Sights in County Galway
-
Kylemore Abbey
A few kilometres east of Letterfrack stands Kylemore Abbey. Magnificently situated on the shores of a lake, this crenulated 19th-century neo-Gothic fantasy was built for a wealthy English businessman, Mitchell Henry, who spent his honeymoon in Connemara. His wife died tragically young.
Admission also covers the abbey's Victorian walled gardens. You can stroll around the lake and surrounding woods for free.
Kylemore's tranquillity is shattered in high summer with the arrival of dozens of tour coaches per day, each one followed through the gates by an average of 50 cars (yes, over 2500 cars a day).
reviewed
-
A
Synge's Chair
At the desolate western edge of the island, Synge's Chair is a lookout at the edge of a sheer limestone cliff with the surf from Gregory's Sound booming below. The cliff ledge is often sheltered from the wind, so do as Synge did and find a comfortable stone seat to take it all in. The formation is two minutes' walk from the parking area; you can leg it around the bleak west side of the island from here in an hour.
On the walk out to Synge's Chair, a sign points the way to a clochán, hidden behind a house and shed.
reviewed
-
B
Spanish Arch & Medieval Walls
Framing the river east of Wolfe Tone Bridge, the Spanish Arch is thought to be an extension of Galway's medieval walls. The arch appears to have been designed as a passageway through which ships entered the city to unload goods, such as wine and brandy from Spain.
Today it reverberates to the beat of bongo drums, and the lawns and riverside form a gathering place for locals and visitors on any sunny day. Many watch kayakers manoeuvre over the minor rapids of the River Corrib.
Although a 1651 drawing of Galway clearly shows its extensive fortifications, depredation by Cromwell and William of Orange and subsequent centuries of neglect saw the walls almost completely disappea…
reviewed
-
C
Eyre Square
Galway's central public square is busy in all but the harshest weather. It's a welcome open green space with sculptures and pathways. Its lawns are formally named Kennedy Park in commemoration of JFK's visit to Galway, though you'll rarely, if ever, hear locals refer to it as anything but Eyre Square.
The street running along the southwestern side of the square is pedestrianised and lined with seating, while the eastern side is taken up almost entirely by the Hotel Meyrick(formerly the Great Southern Hotel), an elegant grey limestone pile restored to its Victorian glory. Guarding the upper side of the square, Browne's Doorway (1627), a classy, if forlorn, fragment from the…
reviewed
-
D
Kenny Gallery
Established in 1968, West Ireland's first gallery displays an exceptional collection of Irish art in a higgledy-piggledy terrace house. Look out for work by up-and-coming Galway artists, including Charlotte Kelly's abstract landscapes, Kieran Tuohy's bog-oak sculptures (crafted from bog-oak roots preserved in the oxygen-resistant turf for thousands of years), Jennifer Cunningham's prints and Liam Butler's welded copper.
All works are for sale, but even if you're not here to buy, Kenny's offers a glimpse into the future of Galweigan art. Proprietor Tom Kenny is a fount of information on the local scene.
Kenny's also trades antiquarian books online, including many Irish-lang…
reviewed
-
E
Salmon Weir
Upstream from Salmon Weir Bridge, which crosses the River Corrib just east of Galway Cathedral, the river cascades down the great weir, one of its final descents before reaching Galway Bay. The weir controls the water levels above it, and when the salmon are running you can often see shoals of them waiting in the clear waters before rushing upriver to spawn.
The salmon and sea-trout seasons usually span February to September, but most fish pass through the weir during May and June.
reviewed
-
Aughnanure Castle
Built around 1500, this bleak fortress was home to the 'Fighting O'Flahertys', who controlled the region for hundreds of years after they fought off the Normans. The six-storey tower house stands on a rocky outcrop overlooking Lough Corrib and has been extensively restored. Surrounding the castle are the remains of an unusual double bawn (area surrounded by walls outside the main castle, acting as a defence and a place to keep cattle in times of trouble), and underneath the castle the lake washes through a number of natural caverns and caves.
