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Chapter One
One of the best restaurants in Dublin, this venerable old trooper sets its ambitions no further than modern Irish cuisine, which it has realised so brilliantly that those Michelin lads saw fit to throw one of their sought-after stars its way. Menus change regularly but the dishes are always top-notch, the service first class and the atmosphere reassuringly reserved. Get there early for the three-course pre-theatre special.
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Johnnie Fox's
Ireland's highest-altitude pub is about 45 minutes from Dublin in the Wicklow Mountains. Some people find it kitsch and overdone, but it's actually an authentic old place full of bric-a-brac, gnarled benches, sawdust floors and crackling open fires. The fabulous (but pricey) seafood and nightly Irish music are another draw.
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Rhodes D7
The northside got its first real taste of trendy dining when celebrity TV chef Gary Rhodes decided that this was the spot to open his first Irish venture. While you won't spot the Tintin-haired one sweating it out in the kitchen of this big, brash restaurant, he did devise the menu and his British staples - cheddar rarebit, roast cod with lobster champ - have been given an Irish twist, which really just means that the ingredients are local.
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Roly's Bistro
Roly's is an institution with Dublin's business fraternity (the Daily Mail is based beside it). It's always packed and serves up reliably good nosh. The menu is confidently traditional but most people come for the hobnobbing.
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Tea Rooms
Designed to resemble a church, the Clarence's Tea Rooms are spacious with a soaring ceiling and double-height windows, flooding the room with natural light. Appropriately, Mathieu Melin's innovative menu commands respect, with an ambitious marriage of classic French cuisine and typically Irish produce.
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