Things to do in Aran Islands
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Synge's Chair
At the desolate western edge of the island, Synge's Chair is a lookout at the edge of a sheer limestone cliff with the surf from Gregory's Sound booming below. The cliff ledge is often sheltered from the wind, so do as Synge did and find a comfortable stone seat to take it all in. The formation is two minutes' walk from the parking area; you can leg it around the bleak west side of the island from here in an hour.
On the walk out to Synge's Chair, a sign points the way to a clochán, hidden behind a house and shed.
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Teach Ósta
The island's perfect pub hums on summer evenings (grab a table outside for the views) and supplies snacks, sandwiches, soups and seafood platters. Though the pub often keeps going until the wee hours, food service generally stops around 7pm and may not be available in the winter months.
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Joe Watty's Bar
This is the best pub in Kilronan, with traditional sessions most nights and rather posh pub food (noon to 8pm) from June to August. Turf fires warm the air on the 50 weeks a year when this is needed.
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Tobar Éinne
Locals still carry out a pilgrimage known as the Turas to the Well of Enda, an ever- burbling spring in a remote rocky expanse in the southwest. The ceremony involves, over the course of three consecutive Sundays, picking up seven stones from the ground nearby and walking around the small well seven times, putting one stone down each time, while saying the rosary until an elusive eel appears from the well's watery depths. If, during this ritual, you're lucky enough to see the eel, it's said your tongue will be bestowed with healing powers, enabling you to literally lick wounds.
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Dún Aengus
Three spectacular forts stand guard over Inishmór, each believed to be around 2000 years old. Chief among them is Dún Aengus, which has three nonconcentric walls that run right up to sheer drops to the ocean below. It is protected by remarkable chevaux de frise, fearsome and densely packed defensive stone spikes that surely helped deter ancient armies from invading the site.
Powerful swells pound the 60m-high cliff face. A complete lack of rails or other modern additions that would spoil this amazing ancient site means that you can not only go right up to the cliff's edge but also potentially fall to your doom below quite easily. When it's uncrowded, you can't help but f…
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O'Brien's Castle
A 100m climb to the island's highest point yields dramatic views over clover-covered fields to the beach and harbour. This 15th-century church (Caisleán Uí Bhriain) was built within the remains of a ring fort called Dún Formna, dating from as early as the 1st century AD. You can freely explore the ruins inside and out. Nearby is an 18th-century signal tower.
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Inis Oírr Way
The signposted 10.5km Inis Oírr Way walking path brings you past the rusting hulk of the Plassy, a freighter wrecked in 1960 and thrown high up onto the rocks. Miraculously, all on board were saved; Tigh Ned's pub has a collection of photographs and documents detailing the rescue. An aerial shot of the wreck was used in the opening sequence of the iconic TV series Father Ted.
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Na Seacht dTeampaill
Past Kilmurvey is the perfect Clochán na Carraige, an early-Christian stone hut that stands 2.5m tall, and various small early-Christian ruins known rather inaccurately as the Na Seacht dTeampaill, comprising a couple of ruined churches, monastic houses and some fragments of a high cross from the 8th or 9th century.
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Aran Heritage Centre
For an informed appreciation of all three islands' history, geology and wildlife, stop in at the Aran Heritage Centre, just off the main road leading out of Kilronan. The admission fee covers regular screenings of Robert Flaherty's 1934 film Man of Aran. The centre also has a coffee shop.
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Teampall Chaoimháin
Named for Inisheer's patron saint, who is buried close by, the roofless 10th-century Church of St Kevin and small cemetery perch on a tiny bluff near the Strand. On the eve of St Kevin's 14 June feast day, a mass is held here in the open air at 9pm. Those with ailments sleep here for the night to be healed.
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American Bar
Two large rooms fill with happy pint quaffers throughout the year. In low season sloshed locals anticipate the next year of tourists (especially the namesakes of the bar). The room on the right as you enter, with its windows and access to the terrace, is the best bet.
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Mary O'Flahrety
Shops around Kilronan mostly sell machine-knitted Aran sweaters. For a much heavier, hand-knitted version, visit Mary O'Flahrety. Chances are you'll see Mary knitting when you call in. Expect to pay around €100 for a genuine hand-knitted sweater.
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Tig Congaile
Not far from the pier, Guatemalan-born Vilma Conneely adds unexpected diversity to the local dining scene, making the most of limited local ingredients. She does a fine sea vegetable soup and her vegetable-and-herb quiche is wonderful.
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pony traps
To see the island at a gentler pace, pony traps with a driver are available for trips between Kilronan and Dún Aengus. If the pony traps are not waiting by the pier, walk to the tourist office to ask where they're stationed.
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Áras Éanna
Inisheer's large community arts centre sits out on an exposed stretch of the northern side of the island, a 15-minute walk from the village. It has visiting artists programs through the summer and various cultural programs and performances.
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Mary O’Flaherty
Visit Mary O’Flaherty for heavy, hand-knitted Aran sweaters. Chances are you’ll see Mary knitting when you call in. Expect to pay around €100 for a genuine hand-knitted sweater.
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Inisheer Heritage House
West of the small, sandy beach next to the pier, Inisheer Heritage House is a traditional stone-built thatched cottage with some interesting old photographs. It also has a craft shop and café.
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Cill Ghobnait
The tiny 8th- or 9th-century Church of St Gobnait is named after Gobnait, who fled here from Clare while trying to escape an enemy who was pursuing her.
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Pier House Guest House
Sitting on the large terrace watching the ferries come and go while grazing your way through a platter of local seafood is one of the island's joys. There's a fireplace inside for when it blows.
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Tigh Fitz
Near the airport, this jovial pub has traditional sessions and set dancing every weekend and does excellent bar food (noon to 5pm) from June to August. It's 1.6km from Kilronan (about a 25-minute walk).
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Cniotáil Inis Meáin
This factory exports fine woollen garments to some of the world's most exclusive shops. You can buy the same sweaters here; call before visiting.
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Spar supermarket
The Bank of Ireland ( M0406; Kilronan; ;10:00-12:30 & 13:30-15:00 Wed), north of the village centre, doesn't have an ATM, but you'll find one in Kilronan's small Spar supermarket.
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O'Malley's@Bayview
The terrace here has commanding harbour views. The simple menu belies the talents of the kitchen; choices include fine fish chowder, good burgers and pizza, plus fresh fish at night. Even the garlic bread is good.
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Aran Cycle Hire
Aran Cycle Hire, near the pier, hires out sturdy bikes, which it'll deliver to your accommodation anywhere on the island. You can also bring your own bicycle on the ferry for free.
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Tigh Ned
Here since 1897, Tigh Ned is a welcoming, unpretentious place, with lively traditional music and inexpensive lunchtime fare. Tables in the garden have harbour views.
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