Things to do in County Tipperary
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Rock of Cashel
The Rock of Cashel is one of Ireland's most spectacular archaeological sites. The 'Rock' is a prominent green hill, banded with limestone outcrops. It rises from a grassy plain on the edge of the town and bristles with ancient fortifications – the word 'cashel' is an anglicised version of the Irish word caiseal, meaning 'fortress'. Sturdy walls circle an enclosure that contains a complete round tower, a 13th century Gothic cathedral and the finest 12th-century Romanesque chapel in Ireland. For more than 1000 years the Rock of Cashel was a symbol of power and the seat of kings and churchmen who ruled over the region. In the 4th century the Rock of Cashel was chosen as a …
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Cormac's Chapel
If the Rock of Cashel boasted only Cormac's Chapel, it would still be an outstanding place. This compelling building dates from 1127, and the medieval integrity of its trans-European architecture survives. It was probably the first Romanesque church in Ireland.
The style of the square towers that flank it to either side may reflect Germanic influences, but there are haunting similarities in its steep stone roof to the 'boat-hull' shape of older Irish buildings, such as the Gallarus Oratory in County Clare and the beehive huts of the Dingle Peninsula.
The true Romanesque splendour is in the detail of the exquisite doorway arches, the grand chancel arch and ribbed barrel vau…
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Rock of Cashel's Cathedral
This 13th-century Gothic structure overshadows the other ruins. Entry is through a small porch facing the Hall of the Vicars Choral. The cathedral's western location is formed by the Archbishop's Residence, a 15th-century, four-storey castle that had its great hall built over the nave. Soaring above the centre of the cathedral is a huge, square tower with a turret on the southwestern corner.
Scattered throughout are monuments, panels from 16th-century altar tombs, and coats of arms. If you have binoculars, look for the numerous stone heads on capitals and corbels high above the ground.
On the northeastern corner of the cathedral is an 11th- or 12th-century round tower, the…
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Hall of the Vicars Choral
The entrance to the Rock of Cashel is through this 15th-century building, once home to the male choristers who sang in the cathedral. It houses the ticket office. The exhibits in the adjoining undercroft include some very rare silverware, Bronze Age axes and St Patrick's Cross - an impressive, although eroded, 12th-century crutched cross with a crucifixion scene on one face and animals on the other. A replica stands outside, in the castle courtyard.
The kitchen and dining hall upstairs contain some period furniture, tapestries and paintings beneath a fine carved-oak roof and gallery. A 20-minute audiovisual presentation on the Rock's history runs every half hour. Showings…
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Brú Ború
The privately run heritage and cultural centre is next to the car park below the Rock of Cashel, and offers an absorbing insight into Irish traditional music, dance and song. The centre's main attraction, the Sounds of History exhibition, relates the story of Ireland and its music through imaginative audio displays; various other musical events take place in summer.
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Swiss Cottage
A pleasant river side path from behind the town car park meanders 2km south to Cahir Park and the thatched Swiss Cottage, surrounded by roses, lavender and honeysuckle. Built in 1810 as a retreat for Richard Butler, 12th Baron Caher, and his wife, it was designed by London architect John Nash, creator of the Royal Pavilion at Brighton and London's Regent's Park. The cottage-orné style emerged during the late 18th and early 19th centuries in England in response to the prevailing taste for the picturesque. Thatched roofs, natural wood and carved weatherboarding were characteristics and most examples were built as ornamental features on estates.
A lavish example of Regency P…
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Hore Abbey
Cashel throws in another bonus for the heritage lover. This is the formidable ruin of 13th-century Hore Abbey (also known as Hoare Abbey or St Mary's). Originally Benedictine and settled by monks from Glastonbury in England at the end of the 12th century, it later became a Cistercian house. Enjoyably gloomy, it was gifted to the order by a 13th-century archbishop who expelled the Benedictine monks after dreaming that they planned to murder him.
The abbey is just under 1km north of the Rock in flat farmland.
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Mitchels Town Caves
While the Galtee Mountains are mainly sandstone, a narrow band of limestone along their southern side has given rise to the Mitchels town Caves . Superior to Kilkenny's Dunmore Cave and yet less developed for tourists, these caves are among the most extensive in the country with nearly 3km of passages and spectacular chambers full of textbook formations with names such as the Pipe Organ, Tower of Babel, House of Commons and Eagle's Wing. Tours take about 30 minutes. Year-round, the cave temperature remains a constant 12 ˚C, making it feel warm in winter and chilly in summer.
