Things to do in Eastern & Southeastern Clare
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Bunratty Castle
Square and hulking Bunratty Castle is only the latest of several constructions to occupy its location beside the River Ratty. Vikings founded a settlement here in the 10th century, and other occupants included the Norman Thomas de Clare in the 1270s. The present structure was put up in the early 1400s by the energetic MacNamara family, falling shortly thereafter to the O’Briens, kings of Thomond, in whose possession it remained until the 17th century. Admiral Penn, father of William Penn, who was the Quaker founder of the US state of Pennsylvania and the city of Philadelphia, lived here for a short time.
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Killaloe Cathedral
The present church dates from the early 13th century and was built by the O'Brien family on top of a 6th-century church. Inside, ornate carvings decorate the Romanesque southern doorway, next to which is the shaft of a stone cross, known as Thorgrim's Stone. It dates from the early Christian period and is unusual in that it bears both the old Scandinavian runic and Irish Ogham scripts. In the cathedral grounds is St Flannan's Oratory, of 12th-century Romanesque design.
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Crotty’s
The most atmospheric spot on the Clare side of the water, Crotty’s has picnic tables outside that you won’t want to leave, especially on long summer nights. Inside it could be the model for the perfect old pub anywhere (and it’s the real deal). Fish and chips and burgers rise above the norm, and the purveyors of the foods are listed.
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Durty Nelly's
Thronging with tourists all summer long, Nelly's manages to provide some charm amid the hubbub, right across from the castle. Meals are better than you'd expect, although the pub is more enjoyable than the restaurant upstairs. There are trad sessions many nights.
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Creamery Bar
An old utility building has been converted into an agreeable pub right near the folk park entrance. It’s never going to be authentic, but it’s not a bad stop if you’re here. If nothing else you can learn about local culture from the food menu: eg chicken-nugget-like creations are called ‘goujons of chicken’ in Ireland.
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Molly's Bar & Restaurant
Guarding the east flank of the bridge, this riverside pub has an alluring rooftop deck that puts you high above the coagulated traffic as well as waterside picnic tables. It offers Irish standards such as bacon and cabbage, plus pub classics like pizza and burgers. Weekend nights there's a festival of live music and DJs.
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River Run
Small, smart and stylish, this blue-fronted bistro has food as creative as the local art for sale on the walls. The selections are kept minimal, but always include good seafood, meat and veggie options. The more casual lunch menu is served until closing.
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Gooser's Bar & Eating House
Only the masses of fun-seekers on busy weekends diminish the Gooser's experience. This is a hugely popular thatched pub, noted for its big selection of fish. Sailors make mirth and plough into the hefty seafood platter in the restaurant or go for pub fare at tables outside.
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Mac's Bar
This engaging place is actually part of the folk park village. It has traditional music many evenings from June to September, and at weekends the rest of the year. Ignore it during the day, but after the park closes (you can still get in) it starts to feel real.
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Bunratty Folk Park
The folk park adjoins the Bunratty Castle. It is a reconstructed traditional Irish village with cottages, a forge and working blacksmith, weavers and pie-makers. There’s a complete village street with a post office, pub and small cafe.
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Liam O'Riains
At this grizzled, stone-faced old veteran, you're greeted by a cow-eyed, 12kg pike mounted on a wall near the entrance – he's an ugly mother. Everything else here, however, is lovely. Candles glow softly and windows overlook the river below.
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TJ's Angling Centre
You can rent fishing tackle for €15 per day and catch your limit in free advice. It also organises fishing trips, although you can hook trout and pike right here in town.
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Bourke's the Galley
The sign at this sparkling cafe across from the church reads: Be warm, be welcome, be at home. Of course, home never had such cupcakes. Attached to a deli, Bourke's offers rich coffees, alluring baked goods and fresh light meals you can enjoy on a small terrace.
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Ponte Vecchio
Get picnic goods all week long at the Italian-flavoured deli Ponte Vecchio, which makes darn good sandwiches and sells bottles of wine ready to be uncorked.
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An Cupán Caifé
This cottagelike restaurant has a Continental atmosphere and a daily menu of steaks and fish. Presentation is slightly formal and the specials are a draw. A three-course Sunday lunch is €20. The wine list is the best in the area.
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Farmers Market
The twin towns have their farmers market on the islet off the bridge on the Killaloe side.
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Wooden Spoon
In a narrow passage just up from the waterfront, this cafe and bakery offers up Med-flavoured fair so flavourful that on balmy days you might think you're near the Riviera. Local chef-done-good Laura Kilkenny also has trad faves such as fresh soda bread, all made with local ingredients and mostly sourced locally.
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Traditional Irish Night
Traditional Irish nights are held in a corn barn in the folk park. Lots of red-haired (real or fake, it's clearly a big help in securing employment) servers dish up trad music, dancing, Irish stew, apple pie and soda bread. There's nontraditional wine as well, which may put you in the mood for the singalong. Book online or by phone.
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Medieval Banquet
If you skip the high-jinks in the corn barn, you may opt for a medieval banquet, replete with harp-playing maidens, court jesters and food with a medieval motif (lots of meaty items, but somehow we think the real stuff would empty the place right out). It's all washed down with mead – a kind of honey wine. The banquets are very popular with groups, so it's advisable for independent travellers to book well ahead.
The banquets at Knappogue Castle and Dunguaire Castle (in Galway) are similar but more sedate.
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Lakeside Holiday Park
Besides lakeside camping, this private park rents out a range of watercraft including kayaks and rowboats. The placid waters of Lough Derg are ideal for a day exploring the shore.
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Bunratty Castle & Folk Park
Square and hulking Bunratty Castle is only the latest of several constructions to occupy its location beside the River Ratty. Vikings founded a settlement here in the 10th century, and other occupants included the Norman Thomas de Clare in the 1270s. The present structure was put up in the early 1400s by the energetic MacNamara family, falling shortly thereafter to the O'Briens, kings of Thomond, in whose possession it remained until the 17th century.
Fully restored, the castle is loaded with 14th- to 17th-century furniture, paintings and wall hangings.
The folk park adjoins the castle. It is a reconstructed traditional Irish village with cottages, a forge and working blac…
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Brian Ború Heritage Centre
Named for the local boy who made good as the king who, according to the political spinmeisters of his time, both unified Ireland and freed it from the Viking scourge. The centre does much to celebrate the legends and has good displays about the nautical heritage of this patchwork of lakes and rivers.
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