Things to do in County Offaly
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Museum
Three connected conical huts near the entrance house the museum and echo the design of early monastic dwellings. The centre's 20-minute audiovisual show is an excellent introduction to the site.
The exhibition area contains the original high crosses (replicas have been put in their former locations outside), and various artefacts uncovered during excavation, including silver pins, beaded glass and an ogham stone. It also contains the largest collection of early Christian grave slabs in Europe. Many are in remarkable condition with inscriptions clearly visible, often starting with oroit do or ar (a prayer for).
Well done to the museum for their moody display: there's a real…
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Temples
The small es are called temples, a derivation of the Irish word teampall (church). The little, roofed church is Temple Connor, still used by Church of Ireland parishioners on the last Sunday of the summer months. Walking towards the cathedral, you'll pass the scant foundations of Temple Kelly (1167) before reaching tiny Temple Ciarán, reputed to be the burial place of St Ciarán, the site's founder.
The floor level in Temple Ciarán is lower than outside because local farmers have been taking clay from the church for centuries to protect their crops and cattle. The floor has been covered in slabs, but handfuls of clay are still removed from outside the church in the early …
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Round Towers
Overlooking the River Shannon is the 20m-high O'Rourke's Tower. Lightning blasted the top off the tower in 1135, but the remaining structure was used for another 400 years.
Temple Finghin and its round tower are on the northern boundary of the site, also overlooking the Shannon. The building dates from around 1160 and has some fine Romanesque carvings. The herringbone-patterned tower roof is the only one in Ireland that has never been altered. Most round towers became shelters when the monasteries were attacked, but this one was probably just used as a bell tower since the doorway is at ground level.
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Cathedral
The biggest building at Clonmacnoise, the cathedral was originally built in AD 909, but was significantly altered and remodelled over the centuries. Its most interesting feature is the intricate 15th-century Gothic doorway with carvings of Sts Francis, Patrick and Dominic. A whisper carries from one side of the door to the other, and this feature was supposedly used by lepers to confess their sins without infecting the priests.
The last high kings of Tara - Turlough Mór O'Connor (died 1156) and his son Ruairí, or Rory (died 1198) - are said to be buried near the altar.
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Cloghan Castle
About 3km south of Banagher off the R439 in Lusmagh is Cloghan Castle, in use for nearly 800 years. The castle has seen more than its fair share of bloodshed, beginning life as a McCoghlan stronghold and later becoming home to the mighty O’Carroll clan. Today the castle consists of a well-preserved Norman keep and an adjoining 19th-century house full of interesting antiques and armaments. Groups of up to five people can take an hour-long tour of the castle (€35) if you phone in advance. Occasional concerts are also held here. Ask at the tourist office.
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Charleville Castle
Spires, turrets, clinging ivy and creaking trees combine to give this hulking structure a haunted feel. Charleville Castle was the family seat of the Burys, who commissioned the design in 1798 from Francis Johnston, one of Ireland's most famous architects. The interior is spectacular, with stunning ceilings, one of the most striking Gothic-revival galleries in Ireland and a kitchen block built to resemble a country church.
Admission is by 35-minute tour only. If you'd like to help restore this pile, you can join groups of international volunteers; contact the castle for details. The entrance is off the N52, south of Tullamore. Frustration ensues if you go too far and reach…
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JJ Houghs
Rivalling the river as Banagher's most appealing feature, Hough's is a 250-year-old vine-clad pub renowned for its music sessions. You'll find someone playing here most nights in summer and at weekends in winter. If there's no live music, you can entertain yourself by poring over the artefact-covered walls or counting stars in the pleasant beer garden.
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Tullamore Dew Heritage Centre
Located in a 19th-century canalside warehouse, the heritage centre mixes intriguing local history with booze propaganda. Fortunately, the emphasis is on the former and engaging exhibits show the role of the Grand Canal in the town's development. At the end of the tour you'll get to sample what is supposedly the easiest of Irish whiskeys to drink.
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Clonmacnoise & West Offaly Railway Bog Tour
Ride a train into the heart of the Blackwater Bog on this tour which runs on a narrow-gauge railway line once used to transport peat. The diesel locomotive moves at around 10km per hour - slow enough to take in the landscape and its special flora, which has remained unchanged for thousands of years. Stops let you try peat cutting.
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Nun's Church
Beyond the site's boundary wall, 500m east through the modern graveyard, is the secluded Nun's Church. From here the main site, including the towers, is invisible. The church has wonderful Romanesque arches with minute carvings; one has been interpreted as Ireland's earliest sheila-na-gig, but is more probably an acrobat.
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Thatch
A traditional thatched Irish pub, just 2km southeast of Birr off the N62, this 200-year-old inn is a great place to sip a pint or enjoy a hearty meal. It's a hugely popular spot for Sunday lunch, when local families gather in force for the simply prepared meats and seafood. Bar food is also available; book in advance.
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Core Craft Centre
On your way to Clonmacnoise, it's worth stopping here in Ballinahown, to browse the range of contemporary craftwork, bog oak sculpture and pottery on offer. There's an excellent range of items on display and prices are more reasonable than in city craft shops. Ballinahown is on the N62, about 10km from Clonmacnoise.
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Clonmacnoise
Gloriously placed overlooking the River Shannon, Clonmacnoise is one of Ireland’s most important ancient monastic cities. The site is enclosed in a walled field and contains numerous early churches, high crosses, round towers and graves in astonishingly good condition.
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Birr Castle Demesne
It's easy to spend half a day exploring the attractions and gardens of Birr Castle Demesne. The castle is a private home, however, and cannot be visited. Most of the present building dates from around 1620, with alterations made in the early 19th century.
The 50-hectare castle grounds are famous for their magnificent gardens set around a large artificial lake. They hold over 1000 species of plants from all over the world; something always seems to be in bloom. Look for one of the world's tallest box hedges, planted in the 1780s and now standing 12m high, and the romantic Hornbeam cloister.
The Parsons were a remarkable family of pioneering Irish scientists, and their work i…
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Flynns Bar & Restaurant
Popular with locals for its grills, steak and pasta, this local bar also has a restaurant at the back serving a decent selection of reliable, if predictable, dishes.
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Emma's Cafe & Deli
Laid-back and bursting with good food, Emma's is a popular local haunt, serving an interesting range of ciabatta, panini, salads and cakes. There are books and games for children and plenty of tempting deli options for picnics.
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Chestnut
Easily the most appealing pub in the centre, the Chestnut dates to 1823, but has recently been refurbished. The current incarnation mixes dark furniture with a continental cafe style.
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Birr Equestrian Centre
Birr Equestrian Centre, 3km outside Birr on the Clareen road, runs hour-long treks in the surrounding farmland and half-day treks in the Slieve Bloom Mountains.
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Birr Outdoor Education Centre
Birr Outdoor Education Centre offers hill walking, rock climbing and abseiling in the nearby Slieve Blooms, as well as canoeing and kayaking on local rivers.
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Sirocco's
Serving a good selection of fresh pasta and pizza, as well as meat, chicken and fish dishes, this simple little Italian bistro is a local favourite. Booking ahead is advised.
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Craughwell's
Stop for a snootful at Craughwell's, renowned for its rollicking traditional session on Friday night and impromptu sing-along sessions on Saturday.
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Melba's Nite Club
In the basement of Dooly's Hotel, this popular club gives a fine insight into the potato-and-stout-fuelled mating habits of rural Ireland.
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Birr Theatre & Arts Centre
A vibrant place with a regular line-up of films, local drama, well-known musicians and more.
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Carrick Craft
Four- to eight-person berths ranging from €1000 to €2560 per week.
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