The caves are near Burncourt, 16km southwest of Cahir and signposted on the N8 to Mitchelstown (Ba…
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Ormond Castle
Carrick-on-Suir was once the property of the Butlers, the Earls of Ormond, who built Ormond Castle on the banks of the river in the 14th century. Anne Boleyn, the second of Henry VIII’s wives, may have been born here, though other castles also claim this worthy distinction, possibly hoping to boost their own sales of knick-knacks celebrating the beheaded. The Elizabethan mansion next to the castle was built by the 10th Earl of Ormond, Black Tom Butler, in long-term anticipation of a visit by his cousin, Queen Elizabeth I, who rather thoughtlessly never turned up.
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Castle
Cahir’s awesome castle is feudal fantasy in a big way. A river-island site with moat, rocky foundations, massive walls, turrets and towers, defences and dungeons are all there. This castle is one of Ireland’s largest. Founded by Conor O’Brien in 1142, it was passed to the Butler family in 1375. In 1599 it lost the arms race of its day when the Earl of Essex used cannons to shatter the walls, an event explained with a huge model.
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Cahir Craft Granary
Hundreds of locals toiled away in a notorious linen mill during the 19th century. Almost 200 years later, the once ominous stone building has been reborn as the Cahir Craft Granary, with local artists creating and selling works including pottery, carvings, paintings and jewellery. It's just north of the Square, past the post office.
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McCarthy's
A classic that deserves national acclaim and preservation, McCarthy's proclaims itself as pub, restaurant and undertaker – and not necessarily in that order. This timeless joint has closely spaced wooden booths and tables amid a thicket of treasures dating back to 1840, and the locals are only too happy to chat. And yes, it is an efficient set-up for wakes.
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Chez Hans
Since 1968 this former church has been a place of worship for foodies from all over Ireland and beyond. Still as fresh and inventive as ever, the restaurant gives its blessing to all manner of Irish foods, including lobster, aged beef and quail.
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Cafe Hans
Competition for the 32 seats is fierce at this gourmet cafe run by the same family as Chez Hans next door. There's a fantastic selection of salads, open sandwiches (including succulent prawns with tangy Marie Rose sauce) and filling fish, shellfish, lamb and vegetarian dishes, with a discerning wine selection and mouthwatering desserts like homemade caramel ice cream with butterscotch sauce. Arrive before or after the lunchtime rush or plan on queuing.
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Main Guard
At the junction of Mitchell and Sarsfield Sts is the beautifully restored Main Guard, a Butler courthouse dating from 1675 and based on a design by Christopher Wren. The columned porticos are once again open (after renovations) and exhibits include the ubiquitous model of Clonmel as a walled 17th-century town.
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Tipperary Racecourse
Tipperary Racecourse is one of Ireland’s leading tracks. It’s 3km out of town and has regular meetings during the year; see the local press for details. The course is within walking distance of Limerick Junction station. On race days there are minibus pick-ups from Tipperary town; phone for details.
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Holy Trinity Church
Fethard's Holy Trinity Church and churchyard lie within a captivating time warp. The church is right off Main St and is reached through a cast-iron gateway. Get the keys from the XL Stop & Shop (aka Whyte's) on Main St, 50m west of the gate.
The main part of the building dates from the 13th century, but its ancient walls have been blighted with mortar for weatherproofing. The handsome west tower was added later and has had its sturdy stonework uncovered. It looks more like a fortified tower house and has savage-looking finials on its corner turrets. The interior of the church has an aisled nave and a chancel of typical medieval style, but is sparsely furnished. A ruined ch…
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Cashel Folk Village
An engaging exhibition of old buildings, shopfronts and memorabilia from around the town. It's a bit slipshod in a heart-warming way.
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Sean Tierney
Ketchup red at street level and mustard yellow for the two floors above, this narrow old pub churns out vast portions of pub classics like roasts, lasagne and more. Wander the warren of rooms and floors until you find a table that’s just right.
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Honey Pot
It’s like a farmers market every day at this organic deli and health food store. The fairtrade provenance of goods on sale is explained in detail. The biggest problem with the picnics prepared-to-go is waiting to get to your picnic spot.
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Bolton Library
A forbidding 1836 stone building houses a splendid 18th-century collection of books, maps and manuscripts from the dawn of printing onwards. There are works by writers from Chaucer to Swift.
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Coach Road Inn
The R663 from Bansha and the R664 south from Tipperary converge at Newtown at the Coach Road Inn, a fine old pub that’s popular with walkers and a good source of information on the area.
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Roscrea Heritage Centre
The Roscrea Heritage Centre contains some interesting exhibitions, including one on the medieval monasteries of the midlands and another on early-20th-century farming life.
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Tipp’s Sporting Pub
Tipp’s Sporting Pub is also known as the Kirkham House in honour of the local patriot. This old pub has carvery lunches that include smoked haddock and cod pie.
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