Things to do in County Wicklow
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Wicklow's Historic Gaol
Wicklow's infamous jail, opened in 1702 to deal with prisoners sentenced under the repressive Penal Laws, was renowned throughout Ireland for the brutality of its keepers and the harsh conditions suffered by its inmates. The smells, vicious beatings, shocking food and disease-ridden air have long since gone, but adults and children alike can experience a sanitised version of what the prison was like – and stimulate the secret sadist buried deep within – in the highly entertaining tour of the prison, now one of Wicklow's most popular tourist attractions. Actors play the roles of the various jailers and prisoners, adding to the sense of drama already heightened by the…
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Killruddery House & Gardens
About 3km south of Bray on the Greystones road are Killruddery House & Gardens. A stunning mansion in the Elizabethan Revival style, Killruddery has been home to the Brabazon family (earls of Meath) since 1618 and has one of the oldest gardens in Ireland. The house, designed by trendy 19th-century architects Richard Morrisson and his son William in 1820, was reduced to its present-day huge proportions by the 14th earl in 1953; he was obviously looking for something a little more bijou. The house is impressive, but the prizewinner here is the magnificent orangery, built in 1852 and chock-full of statuary and plant life. If you like fancy glasshouses, this is the one for…
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Deer Stone
At the junction with Green Rd as you cross the river just south of these two churches is the Deer Stone in the middle of a group of rocks. Legend claims that, when St Kevin needed milk for two orphaned babies, a doe stood here waiting to be milked. The stone is actually a bullaun (a stone used as a mortar for grinding medicines or food).
Many such stones are thought to be prehistoric, and they were widely regarded as having supernatural properties: women who bathed their faces with water from the hollow were supposed to keep their looks forever. The early churchmen brought the stones into their monasteries, perhaps hoping to inherit some of their powers.
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Mt Usher Gardens
Horticulturalists from around the world can be found salivating and muttering in approval as they walk around the 8-hectare Mt Usher Gardens, just outside the unremarkable town of Ashford, about 10km south of Greystones on the N11. OK, not really, but the gardens are pretty special, with trees, shrubs and herbaceous plants from around the world laid out in Robinsonian style – ie according to the naturalist principles of famous Irish gardener William Robinson (1838–1935) – rather than the formalist style of preceding gardens.
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Camaderry Mountain
You can hike up Camaderry Mountain (700m), hidden behind the hills that flank the northern side of the valley. The walk starts on the road just 50m back towards Glendalough from the entrance to the Upper Lake car park. Head straight up the steep hill to the north and you come out on open mountains with sweeping views in all directions.
You can then continue up Camaderry to the northwest or just follow the ridge west looking over the Upper Lake. To the top of Camaderry and back is about 7.5km and takes about four hours.
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Reefert Church
Follow the Upper Lake lakeshore path southwest of the car park until you come to the considerable remains of Reefert Church above the tiny River Poulanass. It's a small, plain, 11th-century Romanesque nave-and-chancel church with some reassembled arches and walls. Traditionally, Reefert (literally 'Royal Burial Place') was the burial site of the chiefs of the local O'Toole family. The surrounding graveyard contains a number of rough stone crosses and slabs, most made of shiny mica schist.
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Teampall na Skellig
The original site of St Kevin's settlement, Teampall na Skellig, is at the base of the cliffs towering over the southern side of the Upper Lake and accessible only by boat; unfortunately, there's no boat service to the site and you'll have to settle for looking at it across the lake. The terraced shelf has the reconstructed ruins of a church and early graveyard. Rough wattle huts once stood on the raised ground nearby. Scattered around are some early grave slabs and simple stone crosses.
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Avondale House
Avondale House, a marvellous 209-hectare estate, dominated by a fine Palladian mansion, designed by James Wyatt in 1779, was the birthplace of Charles Stewart Parnell (1846–91), the ‘uncrowned king of Ireland’ and unquestionably one of the key figures in the Irish independence movement. It was his Irish headquarters. Of the house’s many highlights, the most impressive are the stunning vermilion-hued library (Parnell’s favourite room) and beautiful dining room.
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Roundwood Inn
This 17th-century German- owned house has a gorgeous bar with a snug open fire, in front of which you can sample bar food with a difference: on the menu are dishes such as Hungarian goulash and Irish stew with a German twist. The more formal restaurant is the best in town, and has earned praise for its hearty, delicious cuisine. The menu favours meat dishes, including seasonal game, Wicklow rack of lamb and a particularly good roast suckling pig. Reservations are required.
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Meetings
The Meeting of the Waters is marked by a pub called the Meetings, which serves food (mains €10 to €15) and has music at weekends year-round. There are céilidh (traditional music and dancing sessions) between 4pm and 6pm Sunday, April to October. There’s also a guesthouse attached (known as Robin’s Nest) with decent, clean rooms (single/double €45/75). Buses to Avoca from Dublin stop at the Meetings, or you can walk from Avoca, 3km south of here.
