Things to do in County Waterford
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47 The Bistro
A popular restaurant with curvy contemporary décor, serving sizzling stir-fries, stodgy classics such as Irish stew and pasta, and delicious desserts. Book ahead to get a table.
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Reginald's Tower
The oldest complete building in Ireland and the first to use mortar, 12th-century Reginald's Tower is an outstanding example of medieval defences, and was the city's key fortification. The Normans built its 3m- to 4m-thick walls on the site of a Viking wooden tower. English-appointed local officials stayed in this 'safe house', as did many royal visitors.
Over the years, the building served as an arsenal, a prison and a mint. The exhibits relating to the latter role are interesting: medieval silver coins, a wooden 'tally stick' with notches indicating the amount owed, a 12th-century piggy bank (smashed) and a coin balance used to determine weight and bullion value. Archit…
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Waterford Museum of Treasures
Waterford Museum of Treasures is one of Ireland's widest-ranging and most hi-tech museums. It's a dazzling, intriguing, provoking, and at times plain bewildering maze of metal, glass and state-of-the-art audiovisual displays. The fun begins on the 3rd floor, from where (plugged into an audioguide) you follow the exhibitions as they wend their way through history.
A highlight is the 'Viking longship', a rocking ride narrated by Waterford's Nordic forebears, who call themselves 'children of the raven' but sound more like comedic Scotsmen. You can also attend the marriage of Strongbow and local princess Aiofe, who promises to teach her Anglo-Norman lord how the Irish feast. …
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Waterford Crystal Visitor Centre
The pride of every middle-class living room, Waterford Crystal has become one of the world's most famous luxury brands. The Waterford Crystal visitor centre, complete with restaurant and tourist office, is 2km south of the centre. You can lurk in the shop, but we recommend the one-hour factory tour.
The transformation of glowing-hot balls of glass into diamond-cut crystal is near miraculous, and the guides have real insider knowledge of the factory's workings. In summer buy tickets in advance from the tourist office to avoid queues. The first Waterford glass factory was established at the western end of the riverside quays in 1783, but closed 68 years later because of pun…
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Copper Coast European Geopark
Stretching 25km west of Tramore, the rugged coastline of the Copper Coast European Geopark takes its name from the 19th-century copper mines outside Bunmahon. Among the area’s scalloped coves and beaches are geological formations dating back 460 million years, including quartz blocks, fossils, and former volcanoes. Free one-hour guided walks are available in July and August, or you can pick up a map from the park office in Bunmahon. The park encompasses Annestown, which has the dubious distinction of being the only village in Ireland without a pub.
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Gardens
From the Cappoquin road there are stunning glimpses of the riverside Lismore Castle, which is closed to day-trippers but available for groups to hire. You can visit the 3 hectares of gardens, thought to be the oldest in Ireland, divided into the walled Jacobean upper garden and less formal lower garden. There are brilliant herbaceous borders, magnolias and camellias, and a splendid yew walk where Edmund Spenser is said to have written The Faerie Queen. There are contemporary sculptures dotting the gardens.
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Curraghmore Estate
Lord and Lady Waterford dwell at the 1000-hectareCurraghmore Estate, which has belonged to the family since the 12th century. Its lavish gardens incorporate the whimsical shell house built by Catherine Countess of Tyrone in 1754, who arranged for sea captains docking at Wexford's port to bring her seashells from distant shores. By prior appointment, the fine Georgian house , containing some superior plaster work, is open to visitors.
Curraghmore is 14km northwest of Waterford town, 3.5km northwest of the pretty village of Portlaw. Suirway buses from Waterford can drop you 1km from the estate entrance.
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French Church
The elegant ruin of the stone French Church is announced by a statue of Luke Wadding, the Waterford-born Franciscan friar who persuaded the Pope to negotiate with Charles I on behalf of Irish Catholics. Hugh Purcell gave the church to the Franciscans in 1240, asking them in return to pray for him once a day. The church became a hospital after the dissolution of the monasteries, and was then occupied by French Huguenot refugees between 1693 and 1815. John Roberts is buried here. Ask the staff at Reginald's Tower to let you in.
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Christ Church Cathedral
Christ Church Cathedral is Europe's only neoclassical Georgian cathedral. Designed by local architect John Roberts, it was built on the site of an 11th-century Viking church, also the site where the 12th-century marriage of Strongbow and Aiofe took place. The highlight is the 15th-century tomb of James Rice, seven times lord mayor of Waterford: sculpted worms and frogs crawl out of the statue of his decaying body. Guided tours (adult/child €6/5) take place at 11.30am and 3.30pm. The cathedral also acts as a concert venue with wonderful acoustics – its broad program of performances features every- thing from choirs to pop quartets.
