Things to do in Drogheda
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St Peter's Roman Catholic Church
Displayed in a glittering brass-and-glass case in the north transept, the shrivelled head of St Oliver Plunkett (1629–81) is this church's main draw (the rest of the martyr was separated at his hanging in 1681). Actually it's two churches in one: the first, designed by Francis Johnston in classical style and built in 1791; and the newer addition, built in the Gothic style visible today.
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St Laurence's Gate
Astride the eastwards extension of the town's main street is St Laurence's Gate, the finest surviving portion of the city walls. This imposing pile of stone is not in fact a gate but instead a barbican, a fortified structure used to defend the gate, which was further behind it.
Dating from the 13th century, the structure was named after St Laurence's Priory, which once stood outside the gate; no traces of it now remain. The barbican consists of two lofty towers, a connecting curtain wall and the entrance to the portcullis. When the town walls were completed in the 13th century, they ran for 3km around the town, enclosing 52 hectares.
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Millmount Museum
A section of the army barracks is now used as the Millmount Museum, which has interesting displays about the town and its history. Exhibits include three wonderful late-18th-century guild banners, perhaps the last in the country. There is also a room devoted to Cromwell’s brutal siege of Drogheda and the Battle of the Boyne. The pretty cobbled basement is full of gadgets and kitchen utensils from bygone times, including a cast-iron pressure cooker and an early model of a sofa bed. There’s also an excellent example of a coracle.
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St Peter’s Church of Ireland
North of the centre of town is St Peter’s Church of Ireland, containing the tombstone of Oliver Goldsmith’s uncle Isaac, as well as an image on the wall depicting two skeletal figures in shrouds, dubiously linked to the Black Death. This is the church whose spire was burned by Cromwell’s men, resulting in the death of 100 people seeking sanctuary inside. Today’s church (1748) is the second replacement of the original destroyed by Cromwell. It stands in an attractive close approached through lovely wrought-iron gates.
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Magdalene Tower
Topping the hill behind the main part of town is the 14th-century Magdalene Tower , the bell tower of a Dominican friary founded in 1224. Here, England's King Richard II, accompanied by a great army, accepted the submission of the Gaelic chiefs with suitable ceremony in 1395, but peace lasted only a few months and Richard's return to Ireland led to his overthrow in 1399.
The earl of Desmond was beheaded here in 1468 because of his treasonous connections with the Gaelic Irish; the tower is also reputed to be haunted by a nun.
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St Peter’s Roman Catholic Church
The shrivelled little head of the martyr St Oliver Plunkett (1629–81) is the main draw at the 19th-century Catholic church, which is actually two churches in one: the first, designed by Francis Johnston in classical style and built in 1791; and the newer addition, built in the Gothic style visible today. Plunkett’s head – from which the rest of him was separated at his hanging in 1681 – is in a glittering brass-and-glass case in the north transept.
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Highlanes Gallery
This impressive gallery is set in a beautifully converted 19th-century monastery. As well as a good permanent collection of paintings, there are regular temporary exhibitions. Attached is a shop featuring high-quality Louth craftwork, and a chic cafe, Andersons.
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C Ní Cairbre
A national treasure, this tiny pub has been owned by the same family since 1880. Old newspaper clippings and long-faded artwork cover most surfaces and it's a great place to catch some traditional music. You might find a session going on any night of the week but especially Tuesday nights and Sunday afternoons.
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Eastern Seaboard Bar & Grill
Build it and they will come… Despite its unpromising location in a business park near the train station, this stylised, contemporary space has been packed since opening, with switched-on staff and quirky details like a backlit decanter collection and metallic fish sculptures. Stunning food like pig's cheek terrine with apple slaw, smoked mackerel pâté, and coffee jelly and vanilla ice cream is served continuously from lunchtime on. Or you could just drop by for frothy German beers on tap.
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D’vine
A little wine-bar-cum-restaurant with a cosy atmosphere and a great selection of Mediterranean foods, this place has excellent platters to start, followed by a largely Italian menu with an emphasis on rustic pasta dishes. It has an excellent wine menu and sometimes has live jazz on Sunday evenings.
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Jaffas
Big, bright and modern with giant windows overlooking the river, this popular place serves a bumper range of soups, sandwiches, panini, bagels, crepes, and baked potatoes with a choice of interesting fillings. Service is swift and there are tables outside for alfresco dining on fine days.
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Peter Matthews
One of Drogheda's top spots for live music, McPhail's (as it's always called, no matter what the sign says) is popular with a younger crowd and features everything from heavy-metal cover bands to trad sessions. There's a traditional bar at the front and a beer garden out the back.
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Bella Atina
Old-school country charm combines with new ideas at this excellent Italian place down by the river. It’s all exposed brick arches and red walls inside, and the menu features classic Italian pastas as well as deftly prepared meat and fish dishes. The cannelloni is a treat.
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La Pizzeria
Watch the dough fly as beautiful pizzas are handcrafted in the traditional open kitchen up front. With wine bottles hanging from the ceiling, this is an Italian joint straight out of central casting. It's busy when everywhere else is empty.
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Martello Tower
This tower played a dramatic role in the 1922 Civil War, when it was Drogheda’s chief defensive feature and suffered heavy shelling from Free State forces. It has recently been restored and offers great views over the town below.
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Andersons
Located in the Highlanes Gallery, this split-level cafe serves a stylish range of bruschetta, bagels and gourmet sandwiches, including open prawn or smoked salmon on multigrain. It also offers baguettes with French brie, as well as cheese, seafood and Mediterranean platters and a great Moroccan salad.
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Butter Gate
The 13th-century Butter Gate, just northwest of Millmount, is the only surviving genuine town gate in Drogheda. This tower, with its arched passageway, predates the remains of St Laurence's Gate by about a century.
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Boyne Viaduct
You can't help but admire the 1855 Boyne Viaduct carrying trains over the river east of the centre. Each of the 18 beautiful stone arches has a 20m span; erecting the piers bankrupted one company.
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Clarke & Sons
This wonderful old boozer is right out of a time capsule. The unrestored wooden interior features snugs and leaded-glass doors that read Open Bar. The pints taste good at this corner classic.
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Earth
At the Westcourt Hotel, Drogheda's biggest nightclub attracts a fairly young crowd and can be a bit of a cattle mart, but the music ranges from club classics to hip hop, house and techno, and there's a great beer garden.
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Monks
At the southern end of Shop St, on the corner of North Quay, this lovely espresso bar and café is a local institution. The sandwiches are inventive and the coffees good.
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Fusion
The beer garden is a big pull here, as is the heaving disco, which runs from Thursday to Sunday night with a mix of '60s, rock, house and dance music. Can you say alcopop?
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Courthouse
The restored 19th-century courthouse is home to the sword and mace presented to the town council by William of Orange after the Battle of the Boyne.
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Redz
A small, chilled-out bar at the front hides a big club out back. DJs, live acts and lots of people getting down keep things going until late.
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Brú
Despite its slick appearance this contemporary bar and bistro is very child-friendly and serves a good but predictable menu of comfort food.
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