Aughnanure Castle is situated 3km east of Oughterard, off the main Galway road (N59).
reviewed
-
F
Tobar Éinne
Locals still carry out a pilgrimage known as the Turas to the Well of Enda, an ever- burbling spring in a remote rocky expanse in the southwest. The ceremony involves, over the course of three consecutive Sundays, picking up seven stones from the ground nearby and walking around the small well seven times, putting one stone down each time, while saying the rosary until an elusive eel appears from the well's watery depths. If, during this ritual, you're lucky enough to see the eel, it's said your tongue will be bestowed with healing powers, enabling you to literally lick wounds.
reviewed
-
Connemara Heritage & History Centre
Farmer Dan O'Hara lived here until his eviction from the farm and subsequent emigration to New York, where he ended up selling matches on the street. Its present owners have restored the property, turning it into a window onto lost traditional ways, with demonstrations of bog cutting, thatching, sheep shearing and so on. It's possible to stay at the farmhouse in more comfort than Dan ever enjoyed. The homestead is 7km east of Clifden on the N59.
reviewed
-
G
Galway Cathedral
Lording over the River Corrib, imposing Galway Cathedral was dedicated by the late Cardinal Richard Cushing of Boston in 1965. The cathedral's unwieldy full name is the Catholic Cathedral of Our Lady Assumed into Heaven and St Nicholas, but its high, curved arches and central dome have a simple, solid elegance even if the greater whole feels rather sterile (although a side chapel with a mosaic of the Resurrection does include a praying JFK in the tableau). The superb acoustics are best appreciated during an organ recital (program dates are posted on the website).
From the Spanish Arch, a riverside path runs upriver and across the Salmon Weir Bridge to the cathedral.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Coole Park
Once home of Lady Augusta Gregory, cofounder of the Abbey Theatre and a patron of Yeats, the house here was demolished by nitwit bureaucrats in 1941. But displays recall its literary legacy and the present-day nature reserve is a beautiful place to stroll. Look for the autograph tree, on which many of Lady Gregory's literary guests carved their initials. It's about 3km north of Gort off the N18.
reviewed
-
H
Salthill Prom
A favourite pastime for Galweigans and visitors alike is walking along the Salthill Prom, the seaside promenade running from the edge of the city along Salthill. Local tradition dictates 'kicking the wall' across from the diving boards (a 30- to 45-minute stroll from town) before turning around. At the time of writing, plans were underway to extend the Prom all the way from Salthill to Silver Strand - about 7.5km all up.
reviewed
-
Dunguaire Castle
The chess-piece-style Dunguaire Castle was erected around 1520 by the O'Hynes clan and is in excellent condition following extensive restoration. It is widely believed that the castle occupies the former site of the 6th-century royal palace of Guaire Aidhne, the king of Connaught. Dunguaire's owners have included Oliver St John Gogarty (1878–1957) – poet, writer, surgeon and Irish Free State senator.
The least authentic way to visit the castle is to attend a medieval banquet. Yuck-filled stage shows and shtick provide diversions while you plough through a big group meal.
reviewed
-
I
Dún Aengus
Three spectacular forts stand guard over Inishmór, each believed to be around 2000 years old. Chief among them is Dún Aengus, which has three nonconcentric walls that run right up to sheer drops to the ocean below. It is protected by remarkable chevaux de frise, fearsome and densely packed defensive stone spikes that surely helped deter ancient armies from invading the site.
Powerful swells pound the 60m-high cliff face. A complete lack of rails or other modern additions that would spoil this amazing ancient site means that you can not only go right up to the cliff's edge but also potentially fall to your doom below quite easily. When it's uncrowded, you can't help but f…
reviewed
-
J
O'Brien's Castle
A 100m climb to the island's highest point yields dramatic views over clover-covered fields to the beach and harbour. This 15th-century church (Caisleán Uí Bhriain) was built within the remains of a ring fort called Dún Formna, dating from as early as the 1st century AD. You can freely explore the ruins inside and out. Nearby is an 18th-century signal tower.
reviewed
-
Thoor Ballyle
This 16th-century Norman tower was the summer home of Yeats from 1922 to 1929 and was the inspiration for one of his best-known works, The Tower. In a truly inspired setting by a stream, the tower contains the poet's furnishings. Yeats once wrote 'The sand is running from the upper glass, And when the last grain's through, I shall be lost', a quote which you may well relate to after your last grain falls through while you try to find this place. From Gort take the Loughrea road (N66) for about 3km northeast and look for signs – but these are often misaligned – or just missing. Be prepared to ask.
reviewed
-
Connemara National Park
Immediately southeast of Letterfrack, Connemara National Park spans 2000 dramatic hectares of bog, mountain and heath. The visitor centre is in a beautiful setting off a parking area 300m south of the Letterfrack crossroads.
