Travelling anticlockwise from Killarney, the first town on the Ring is Killorglin (Cill Orglan), 23km northwest. For most of the year, the town is quieter than the waters of the River Laune that lap against the1885-built eight-arched bridge. In August, however, there's an explosion of time-honoured ceremonies at the famous pagan festival, the Puck Fair. A statue of King Puck (a goat) peers out from the Killarney side of the river. Author Blake Morrison documents his mother's childhood here in Things My Mother Never Told Me.