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Mt Melleray Cistercian Abbey
The beautiful Mt Melleray Cistercian Abbey is a fully functioning monastery with 28 Trappist monks, but welcomes visitors wishing ‘to take time for quiet contemplation’. The abbey was founded in 1832 by 64 monks who were expelled from a monastery near Melleray in Brittany, France. There are tearooms (closed Monday) and a heritage centre. It’s signposted 6km north from Cappoquin in the Knockmealdown foothills.
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An Seanachaí
The rough-hewn walls of the 'Old Storyteller' could certainly tell a few stories of their own. Parts of this thatched-roof pub date back to the 14th century from its earliest incarnation as a farm. It's an atmospheric spot for a pint, a meal (try the house-speciality fish pie) or regular live music. On the grounds, a dozen self-catering cottages are available for multi-day rentals.
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Dungarvan Castle
Renovation is restoring this stone fortress to its former Norman glory. Once inhabited by King John's constable Thomas Fitz Anthony, the oldest part of the castle is the unusual 12th-century shell keep, built to defend the mouth of the river. The 18th-century British army barracks house a visitor centre with various exhibits. Admission is by guided tour only.
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Marine Bar
Sure, there’s good food at this two-century-old pub, but the real reason to stop by is the craic. Year-round, traditional sessions rock the place on Monday and Saturday nights, while locals contest the traditional Irish card game ‘45’ on Wednesday evenings (anyone can join in). There’s music every night (except card night) in summer.
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Cappoquin House and Gardens
This is a magnificent 1779-built Georgian mansion and 5 acres of formal gardens overlooking the River Blackwater. It’s the private residence of the Keane family who’ve lived here for 200 years. The entrance to the house is just north of the centre of Cappoquin; look for a set of huge black iron gates.
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Barron’s Bakery
Barron’s Bakery has used the same Scotch brick ovens since 1887. Sandwiches, light meals and a mouth-watering selection of cakes and buns baked on the premises are available in its spearmint-green-painted cafe, while its breads are also sold in shops and markets throughout the area.
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Holy Trinity Cathedral
The sumptuous interior of this Catholic cathedral boasts a carved-oak baroque pulpit, painted pillars with Corinthian capitals and 10 Waterford Crystal chandeliers. It was built between 1792 and 1796 by John Roberts, who, unusually, also designed the Protestant Christ Church Cathedral.
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Bodéga!
The décor is all Spanish cantina, but the French chefs' menu is straight out of his homeland. The ever-changing menu, altered according to what's freshest, features wonderful dishes such as moules frites (mussels with fries) and Toulouse sausage, and there's a late-opening wine bar.
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Moorings
On the quayfront, live music and DJs perform regularly at the laidback Moorings, which has beautiful original timber cabinetry and a snug, and – sticking with the nautical theme – the Anchor Bar. The latter is also a good spot to catch sport on the big screen.
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Summerhouse
If you want to create that ‘heritage’ look in your own home (with a stylised, contemporary twist), check out the unusual glassware, fabrics, ceramics and ironwork at this gallery-style shop. It also sells handmade jewellery, and has an aromatic cafe and bakery onsite (dishes €4.75 to €11).
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Mill Restaurant
From the moment you walk in the door, you feel at ease: staff are patient with kids, the place is smart but relaxed, and it's clear everyone's having a good time. Seafood, such as pistachio- encrusted cod, is the main speciality, but it also serves succulent steaks and crispy pizzas.
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White Horses
Energetically run by three sisters, this tasty bistro serves nourishing fare like fresh seafood chowder or locally caught seafood on plates handmade in the village. Enjoy a drink on the bench out front or a meal at a sunny lawn table out back.
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Nude Food
When you've gained fame for a market cart called Naked Lunch, naming your next venture is easy. The only thing bare here is the plates after diners finish. From carefully crafted coffees to a beautiful selection of deli items, this cafe stands out. But save yourself for the lunch and dinner menus which feature top Waterford ingredients in sandwiches, salads, starters and hot mains that are hearty, honest and flavourful.
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Wine Vault
One of a cluster of quality eateries, this beautiful little restaurant is on two floors of an Elizabethan town house, with one floor housing the wine cellar. The food is a treat, ranging from starters like rabbit sausages and West Cork mussels to calamari and onwards.
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