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St Kevin's Kitchen
Glendalough's trademark is St Kevin's Kitchen or Church at the southern edge of the enclosure. This church, with a miniature round towerlike belfry, protruding sacristy and steep stone roof, is a masterpiece. How it came to be known as a kitchen is a mystery as there's no indication that it was anything other than a church. The oldest parts of the building date from the 11th century - the structure has been remodelled since but it's still a classic early Irish church.
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St Kevin's Bed
Just east of Teampall na Skellig and 10m above the lake waters is the 2m-deep artificial cave called St Kevin's Bed, said to be where Kevin lived. The earliest human habitation of the cave was long before St Kevin's era - there's evidence that people lived in the valley for thousands of years before the monks arrived. In the green area just south of the car park is a large circular wall thought to be the remains of an early Christian caher (stone fort).
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Spink
You can walk up the Spink (from the Irish for 'pointed hill'; 380m), the steep ridge with vertical cliffs running along the southern flanks of the Upper Lake. You can go part of the way and turn back, or complete a circuit of the Upper Lake by following the top of the cliff, eventually coming down by the mine workings and going back along the northern shore. The circuit is about 6km long and takes about three hours.
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Wild Wicklow Tour
Award-winning tours of Glendalough, Avoca and the Sally Gap that never fail to generate rave reviews for atmosphere and all-round fun, but so much craic has made a casualty of informative depth. The first pick-up is at the Dublin Tourism office, but there are a variety of pick-up points throughout Dublin; check the point nearest you when booking. The tour returns to Dublin about 5.30pm.
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Mine Workings Walk
The easiest and most popular walk is the gentle hike along the northern shore of the Upper Lake to the lead and zinc Mine Workings Walk, which date from 1800. The better route is along the lakeshore rather than on the road (which runs 30m in from the shore), a distance of about 2.5km, one way, from the Glendalough Visitor Centre. Continue on up the head of the valley if you wish.
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Hungry Monk
An excellent 1st-floor restaurant on Greystones' main street. The blackboard specials are the real treat, with dishes like suckling pig with prune and apricot stuffing to complement the fixed menu's classic choices – fresh seafood, Wicklow rack of lamb, bangers and mash and so forth. This is one of the better places to get a bite along the whole of the Wicklow coast.
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Johnnie Fox
Busloads of tourists fill the place nightly throughout the summer, mostly for the knees-up, faux-Irish floorshow of music and dancing. But there's nothing contrived about the seafood, which is so damn good we'd happily sit through yet another chorus of Danny Boy and even consider joining in the jig. The pub is 3km northwest of Enniskerry in Glencullen.
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Restaurant
The restaurant at Avoca Handweavers is huge and always busy. It puts a premium on sourcing the very best ingredients for its dishes. It is best known for its beef-and-Guinness casserole, but vegetarians are very well catered for as well. Many of the recipes are available in the two volumes of the Avoca Cookbook, both on sale for €45 for two.
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Avoca Handweavers
Avoca Handweavers is one hell of an operation, with seven branches nationwide and an even more widespread reputation for adding elegance and style to traditional rural handicrafts. Operational HQ is in a 19th-century arboretum, and its showroom will leave you in no doubt as to the company’s incredible success.
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Barracuda
When you’ve had your fill of live sea creatures in the National Sealife Centre, head upstairs to this minimalist, metal-and-mirrors restaurant and see what happens to Nemo when a really good chef gets his hands on him…or not. For your newly found love of the sea and all its inhabitants, there’s always a good steak.
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Kitty’s of Arklow
An Arklow institution, Kitty’s serves a great version of the usual bar food choices during the day – from beef burgers to fillets of plaice – while the evening menu tackles some exciting seafood dishes and an impressive range of meat dishes. It’s not new cuisine, but it’s a fine take on the classics.
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Priest's House
At the centre of the graveyard to the south of the round tower is the Priest's House. This odd building dates from 1170 but has been heavily reconstructed. It may have been the location of shrines of St Kevin. Later, during penal times, it became a burial site for local priests - hence the name.
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Mermaid Art Centre
An art gallery, theatre and cinema. The theatre puts on excellent gigs and modern, experimental-style plays, while the cinema shows art-house movies almost exclusively. Call to check prices. The art gallery has constantly changing exhibitions featuring the latest Irish and European works.
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Harbour Bar
A strong contender for Ireland’s best pub, here you can enjoy an excellent pint of Guinness in a quiet atmosphere of conviviality. There is a separate lounge with velvet curtains, assorted paintings and cosy couches. Sundays see the gay and lesbian community chill to some terrific DJs.
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Footfalls Walking Holidays
Guided or self-guided tour options up to eight days in Wicklow (and plenty of other spots in Ireland): a six-day trek through the Wicklow Mountains complete with full bed and board will cost €730.
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