Things to do in County Clare
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Doolin Cave
The Doolin area is popular with cavers. A little over 1km north of Roadford you’ll find Doolin Cave, which boasts an enormous stalactite that looks like a giant squid. The main entrance is at the Fisherstreet Potholes; tour times vary by season.
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Linnane's
Irish standards like smoked sal- mon and more are fully honoured here. Peat fires warm the almost bare interior; nary a frill in sight. There's trad music many nights in summer.
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Biddy Early Brewery
A splendid antidote to Ireland’s dismal beer scene (yeah, we know about Guinness but what about some variety, huh?) can be found right at the intersection of the Ennistymon (N85) and the Kilfenora (R481) roads in Inagh, 16km northeast of Ennis. Biddy Early Brewery is a rarity for the Emerald Isle: a great microbrewery serving its own range of beers. The Black Biddy Irish Stout recalls every bit of bold flavour that’s been mass-marketed out of the corporate stouts. All beers are made with natural ingredients and there’s often seasonal specials like Buzzy Biddy, an organic honey beer perfect for long summer nights. Enjoy a pint in the airy pub or outside at tables; there’…
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Bunratty Castle
Square and hulking Bunratty Castle is only the latest of several constructions to occupy its location beside the River Ratty. Vikings founded a settlement here in the 10th century, and other occupants included the Norman Thomas de Clare in the 1270s. The present structure was put up in the early 1400s by the energetic MacNamara family, falling shortly thereafter to the O’Briens, kings of Thomond, in whose possession it remained until the 17th century. Admiral Penn, father of William Penn, who was the Quaker founder of the US state of Pennsylvania and the city of Philadelphia, lived here for a short time.
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Caherconnell Fort
For a look at a well-preserved caher (walled fort) of the late Iron Age-Early Christian period, stop at Caherconnell Fort, a privately run heritage attraction that's more serious than sideshow. Exhibits detail how the evolution of these defensive settlements may have reflected territorialism and competition for land among a growing, settling population. The drystone walling of the fort is in excellent condition. The top-notch visitor centre also has information on many other monuments in the area. It's about 1km south of Poulnabrone Dolman on the R480.
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Shannon Dolphin & Wildlife Centre
A research facility monitoring the 100 or so dolphins swimming out in the Shannon. Look for the mural of the dolphin on the front of the building, which houses exhibits on the playful cetaceans.
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Daniel O'Connell Monument
In the town centre, the Square, is a Daniel O'Connell Monument. His election to the British parliament by a huge majority in 1828 forced Britain to lift its bar on Catholic MPs and led to the Act of Catholic Emancipation a year later. The 'Great Liberator' stands on an extremely high column, so far above the rest of us you would hardly know he was there. Eamon de Valera was teachta Dála (TD; member of the Irish Parliament) for Clare from 1917 to 1959.
There is also a bronze statue of him near Ennis courthouse.
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Burren Perfumery & Floral Centre
This sweet-smelling stop is a creative treasure. It uses wildflowers of the Burren to produce its scents, and is the only handicraft perfumery in Ireland. There's a free audiovisual presentation on the flora of the Burren, which has a surprising diversity. One example: the many fragrant orchids that grow among the rocks. The centre has an organic cafe, and native and herb gardens. Look for perfumery signs at the T-junction near Carron church. Note that tour buses aren't welcome.
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Aillwee Caves
Send the kids underground. The main cave here penetrates 600m into the mountain, widening into larger caverns, one with its own waterfall. The caves were carved out by water some two million years ago. Near the entrance are the remains of a brown bear, extinct in Ireland for more than 10,000 years. Often crowded in summer, there's a cafe, and a large raptor exhibit has captive hawks, owls and more. A shop sells locally produced Burren Gold cheese, which is excellent.
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Killaloe Cathedral
The present church dates from the early 13th century and was built by the O'Brien family on top of a 6th-century church. Inside, ornate carvings decorate the Romanesque southern doorway, next to which is the shaft of a stone cross, known as Thorgrim's Stone. It dates from the early Christian period and is unusual in that it bears both the old Scandinavian runic and Irish Ogham scripts. In the cathedral grounds is St Flannan's Oratory, of 12th-century Romanesque design.
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Green Holes of Doolin
The rocks to the north of Doolin Harbour are honeycombed with an unusual system of undersea caves called the Green Holes of Doolin. They're the longest known undersea caves in temperate waters. Nondivers can look, with care, into Hell, a large gash in the rocks, north of the harbour and about 50m from the sea. The gash is about 6m wide, and the heaving water at the bottom leads to a maze of submarine passages.
Note that all unguided caves require experience and full equipment.
