally cheaper in the stone-floor bar than the carpeted lounge, even though they are served by the same bar!
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Dawson Lounge
To see the smallest bar in Dublin, go through a small doorway, down a narrow flight of steps and into two tiny rooms that always seem to be filled with a couple of bedraggled drunks who look like they're hiding. Psst, here's a secret: a certain sunglassed lead singer of a certain ginormous Irish band is said to love unwinding in here from time to time.
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McDaid’s
One of Dublin’s best-known literary pubs, this classic boozer was Brendan Behan’s ‘local’ (until he was barred) and it still oozes character. The pints are perfect, and best appreciated during the day when it’s not full of our type. Thankfully, there’s no music – just conversation and raucous laughter.
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