French restaurants in Dublin
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Lock’s
When chef Troy Maguire left the immensely popular L’Gueuleton in early 2007 to team up with ex-Bang manager Kelvin Rynhardt to take over one of the steady stalwarts of the Dublin dining scene, the bar was suddenly set very, very high. Would Lock’s shake off its old-town dust? Could Maguire recreate the informal-but-superb French campagnard cooking that made his former kitchen such a huge hit? Would Lock’s be as cool as Bang used to be? And would the prices stay this side of decent? Thankfully, yes on all counts, and while it’s still early days, Lock’s promises to be one of the most sought-after tables in town for years to come.
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Chez Max
Guarding the main gate to Dublin Castle is a French café that is Gallic through and through, from the fixtures imported from gay Paree to the beautiful, sultry staff who ignore you until they’re ready and then turn the sexy pout into a killer smile. The lunchtime tartines – basically open sandwiches – are good enough to get us misty-eyed for Montmartre, but its coffees are a timely reminder that while the French do an awful lot really, really well, they still don’t know how to make a decent brew.
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Dax
Olivier Meisonnave, convivial ex–maître d’ of Thornton’s, stepped out on his own with Irish chef Pól Óhéannraich to open this posh, rustic restaurant named after his home town, north of Biarritz. Located in a bright basement, it’s a place where serious foodies can sate their palate on sea bass with celeriac purée, pork wrapped in serrano ham or truffle risotto.
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D
French Paradox
This bright and airy wine bar over an excellent wine shop of the same name serves fine authentic French dishes such as cassoulet, a variety of foie gras, cheese and charcuterie plates, and large green salads. All there to complement the main attraction: a dazzling array of fine wines, mostly French unsurprisingly, sold by the bottle, glass or even 6.25cL taste! A little slice of Paris in Dublin.
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E
Dobbins
This old stalwart, opposite a row of council houses, was where the privileged came for lunch before the Celtic Tiger brought privilege to half the city. Its traditional French fare, homely setting and old-fashioned hospitality have served it well over the last quarter of a century, and it’s still a favourite with politicians, journalists and spin doctors (often at the same table).
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F
Balzac
It’s official: one of the best chefs in Ireland is Paul Flynn, who made his name with the simply stunning Tannery in Dungarvan, County Waterford. His first Dublin venture will only serve to cement his growing reputation. The elegant old-world dining room is a fitting setting for the superb cuisine on offer; how about oysters mignonette followed by champagne and truffle risotto?
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Chapter One
Savour classic French cuisine in the best restaurant north of the river, in the lovely vaulted basement of the Dublin Writers Museum. Getting a table here can take months, which is what happens when Monsieur Michelin bestows one of his stars upon you. You’ll have to book in advance, but the three-course pre-theatre special (served before 7pm) is excellent.
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H
La Maison des Gourmets
This thoroughly Francophile café is a wonderful spot to enjoy a tartine, salad specials or a plate of charcuterie. It also has a fine range of pastries, baked goodies and herbal teas. We prefer sitting on the street outside, where you can watch the world go by on Castle Market; the upstairs room is just that little bit too lacking in atmosphere.
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L’ecrivain
Two nods from Messrs Michelin suggest that this could be the best in town – and many foodies agree. Combinations of the freshest local, seasonal produce – wild salmon, Dublin Bay prawns, veal and Barbary duck – are matched with inventive sauces and accompaniments and presented like works of art. Has an attentive, friendly staff.
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Gallic Kitchen
Gallic Kitchen ‘Our food is so fucking good you won’t believe it’ advises the sign on the front wall of this little bakery shop. Standing at a bench, devouring a goat’s-cheese brioche, salmon roulade, smoked haddock quiche and chocolate pecan tart, we – wait for it – tend to agree.
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K
Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud
This restaurant boasts two Michelin stars for the French campagnard cuisine from Guillaume Lebrun’s kitchen and the formal and faultless service that makes dining here a near perfect experience. Surprisingly, the dishes are not overly fussy; it’s just excellent produce, beautifully cooked and well presented.
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Leon
French elegance comes to Dublin in the shape of this cafe-restaurant. From bouillabaisse to filet of lamb with a gratin dauphinois, the food is classically Gallic, but the real treat here is to linger over a cappuccino with a newspaper by the open fire at the front.
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