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Craggaunowen
For more ancient Irish heritage tarted up for the masses, visit Craggaunowen. Around 6km southeast of Quin, the complex includes recreated ancient farms, dwellings such as a crannóg (artificial island) and a 5th-century ring fort, plus real artefacts including a 2000-year-old oak road. Craggaunowen Castle is a small, well-preserved MacNamara fortified house. With lots of animals like snot-nosed boars, this is a good place for kids who like dirty critters.
Nearby Cullaun Lake is a popular boating and picnic spot, and there are forest trails nearby.
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Burren Smokehouse
You can learn about the ancient Irish art of oak-smoking salmon from a video (available in six languages) at the Burren Smokehouse. Tasty smoked salmon and other fishies in a myriad of forms are offered for free tasting – perhaps you'll even buy some? Good coffee and tea are sold along with other deli-type foods suitable for picnics. Tourist information is also available. The smokehouse is at the edge of Lisdoonvarna on the Kincora road (N67).
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Ennis Friary
Just north of the Square is Ennis Friary. It was founded by Donnchadh Cairbreach O'Brien, king of Thomond, sometime between 1240 and 1249 and is a mix of structures dating between the 14th and 19th centuries. A new roof finally replaced one destroyed a mere 200 years ago. Although it pales against the ruins found elsewhere in Clare, it does have a graceful five-section window dating from the late 13th century, and a McMahon tomb (1460) with alabaster panels depicting scenes from the Passion.
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Vandeleur Walled Garden
This remarkable 'lost' garden was the private domain of the wealthy Vandeleur family – merchants and landowners who engaged in harsh evictions and forced emigration of local people in the 19th century (a current resident said of the Vandeleur: 'That lot fled at liberation'). The gardens lie within a large walled area just east of the centre and have been redesigned and planted with colourful tropical and rare plants. Woodland trails wind around the area, and there's also a cafe.
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Knappogue Castle & Walled Garden
About 3km southeast of Quin is Knappogue Castle & Walled Garden. It was built in 1467 by the MacNamaras, who held sway over a large part of Clare from the 5th to the mid-15th century and like early fast-food franchisers littered the region with 42 castles. Knappogue's walls are intact, and it has a fine collection of period furniture and fireplaces. The formal gardens have been restored.
When Oliver Cromwell came to Ireland in 1649, he used Knappogue as a base, which is one of the reasons it was spared destruction. The MacNamara family regained the castle after the Restoration in 1660, and since then windows and other features have been added to make it more 'liveable'.
Kna…
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Clare Museum
Sharing the same building as the tourist office is this diverting little museum. The 'Riches of Clare' exhibition tells the story of Clare from 8000 years ago to the present day using original artefacts grouped into four themes: earth, power, faith and water. It also recounts the development of the submarine by Clare-born JP Holland, who's good for at least two of the themes.
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Cois na hAbhna
This pilgrimage point for traditional music and culture is housed in a custom-built pentagonal hall 1.5km north of town along the N18. It has frequent performances and a full range of classes in dance and music. The archive is a resource centre and a library of Irish traditional music, song, dance and folklore relating mainly to County Clare; books and recordings are on sale.
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Vaughan's Pub
Seafood, traditional foods and local produce feature on the Vaughan's appealing menu. The pub has a big reputation in Irish music circles. There's music in the bar every night during the summer and on many nights the rest of the year. The adjacent barn is the scene of terrific set-dancing sessions on Thursday and Sunday nights. Have a pint under the big tree out front.
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Glór
Clare's cultural centre is in a striking modern building. Art, traditional music, theatre, dance, photography and film are some of the programs offered.
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Cassidy's
Cassidy's serves up a good range of pub dishes, several with witty names reflecting the establishment's previous incarnation as a British Royal Irish Constabulary (RIC) station, and then as a garda (police) barracks. Enjoy trad music and dancing some weekends. The views from the terrace are as intoxicating as the drink.
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Crotty’s
The most atmospheric spot on the Clare side of the water, Crotty’s has picnic tables outside that you won’t want to leave, especially on long summer nights. Inside it could be the model for the perfect old pub anywhere (and it’s the real deal). Fish and chips and burgers rise above the norm, and the purveyors of the foods are listed.
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Durty Nelly's
Thronging with tourists all summer long, Nelly's manages to provide some charm amid the hubbub, right across from the castle. Meals are better than you'd expect, although the pub is more enjoyable than the restaurant upstairs. There are trad sessions many nights.
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Eugene's
Not to be missed, Eugene's is a classic pub that defines craic. Intimate, cosy and has a trademark collection of visiting cards covering its walls, alongside photographs of famous writers and musicians. The inspiring collection of whiskey (Irish) and whisky (Scottish) will have you smoothly debating their relative merits.
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