Sights in County Clare
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Bunratty Castle
Square and hulking Bunratty Castle is only the latest of several constructions to occupy its location beside the River Ratty. Vikings founded a settlement here in the 10th century, and other occupants included the Norman Thomas de Clare in the 1270s. The present structure was put up in the early 1400s by the energetic MacNamara family, falling shortly thereafter to the O’Briens, kings of Thomond, in whose possession it remained until the 17th century. Admiral Penn, father of William Penn, who was the Quaker founder of the US state of Pennsylvania and the city of Philadelphia, lived here for a short time.
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Caherconnell Fort
For a look at a well-preserved caher (walled fort) of the late Iron Age-Early Christian period, stop at Caherconnell Fort, a privately run heritage attraction that's more serious than sideshow. Exhibits detail how the evolution of these defensive settlements may have reflected territorialism and competition for land among a growing, settling population. The drystone walling of the fort is in excellent condition. The top-notch visitor centre also has information on many other monuments in the area. It's about 1km south of Poulnabrone Dolman on the R480.
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Shannon Dolphin & Wildlife Centre
A research facility monitoring the 100 or so dolphins swimming out in the Shannon. Look for the mural of the dolphin on the front of the building, which houses exhibits on the playful cetaceans.
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Daniel O'Connell Monument
In the town centre, the Square, is a Daniel O'Connell Monument. His election to the British parliament by a huge majority in 1828 forced Britain to lift its bar on Catholic MPs and led to the Act of Catholic Emancipation a year later. The 'Great Liberator' stands on an extremely high column, so far above the rest of us you would hardly know he was there. Eamon de Valera was teachta Dála (TD; member of the Irish Parliament) for Clare from 1917 to 1959.
There is also a bronze statue of him near Ennis courthouse.
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Burren Perfumery & Floral Centre
This sweet-smelling stop is a creative treasure. It uses wildflowers of the Burren to produce its scents, and is the only handicraft perfumery in Ireland. There's a free audiovisual presentation on the flora of the Burren, which has a surprising diversity. One example: the many fragrant orchids that grow among the rocks. The centre has an organic cafe, and native and herb gardens. Look for perfumery signs at the T-junction near Carron church. Note that tour buses aren't welcome.
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Aillwee Caves
Send the kids underground. The main cave here penetrates 600m into the mountain, widening into larger caverns, one with its own waterfall. The caves were carved out by water some two million years ago. Near the entrance are the remains of a brown bear, extinct in Ireland for more than 10,000 years. Often crowded in summer, there's a cafe, and a large raptor exhibit has captive hawks, owls and more. A shop sells locally produced Burren Gold cheese, which is excellent.
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Killaloe Cathedral
The present church dates from the early 13th century and was built by the O'Brien family on top of a 6th-century church. Inside, ornate carvings decorate the Romanesque southern doorway, next to which is the shaft of a stone cross, known as Thorgrim's Stone. It dates from the early Christian period and is unusual in that it bears both the old Scandinavian runic and Irish Ogham scripts. In the cathedral grounds is St Flannan's Oratory, of 12th-century Romanesque design.
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Green Holes of Doolin
The rocks to the north of Doolin Harbour are honeycombed with an unusual system of undersea caves called the Green Holes of Doolin. They're the longest known undersea caves in temperate waters. Nondivers can look, with care, into Hell, a large gash in the rocks, north of the harbour and about 50m from the sea. The gash is about 6m wide, and the heaving water at the bottom leads to a maze of submarine passages.
Note that all unguided caves require experience and full equipment.
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Craggaunowen
For more ancient Irish heritage tarted up for the masses, visit Craggaunowen. Around 6km southeast of Quin, the complex includes recreated ancient farms, dwellings such as a crannóg (artificial island) and a 5th-century ring fort, plus real artefacts including a 2000-year-old oak road. Craggaunowen Castle is a small, well-preserved MacNamara fortified house. With lots of animals like snot-nosed boars, this is a good place for kids who like dirty critters.
Nearby Cullaun Lake is a popular boating and picnic spot, and there are forest trails nearby.
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Burren Smokehouse
You can learn about the ancient Irish art of oak-smoking salmon from a video (available in six languages) at the Burren Smokehouse. Tasty smoked salmon and other fishies in a myriad of forms are offered for free tasting – perhaps you'll even buy some? Good coffee and tea are sold along with other deli-type foods suitable for picnics. Tourist information is also available. The smokehouse is at the edge of Lisdoonvarna on the Kincora road (N67).