The park encloses a number of the Twelve Bens, including Bencullagh, Benbrack and Benbaun. The heart of the park is Gleann Mór (Big Glen), through which the River Polladirk flows. There's fine walking up the glen and over the surrounding mountains. There are also short, self-guided walks and, if the Bens look too daunting, you can hike up Diamond Hill nearby.
The visitor centre offers an introduction to the park's flora, fauna and geology, and visitors…
reviewed
-
K
Bold Art Gallery
There’s never a dull moment at this effervescent modern art gallery, which seems to have a bottomless pit of inspiration when it comes to wit. Works vary between the profane, the beautiful and the moving but are never mundane. The owner is a fountain of local knowledge; ask to see the card showing what happens before and after you drink Guinness.
reviewed
-
L
Lynch's Castle
Considered the finest town castle in Ireland, the old stone town house Lynch's Castle was built in the 14th century, though much of what you see today dates from around 1600. The Lynch family was the most powerful of the 14 ruling Galway 'tribes', and its members held the position of mayor no fewer than 80 times between 1480 and 1650.
Stonework on the castle's facade includes ghoulish gargoyles and the coats of arms of Henry VII, the Lynches and the Fitzgeralds of Kildare. The castle is now part of AIB Bank and modern-day bankers may wish to shelter behind the thick walls from populist rage.
reviewed
-
M
Galway City Museum
Adjacent to the Spanish Arch, the Galway City Museum is in a glossy, glassy building that reflects the old walls. Exhibits trace aspects of daily life through Galway's history;
especially good are the areas dealing with life – smelly and otherwise – during medieval times. Look for the photos of President John F Kennedy's 1963 visit to Galway including one with dew-eyed nuns looking on adoringly. Also check out rotating displays of works by local artists. When the roof deck is open, there are sweeping views out to the bay. The cafe is a delightful stop.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
N
Nora Barnacle House
James Joyce's future wife Nora Barnacle (1884–1951) lived here until shortly before they met in Dublin in 1904. It's now a privately owned museum displaying the couple's letters and photographs among period furniture. Looking all of its 100 years and not helped by a grim grey paint job, the house didn't have running water until the 1940s; instead the Barnacle family used a communal pump across the street. Joyce met his future mother-in-law here in 1909; for his part, Joyce's father said after learning Nora's surname: 'She'll stick with him'.
reviewed
-
Spiddal Craft & Design Studios
As you approach the village of Spiddal, situated on your right are the Spiddal Craft & Design Studios, where you can watch woodworkers, leather workers, sculptors and weavers plying their crafts, or have lunch at Bistro Jackie (Tel: 091-55030), which offers superlative soda bread.
reviewed
-
Glengowla Mines
For such ugly work, it's amazing that beautiful materials were extracted from this mine, a 19th-century hole in the ground that yielded all manner of silver, glistening quartz and much more. Visitors learn about the tough lives led here and see some of the beauty left inside. It is 3km west of Oughterard off the N59.
reviewed
-
Na Seacht dTeampaill
Past Kilmurvey is the perfect Clochán na Carraige, an early-Christian stone hut that stands 2.5m tall, and various small early-Christian ruins known rather inaccurately as the Na Seacht dTeampaill, comprising a couple of ruined churches, monastic houses and some fragments of a high cross from the 8th or 9th century.
reviewed
-
O
Aran Heritage Centre
For an informed appreciation of all three islands' history, geology and wildlife, stop in at the Aran Heritage Centre, just off the main road leading out of Kilronan. The admission fee covers regular screenings of Robert Flaherty's 1934 film Man of Aran. The centre also has a coffee shop.
reviewed
