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Introducing Ballydavid

About 2km from Gallarus Castle and Oratory, this little settlement has a fine setting on a sheltered cove and old coastguard breakwater. Europe's westernmost camping ground, Oratory House Camping, is nearby. It's a source of much local information on a mass of activities, especially walking.

The pub, Tigh TP, is a good place for a waterside pint. Next door to it is the Coast Guard Lodge, which has six rooms with private bathrooms that sleep three to four people each in military comfort, and a self-catering kitchen.

Far and away the best place to eat and/or sleep in the area is Gormans Clifftop House. Book ahead to dine on delicious Kerry mountain lamb stew, Dingle Bay prawns and other exquisite dishes. Rooms are airy, contemporary and immaculate, the welcome is warm and the views superb.