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Ennis Friary
Just north of the Square is Ennis Friary. It was founded by Donnchadh Cairbreach O'Brien, king of Thomond, sometime between 1240 and 1249 and is a mix of structures dating between the 14th and 19th centuries. A new roof finally replaced one destroyed a mere 200 years ago. Although it pales against the ruins found elsewhere in Clare, it does have a graceful five-section window dating from the late 13th century, and a McMahon tomb (1460) with alabaster panels depicting scenes from the Passion.
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Vandeleur Walled Garden
This remarkable 'lost' garden was the private domain of the wealthy Vandeleur family – merchants and landowners who engaged in harsh evictions and forced emigration of local people in the 19th century (a current resident said of the Vandeleur: 'That lot fled at liberation'). The gardens lie within a large walled area just east of the centre and have been redesigned and planted with colourful tropical and rare plants. Woodland trails wind around the area, and there's also a cafe.
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Knappogue Castle & Walled Garden
About 3km southeast of Quin is Knappogue Castle & Walled Garden. It was built in 1467 by the MacNamaras, who held sway over a large part of Clare from the 5th to the mid-15th century and like early fast-food franchisers littered the region with 42 castles. Knappogue's walls are intact, and it has a fine collection of period furniture and fireplaces. The formal gardens have been restored.
When Oliver Cromwell came to Ireland in 1649, he used Knappogue as a base, which is one of the reasons it was spared destruction. The MacNamara family regained the castle after the Restoration in 1660, and since then windows and other features have been added to make it more 'liveable'.
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Clare Museum
Sharing the same building as the tourist office is this diverting little museum. The 'Riches of Clare' exhibition tells the story of Clare from 8000 years ago to the present day using original artefacts grouped into four themes: earth, power, faith and water. It also recounts the development of the submarine by Clare-born JP Holland, who's good for at least two of the themes.
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The Square
The old town centre is on the Square, and the principal streets - O'Connell St, High St (becoming Parnell St), Bank Pl and Abbey St - radiate from there. There's been an effort to create some pedestrian quarters around Parnell St with mixed results. You can change money and use ATMs at various banks on the Square.
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Clare Heritage Centre
Corofin is home to the interesting Clare Heritage Centre, housed in an old church and with a display covering the horrors of the Great Famine. More than 250,000 people lived in Clare before the Famine; even today the county's population is only about 106,000 – a drop of almost 60%. The Clare Genealogical Centre, in a separate building nearby, has facilities for people researching their Clare ancestry.
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East Clare Heritage Centre
Tuamgraney, at the junction of the road to Mountshannon (R352), has a small museum, the East Clare Heritage Centre. Although the museum keeps erratic hours, the surrounding moody parish cemetery is a fascinating look into Irish genealogy.
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Bunratty Folk Park
The folk park adjoins the Bunratty Castle. It is a reconstructed traditional Irish village with cottages, a forge and working blacksmith, weavers and pie-makers. There’s a complete village street with a post office, pub and small cafe.
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Weathered Woman Sculpture
Numerous modern sculptures can be found scattered around the centre. Works such as the Weathered Woman on Old Barrack St are both interesting and provide a handy place to sit. Get the Ennis Sculpture Trail map from the tourist office.
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Daniel O'Connell Bronze Statue
Daniel O'Connell's election to the British parliament by a huge majority in 1828 forced Britain to lift its bar on Catholic MPs and led to the Act of Catholic Emancipation a year later. There is also a monument of him in the Square.
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Fisherstreet Potholes
The Doolin area is popular with cavers. Check out the Fisherstreet Potholes.
Note that all unguided caves require experience and full equipment.
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St Senan’s Catholic Church
St Senan’s Catholic church contains eight detailed examples of stained glass by well-known early 20th-century artist Harry Clarke.
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Courthouse Studios & Gallery
Besides excellent pubs and good sleeping options, Ennistymon has a healthy arts scene. These studios are in an impressively renovated 1800 building with ever-changing exhibitions by local and international artists.
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Naturequest Gallery
The local flora and fauna are the inspiration at Naturequest Gallery, an artist-run gallery just off the Butter Market.
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Ennis Cathedral
The large but fairly mundane 1843 Cathedral is at the southern end of O'Connell St; it's spire is a useful landmark from afar.
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